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The Berluti shoe thread - Page 21

post #301 of 306
Quote:
Originally Posted by chogall View Post

Pump stitch is not blind welted; it's Blake stitch done by hand.
This is not quite correct. The traditional (English) pump stitch doesn't have a welt, that is true. However, as opposed to a Blake stitch, which goes vertically through the insole and into the interior of the shoe, the pump stitch goes through holes made parallel to the surface of the insole. Definitely not a stitch many 'makers' still are good at doing. I believe Bengal bought a second-hand pair of Lobb St James pumps, and the soles were just glued on, no pump stitch used. There is a fellow up in Scotland who is the specialist in this, but I know at least one other maker (in addition to James Ducker) who can do this stitch.
post #302 of 306
Here are a few pictures (posted previously) which show the the pump-stitch.Both insole and outsole are perforated with the awl to half thickness and the stitching meanders in and out of a tunnel without being visible on either sole:








Apart from the old boy in Edinburgh who specializes in pump-stitch, there a few more shoemakers who can do it, but they do it so rarely that they, inevitably, will be out of their comfort zone.
post #303 of 306
Quote:
Originally Posted by chogall View Post

Pump stitch is not blind welted; it's Blake stitch done by hand.

Blake stitch done by hand is properly a "channel stitch."

I may have contributed to the confusion due to a misunderstanding/misreading of Garsault's 1767 (when pumps were perhaps more common) Art du Cordonnier where he refers, IIRC, to a "channel pump stitch."
post #304 of 306
So a pump stitch in essence is a tunnel stitch? If that is the case the strength of the shoe will be determined by how we maintain the sole/insole?
Also I guess there is not possibility to resole in a such a shoe
post #305 of 306
Quote:
Originally Posted by asturiano View Post

So a pump stitch in essence is a tunnel stitch? If that is the case the strength of the shoe will be determined by how we maintain the sole/insole?
Also I guess there is not possibility to resole in a such a shoe

Well, a pump stitch is used for light duty shoes that are to be worn around the house and, perhaps, to the occasional formal occasion (depending on the style). They are not designed for heavy use in walking outdoors, etc., so wear should be minimal. Perhaps the heaviest wear would come from dancing! If the shoe is properly made, then the stitches are protected by the outsole and insole (it is at the interface where the two meet), so absent heavy wear or abuse there should be no need for special treatment of the insole and outsole. Note that there are two ends to the thread, so that the two ends are alternatingly weaving in/out of the insole and outsole.

The shoe should be able to be resoled -- a new outsole would be put on in the exact same manner as the original. I should think you would need the original last to do this in a quality way. Also, someone who knows how to do it, which is becoming rarer by the year.
post #306 of 306
berluti by DELOS - https://instagram.com/patrickmtpo/
(not mine)
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