Hong Kong Tailoring Style: a guest series on ASW

tchoy · Oct 4, 2010

Originally Posted by Redwoood

tchoy,
I think Yao did a better job than Chan. The sleeves look cleaner, Chan's has some serious torquing going on. Also buttoning point on Chan looks a tad too high.
The only thing I like better about the Chan are the slightly more rounded off quarters.

The Yao has some slight rumpling going on on the right chest and waist. Do you have a lower right shoulder by any chance?

it's not fair comparison really. The Yao is in a 16oz Fox flannel while the Chan is a super110 VBC. The Yao suit just drapes much better. In motion the torquing you mention is not really noticeable.

Good pick up on the lower right shoulders, it really test the tailors during the fitting stages. To be fair, I have put on some weight since I had the suits made hence the rumpling on the chest of the Yao.

There are minor issues with both suits but I guess bespoke is never perfect.

Slewfoot · Oct 4, 2010

Originally Posted by tchoy

it's not fair comparison really. The Yao is in a 16oz Fox flannel while the Chan is a super110 VBC. The Yao suit just drapes much better. In motion the torquing you mention is not really noticeable.

Good pick up on the lower right shoulders, it really test the tailors during the fitting stages. To be fair, I have put on some weight since I had the suits made hence the rumpling on the chest of the Yao.

There are minor issues with both suits but I guess bespoke is never perfect.

Wait. Which suit is which? On my monitor the suits are on top of each other, not left and right. Regardless, they are both nice, but I prefer the lighter gray one. It seems smoother and more balanced.

TheDarkKnight · Oct 4, 2010

Originally Posted by tchoy

I had used Gordon Yao to make me a suit last time I was in Hong Kong, overall it was a pleasant experience. A few minor issues but for a first time it turn out not too bad. The fabric was a Fox Flannel which I supply. Normally I use WW Chan when I am in Hong Kong. Since Chan doesn't do CMT I decided to try out Yao on this trip. On the right is WW Chan in light weight VBC wool just for comparison.

Both of these look great.

tchoy · Oct 4, 2010

Sorry for the confusion David, on my monitor they are side by side. The lighter plaid suit is Gordon Yao.
Glad you like both suit. I prefer wearing the Chan myself. The GY suit has a much more structure than the Chan. I gave both tailors the same brief, lighter canvassed, minimal padding on the shoulders and high arm holes. I feel Patrick from Chan fulfilled my brief more so than Yao.

lee_44106 · Oct 4, 2010

From today's post about WW Chan.

"Chan has a higher default for its lapel notch than the other houses and takes the most cues from Italian and British counterparts. The silhouette is cut close at the waist with a wasp-like nip. The chest is somewhat swelled. The shoulders, which want for a natural line, are lightly padded and come standard with an oddly clean "spalla camicia." This shoulder treatment, where the arm is "tucked" under the scye at the shoulder seam, found its way into the house style approximately a year and a half ago. The fullness in the shoulder tapers to a particularly narrow arm that is almost tubular from elbow to wrist. The trousers sit just below the natural waist and take a slight taper in the leg."

WHAT?

I thought this is a proprietary Italian thing that nobody can replicate except the dedicate hands of the Neopolitans?

Slewfoot · Oct 4, 2010

tchoy - thanks!

lee - Chan can do a spalla camicia type shoulder. Can they do it as well as Neopolitans? I'm sure not, but it seems like a good impression. I'll try and post photos of my two jackets that I've had made in this shirtsleeve style. I don't believe it's standard though.

alebrady · Oct 4, 2010

my experience with chan suggests they are very, very open to trying/excuting new things at the customer request. my issue with them has always been that they do not seem to have an innate sense of balance and proportion - so you end up with things such as less than ideal buttoning points, skirt imbalance, etc.

if one is expert enough to guide them on these aspects (or adhere closely to their default, which i think they do execute well) then it could be great - but, ultimately, i just wanted to be able to trust my tailor with these aspects...and it's absence was something that undermined the value proposition of chan for me

tchoy · Oct 4, 2010

Originally Posted by lee_44106

From today's post about WW Chan.

"Chan has a higher default for its lapel notch than the other houses and takes the most cues from Italian and British counterparts. The silhouette is cut close at the waist with a wasp-like nip. The chest is somewhat swelled. The shoulders, which want for a natural line, are lightly padded and come standard with an oddly clean "spalla camicia." This shoulder treatment, where the arm is "tucked" under the scye at the shoulder seam, found its way into the house style approximately a year and a half ago. The fullness in the shoulder tapers to a particularly narrow arm that is almost tubular from elbow to wrist. The trousers sit just below the natural waist and take a slight taper in the leg."

WHAT?

I thought this is a proprietary Italian thing that nobody can replicate except the dedicate hands of the Neopolitans?

I think what Chan does is there interpertation of spalla camicia, they call it natural shoulders. If you really want the genuine article one must travel to Naples to acheive that.
Here are some images of Chan's take. Let me know what you all think?

dragon8 · Oct 4, 2010

Originally Posted by Slewfoot

tchoy - thanks!

lee - Chan can do a spalla camicia type shoulder. Can they do it as well as Neopolitans? I'm sure not, but it seems like a good impression. I'll try and post photos of my two jackets that I've had made in this shirtsleeve style. I don't believe it's standard though.

Chan , I believe does a pretty nice spalla camicia. Yao does not nor does he say he can.

Slewfoot · Oct 4, 2010

Here are photos of my Chan jackets that have natural, shirtsleeve style shoulders. I never used the term spalla camicia with Patrick. I feel they came out nice enough. Are they perfect? Not really sure what that even means.

tchoy · Oct 4, 2010

Very nice indeed David. I like the very subtle waterfall effect.

dragon8 · Oct 4, 2010

Originally Posted by tchoy

Very nice indeed David. I like the very subtle waterfall effect.

+1. Very nice indeed.

Slewfoot · Oct 4, 2010

Thanks guys!

tchoy - I like yours as well. I feel like it has a bit more of a classic vibe to it.

emptym · Oct 5, 2010

Originally Posted by Slewfoot

Very nice. My coat from them looks like this.

Svenn · Oct 5, 2010

While I agree Chan's soft shoulders look near to A&S's or the Neapolitan's on the outside, I am curious if it has the same comfort level as the latter... I wonder if the handsewn armsyce has elasticity, the sleevehead's larger circumference was ironed into the armsyce, the armhole is well fitted, AND there is some drape in the rear of the arm to allow for more flexibility. From what I've read, all of those things take a lot of extra time, and are very consequential on fit, espeically when raising the arms.... but you might not be able to notice them on the outside.

Hong Kong Tailoring Style: a guest series on ASW

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