Originally Posted by greger
It is interesting how one person can missunderstand somehting and a thread has an unnecessary reaction.
In the past when there were lots of tailors the "drape" was made by many. And the varations were many. The soft unpadded shoulder that the front part goes over the shoulder, as some do, is in some ways like padded shoulders, because it has the extra canvas going over the shoulder, which is another layer like pads. Pads are perhaps softer, by nature, than canvas? If the canvas goes over, isn't that structure? There are all kinds of methods to debate about with pros and cons going many ways.
Like the fronts of Mahon's coats. Not sure what to think about the backs. He makes a unique product.
Technically any "tailored" garment is going to have "structure". Drape is a kind of structure, not anti-structure. If you look at Jefferyd's blog you will see in one of Steed's suits the canvas goes right to the armhole, yet still has drape. It seems that this is a common misconception.
It has been really hard to find a good tailor here in New York, whenever I would say "drape", or "soft" they always interpreted it as unlined, or uncanvassed. I would
and walk out.