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Gaziano & Girling Deco Range 2010 - Page 14

post #196 of 303
Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzl View Post
fade them in the californian sun. comes for free - no upcharge and structural damage.

You are right that fading them in the cali sun will not cause structural damage...but the wait period is perhaps 5 years

Its the bleaching chemicals that dramatically speeds up the fading process and might cause the structural damage
post #197 of 303
Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael Ay329 View Post
Luk-cha, do you have more photos of the top pic...I can't tell if this is a side gussetted shoe or not?


IT is a side gusset shoe...the one pictured in front to the left in the pitti both picture earlier.
post #198 of 303
Since it is mentioned about bleaching, here is a photo of a pair of bleached boots closed by a free lancing closer in London, I don't know for which of the West End shops these are made. This method works on all aniline dyed chrome tanned leather such as box calf. The best is of course to bleach before closing becasue then the tread will not be weakend of the bleaching stuff. I have not tried it on old shoes but I think it will work. However, it is a mess so don't forget rubber gloves!
LL
post #199 of 303
Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael Ay329 View Post
Luk-cha, do you have more photos of the top pic...I can't tell if this is a side gussetted shoe or not?

Its' a side gusset
post #200 of 303
Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael Ay329 View Post
Luk-cha, do you have more photos of the top pic...I can't tell if this is a side gussetted shoe or not?

Quote:
Originally Posted by cdmoore1855 View Post
Its' a side gusset

post #201 of 303
Just a couple of thoughts from someone who owns 24 pairs of Gaziano and Girling MTO shoes.

The name "Deco" is apt for this range - they do remind me of shoes from the Art Deco period. They look exquisite and I am sure are very very well made shoes.

However, whilst I like them I cannot see myself wearing them and so won't be buying a pair.

I had a long chat with Dean Girling about what you American guys call "Gemming" ( Ribbing in the UK). He promised me that the process of gluing a canvas rib to the insole and sewing the welt to that provides just as strong an attachement as sewing to a rib cut from the insole. I do not wish to open this discussion again, merely report on a conversation with a Master Shoemaker. He told me the insole needs replacing just as many times in a bespoke shoe as in a ready to wear shoe,. He also assured me that a RTW shoe lasts just as long as a bespoke shoe. Finally he told me that if shoes were hand welted they'd cost so much that no one would think they were worth it and might as well go bespoke. I know, I know, Cliff Roberts etc etc but he's not yet set up a factory as far as I know, and I know and know factories, the devil , satan inspired manufacturing, blah blah. But if you want to make a serious living out of shoemaking I guess you've either got to have a good bespoke clientele or own a factory.

I know EG TD are gemmed and I know JLP Prestige are too, I would think Anthony Cleverley are too or they'd cost more.

Deco - works of art but as shoes to wear? - yes, for a very particular kind of customer I suspect.
post #202 of 303
Quote:
Originally Posted by Leather man View Post
Just a couple of thoughts

...merely report on a conversation with a Master Shoemaker. He told me the insole needs replacing just as many times in a bespoke shoe as in a ready to wear shoe. He also assured me that a RTW shoe lasts just as long as a bespoke shoe.

what time slot did he prospect?

that's quite an assumption, taking in account that the material is used for bespoke is of higher quality.

iirc, you don't own any bespoke shoes, right?
post #203 of 303
Quote:
Originally Posted by Leather man View Post
Just a couple of thoughts from someone who owns 24 pairs of Gaziano and Girling MTO shoes.

The name "Deco" is apt for this range - they do remind me of shoes from the Art Deco period. They look exquisite and I am sure are very very well made shoes.

However, whilst I like them I cannot see myself wearing them and so won't be buying a pair.

I had a long chat with Dean Girling about what you American guys call "Gemming" ( Ribbing in the UK). He promised me that the process of gluing a canvas rib to the insole and sewing the welt to that provides just as strong an attachement as sewing to a rib cut from the insole. I do not wish to open this discussion again, merely report on a conversation with a Master Shoemaker. He told me the insole needs replacing just as many times in a bespoke shoe as in a ready to wear shoe,. He also assured me that a RTW shoe lasts just as long as a bespoke shoe. Finally he told me that if shoes were hand welted they'd cost so much that no one would think they were worth it and might as well go bespoke. I know, I know, Cliff Roberts etc etc but he's not yet set up a factory as far as I know, and I know and know factories, the devil , satan inspired manufacturing, blah blah. But if you want to make a serious living out of shoemaking I guess you've either got to have a good bespoke clientele or own a factory.

I know EG TD are gemmed and I know JLP Prestige are too, I would think Anthony Cleverley are too or they'd cost more.

Deco - works of art but as shoes to wear? - yes, for a very particular kind of customer I suspect.

Sounds like buyer's remorse.
post #204 of 303
Fritzl and Patrick - go and read my post - I don't think you have yet. I am reporting to you what Dean Girling said!
post #205 of 303
I don't think I will get a pair to wear, maybe a pair just so I have a pair. They look... emaciated. It is a shame too I was really looking forward to them.
post #206 of 303
Quote:
Originally Posted by Leather man View Post
Just a couple of thoughts from someone who owns 24 pairs of Gaziano and Girling MTO shoes.

The name "Deco" is apt for this range - they do remind me of shoes from the Art Deco period. They look exquisite and I am sure are very very well made shoes.

However, whilst I like them I cannot see myself wearing them and so won't be buying a pair.

I had a long chat with Dean Girling about what you American guys call "Gemming" ( Ribbing in the UK). He promised me that the process of gluing a canvas rib to the insole and sewing the welt to that provides just as strong an attachement as sewing to a rib cut from the insole. I do not wish to open this discussion again, merely report on a conversation with a Master Shoemaker. He told me the insole needs replacing just as many times in a bespoke shoe as in a ready to wear shoe,. He also assured me that a RTW shoe lasts just as long as a bespoke shoe. Finally he told me that if shoes were hand welted they'd cost so much that no one would think they were worth it and might as well go bespoke. I know, I know, Cliff Roberts etc etc but he's not yet set up a factory as far as I know, and I know and know factories, the devil , satan inspired manufacturing, blah blah. But if you want to make a serious living out of shoemaking I guess you've either got to have a good bespoke clientele or own a factory.

I know EG TD are gemmed and I know JLP Prestige are too, I would think Anthony Cleverley are too or they'd cost more.

Deco - works of art but as shoes to wear? - yes, for a very particular kind of customer I suspect.

I hope this can now silence those who keep harping on about the downsides to gemming. If as Dean has said its sewn to the canvas rather than glued, I agree that it should make little difference to the structural integrity of the shoe.
post #207 of 303
Thread Starter 
Are these shoes that much longer than Corthay's 001 last and GC's ACs?
post #208 of 303
Quote:
Originally Posted by cdmoore1855 View Post
I hope this can now silence those who keep harping on about the downsides to gemming. If as Dean has said its sewn to the canvas rather than glued, I agree that it should make little difference to the structural integrity of the shoe.

I think cdmoore owns G&G. At least he sounds likes it.
post #209 of 303
Quote:
Originally Posted by jon5986 View Post
I think cdmoore owns G&G. At least he sounds likes it.

i think you have seen the ones he owns, but dont you own some too?
post #210 of 303
Quote:
Originally Posted by jon5986 View Post
I think cdmoore owns G&G. At least he sounds likes it.

Jon, If I did I would own more than 6 pairs of bespokes for sure.

Maybe one day I can be the Victor Kiam of the shoe world
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