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Best Suit Makers/Designers for Muscular Build

post #1 of 43
Thread Starter 
OK, I have searched this forum for an answer to this question, and haven't seen any conclusive advice as to which makers (e.g. Canali, Caruso, Isaia, etc.) or designers (RLBL or RLPL, Gucci) etc. make suits that are the best fit OTR for people with muscular (not fat) builds and shoulders that are broad and legs that are thick in proportion to the rest of their bodies, such that OTR suits with jackets that fit at the shoulders invariably feature jackets and pants that are too long, jackets that are too big around the waist, pant waists that are too large, and rises that are too big.

In searching this forum, I found discussions about types of shoulders (Neapolitan, unstructured, etc.) and going MTM, and something about how Schwarzenegger used to always wear Armani before he went bespoke, but not much about which brands + models to start with before going in for alterations.

FYI I am 5'9'', 180 lbs., with a 42' chest and a 34' waist. Not quite a bodybuilder's build, but muscular (more like a wrestler).

I would like to get a Thick as Thieves suit made, but fear that my build is too thick to look good in what seems to be a "skinny guy's" suit. It seems that the latest looks all feature "slim"....

post #2 of 43
I just bought an Armani in 42, and I have a 32" waist. The pants needed some work, that's for sure, but the jacket - not so much. It fit pretty well OTR. It's being tailored right now, so I could send you some pics when it's done, if you like.

I would never buy a suit online if you have a unique build, but that's just me.
post #3 of 43
I can't imagine the governor wore OTR long after puberty. You've got an 8inch drop he was into the teens I bet. I've said this before. Check the threads that people whine about the shoulders beign too wide on a jacket. If they find the shoulders too wide you might be happy with them. I'm not sure what you mean by pants too long. All pants need to be hemmed. At 5'9 you're Italian average at worst. So unless you're torso is short and your legs long the rise and button points are what the maker intended. You can always try a short jacket if you want to but at your height you shouldn't need to.
post #4 of 43
Anything off the rack needs to be tailored, period.

That said, some suits are better for your type of build. Look at Canali and Hickey Freeman, specifically. (I think, but am not sure, that Burberry suits are rebranded Hickey Freeman and may have the same cut.)

Both brands are fuller in the chest and thighs. You will, however, need to have them taken in, perhaps significantly, at the waist. That's pretty standard procedure, though.

Both suits can be expensive, but you can often find them at Nordstrom Rack for a fraction of the price. (Hope you have that store in your area.)

If you're feeling risky, you can order them from BlueFly.com, too.

Good luck and let me know how this works out.
post #5 of 43
I know everyone hates this brand on here, but Hugo Boss is actually a good choice for those with athletic builds.
post #6 of 43
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sazerac View Post
Anything off the rack needs to be tailored, period.
.

He's only drop 8.

I bet a Zegna Milano will fit him just fine off the rack. The problem might be if he is between sizes. But drop 8 and his height I bet all he'll need is the sleeves fixed.

Also at his height how much can you nip the waist without causing other problems?
post #7 of 43
True enough. But for myself, with a nearly identical chest:waist ratio, I've always had to have suit jackets taken in fairly significantly. I'm partial to the sleek look of Zegna, though, and don't have the "problem" of muscular shoulders or chest -- just a ginormous rib cage.
post #8 of 43
I agree with those suggesting Zegna. At 5'9/175, I am a 42" coat and 32" waist, and I just purchased a Zegna (52R) -- Roma cut -- for my wedding suit. I tried the Zegna Milano, but the cut is a bit too aggressive for my arms; the high, narrow arm holes and shoulders were a bit uncomfortable for my athletic build. I was able to find a Roma cut suit that I really like and after a little waist suppression and a 1/4" shortening of the coat, it is pretty perfect. I have had the pants taken in a tiny bit in the waist and legs as well. I have challenging time finding suits, but I am sold on the Roma cut.
post #9 of 43
I've had good luck with barbera sartoriale and caruso sp.
post #10 of 43
Try custom MTM, cheaper than bespoke but it'll fit better than OTR
post #11 of 43
Quote:
Originally Posted by Snidely Whiplash View Post
OK, I have searched this forum for an answer to this question, and haven't seen any conclusive advice as to which makers (e.g. Canali, Caruso, Isaia, etc.) or designers (RLBL or RLPL, Gucci) etc. make suits that are the best fit OTR for people with muscular (not fat) builds and shoulders that are broad and legs that are thick in proportion to the rest of their bodies, such that OTR suits with jackets that fit at the shoulders invariably feature jackets and pants that are too long, jackets that are too big around the waist, pant waists that are too large, and rises that are too big.

In searching this forum, I found discussions about types of shoulders (Neapolitan, unstructured, etc.) and going MTM, and something about how Schwarzenegger used to always wear Armani before he went bespoke, but not much about which brands + models to start with before going in for alterations.

FYI I am 5'9'', 180 lbs., with a 42' chest and a 34' waist. Not quite a bodybuilder's build, but muscular (more like a wrestler).

I would like to get a Thick as Thieves suit made, but fear that my build is too thick to look good in what seems to be a "skinny guy's" suit. It seems that the latest looks all feature "slim"....


Try Luigi Bianchi Mantova Sartoriale. I wish I had your problem, but my brother who is 44 Chest 34W swears by them. Problem is finding them.
post #12 of 43
post #13 of 43
Alexandre of Savile Row suits fit me pretty well, just had to take the waist in and shorten the trousers. I'm 5'10" and 195 pounds with a 34 inch waist, so pretty similar size to the OP. Zara jackets used to fit about two years ago but now the largest size they have here (56) is a bit too small. The trousers, though, are way too slim.
post #14 of 43
Quote:
Originally Posted by zjpj83 View Post

I'm sure those guys look awesome with their clothes off, but with their clothes on ... god-awful. No matter how you tailor that, you look just bizarre.

I wonder if there's an inherent trade-off here; beyond a certain point, you sacrifice how you look in suits for the muscles?
post #15 of 43
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bradford View Post
I know everyone hates this brand on here, but Hugo Boss is actually a good choice for those with athletic builds.

Agreed, although I think a lot of it depends on your age. The HB fit/style is great for anyone in their 20s that isn't in a conservative profession. Quite frankly, most of the recommendations on here are perfect for a photoshoot but are often too eccentric for the average person/situation.
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