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Fused vs canvas debate - Page 4

post #46 of 71
Ok.. This is my final post on this thread. Yep. I went through rubbing technique on all of my BOSS suits, and they are fused. do this: 1. Pinch bottom front part of jacket or chest area with your left hand (make sure you are holding EXTERIOR FABRIC=WOOL). 2. Pinch ANY part of sleeve exterior fabric with right hand. 3. Now Rub each of them independently. If you feel ANY difference in fabric thickness and feel while pinching and rubbing that's because the jacket's front fabric(reverse side) is coated with 'rubberish' content. If the fabric is fused, while rubbing, you will FEEL that rubbing feels like rubbing 2 rubber band. THEREFORE, FUSING = Reverse side of exterior fabric is coated with rubberish matterial. THERE IT IS BOYS...
post #47 of 71
Yep.
post #48 of 71
Thread Starter 
Thanks everyone for the clarification. But I'm still mixed up with one issue: is there a differentiation between the canvas procedure (stitching the seams) and the canvas material (the third layer)? Or am I misinterpreting things? As an example, on this thread, the term half-canvassed and half-fused are used interchangeably. But it seems to me that there is no such thing as a half-fused suit (seams are either 100% stitched or 100% glued). In this case, shouldn't the half-canvassed suit refer to the "canvas material" and not the "canvas procedure"? ie: third layer (interlining) is in some part of the jacket (chest area), but not in others (bottom part).
post #49 of 71
Rudder, I think i have heard the terminology. I am going to take a guess on this one. What we know for sure is that Fused means that the revsered side of wool is covered with synthtic material. To my short experience with suits, whether the suit is fused or not, all has chest padding piece. This padding on fused suit MAY NOT be considered as canvas. Some chest paddings are thicker than others. But when I felt canvas in some non-fused-suits, the thickness of the canvas was thinner than than the chest paddings in fused suits. For definete answer, I would talk to master tailor at Rego, or Holt. I talked Mr. Rego as I was doing Fitter(fitting machine) at HOLT. I asked Mr.Rego (master tailor) that I want to get fully canvased suit. Rego said that Armani looked perfect on me and why would I want to change. I told him I really want to experience fully canvased suits and he said, Armani's fusing is very soft and supiror, it looks and performs BETTER than most fully canvased suits. He also said that the suit won't puccker nor bubble even after many dry cleans given that skillful cleaner is used. I told him I would get Zegna or Canali MTM for next suit and he said I could if I wanted to .. but it would not look that good on me he said... Mortal of the story? Do not be so caught up with canvasing. Find the fit that you look good in and stick with it.
post #50 of 71
I'm sorry, but I have trouble reconciling "fusing" with anything "soft and superior".
post #51 of 71
Quote:
Rudder, I think i have heard the terminology.  I am going to take a guess on this one.   What we know for sure is that Fused means that the revsered side of wool is covered with synthtic material. To my short experience with suits, whether the suit is fused or not, all has chest padding piece. This padding on fused suit MAY NOT be considered as canvas.  Some chest paddings are thicker than others.  But when I felt canvas in some non-fused-suits, the thickness of the canvas was thinner than than the chest paddings in fused suits.   For definete answer, I would talk to master tailor at Rego, or Holt.  I talked Mr. Rego as I was doing Fitter(fitting machine) at HOLT.   I asked Mr.Rego (master tailor) that I want to get fully canvased suit.   Rego said that Armani looked perfect on me and why would I want to change. I told him I really want to experience fully canvased suits and he said, Armani's fusing is very soft and supiror, it looks and performs BETTER than most fully canvased suits.  He also said that the suit won't puccker nor bubble even after many dry cleans given that skillful cleaner is used. I told him I would get Zegna or Canali MTM for next suit and he said I could if I wanted to .. but it would not look that good on me he said...   Mortal of the story?  Do not be so caught up with canvasing.  Find the fit that you look good in and stick with it.
I am not sure which Mr. Rego that you're talking about (some tailor at Holt or the owner of Rego store in the Exchange Tower), but I definitely am not aware that Rego carries Armani. If he really does, ask him what makes a Brioni a Brioni and how it differs from Armani Collezioni. Rudder, half canvassed / half fused refers to a suit that has its chest area with sewn interlining (ie. floating canvas) and the lower part with a fused layer; examine Alexander McQueen and Versace Classic (V2) for some examples. Have some chat with some tailors as well and see if he has some unfinished suits that you could look at.
post #52 of 71
FCS: Mr. Rego the onwer of Rego store was present at Holt. He was helping other tailor and sales personal with his new invention. Rego does not carry Armani. Of course he too will say Brioni is better suit than Armani. I too expect to be a better suit for PEOPLE WHO FIT good in it considering that Brioni starts with ~ $4000 MTM. I work in downtown and I see a lot of men wearing suit everyday. But I only see FEW men wearing suit that fits well.
post #53 of 71
I see his fitting machine thing advertised on his store; how does it work, btw?
post #54 of 71
FCS: It's consisted with 2 parts: measuring device (moving rulers) and software. You step on the machine (made of bunch of rulers which measure you 41 measurements in total.) As they measure you, they scan the measurment with bar code reader and save data onto the database. Here is handy part, once your measurements are in, you can select a design label .. say Canali for example, the software will suggest size of the suit and the alteration range. This is handy tool if you trust machine I personally like to get measured every time I do suits.. I think that's the part of fun.
post #55 of 71
Thread Starter 
Milano/FCS - Thanks, I'm no longer con-fused I went through the fitter as well on Saturday. The technology looks promising. ------- I guess there's nothing more to add on this thread, so thanks everyone for your help and patience.
post #56 of 71
Sorry to dig up an old thread but I haven't really been around the board since this one was under discussion.. Thanks for all the info. I appreciate it. I went through and checked, my Hugo Boss suit is thick/fused, and my Jil Sander suit is full canvased. I will never be confused again.
post #57 of 71
My friend has a wonderful suit that is in fact fused. I think it looks terrific, because the suit was made of lightweight fabric: the fusing sculpted the suit very well, with not a wrinkle or pucker in sight.
post #58 of 71
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rudder View Post
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post #59 of 71
holy shit. somebody revived a 2004 thread. that's some serious necroposting here.
post #60 of 71
Quote:
Originally Posted by NoVaguy View Post
holy shit. somebody revived a 2004 thread. that's some serious necroposting here.

My thoughts exactly!
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