Originally Posted by pejsek
I don't mean to be strident, but this is ridiculous. Bespoke is not a magic incantation (okay, well maybe it is but only in a far more roundabout way). For those without unusual fit issues, high quality rtw nearly always delivers greater style than entry level bespoke. I've seen some truly wonderful things from Henry Poole, yet I've also seen some authentic mediocrities from that very same legend of tailoring. More than anything else, bespoke is the product of a relation between tailor and client. It would be surprising if things were to work out perfectly from the beginning (not that it doesn't happen from time to time). And that's just the conversation part. From the business angle, if you are going to get serious attention and the services of the best cutters, sewers, etc. the tailor must be convinced that you are in this for the long haul, that they can count on you to order several things from them every year for many years to come. It's not as simple as just going in, getting measured up, and then coming back for a couple of fittings. Over time you will come to know what you want and you will have a relationship with the tailor that can translate that into clothing. JLibourel appears to have done this with Chan. That's the magic part. But short of that, high quality rtw will give you harmonious styling and construction that you will be free to judge and take or leave as you wish. It's a far less costly and risky proposition (especially when you may not be sure about what features you want and how those may fit together).
First and foremost, I will assume this is directed at me since my post has been quoted. Secondly, my reasoning for wanting bespoke, could I afford it, comes from my Grandfather. My Grandfather did extremely well in business during his day. He developed a relationship with Poole and Co., and whilst his suits have either been donated to charity or somehow gone amiss over the years (his death occurred before I was born), the pictures of him I have seen over the years are extremely elegant. It was always said never wore anything but the finest in bespoke suitings, and in his opinion Poole and Co. possessed what he was looking for. He'd often take 2-3 trips a year to London just so that he could take a look at the latest fabric, etc. He favored the style of Poole and Co. and I figure I'd be half as lucky to have a bespoke suit from Poole and Co. to fit as well as it did on him considering our similarity in stature. And this is why I'd want my bespoke suit to come from Poole and Co.
I am well aware of the relationship that going bespoke entails, and when I am financially able, I look forward to forming a relationship with a great master of tailoring; be it Poole and Co. or another firm, but I do know my entrance into the bespoke world will be with them out of respect for my Grandfather. It has been told to me that he wished his grandchildren to carry on in the tradition of dressing well, as he was taught and his father before his. I strive to meet his wishes.
That said, I don't think it's fair to say that anyone who wishes to go bespoke should not if they're looking for one suit. The odds are high that one bespoke purchase will spur subsequent bespoke purchases in the years to come, and any good bespoke tailor knows this and knows this well; how else do you explain that bespoke tailoring has not died? Bespoke suiting entails complete customisation of one's suits, from the fabric to the cut and style, and any other options one can think of.
I do disagree though, that an entry-level bespoke suit is going to be less than a RTW suit. Even the cheapest bespoke suit is going to outdo the RTW suit any day, and even though I do not have first hand experience, I know many who have. When it comes down to it, bespoke is always the best option; who doesn't want something that fits exactly to their body?
Originally Posted by epa
I am not sure that very expensive clothes are the right thing for somebody starting a professional career. Won't it look like your dad paid for it? Isn't there a risk that your colleagues may look at you as some kind of "daddy's spoiled son"?
I think that it can, at least sometimes, be better to start with clothes in a price class in line with the salary. Also, this means that while your career is progressing, you will be able to gratify yourself by buying better and better clothes. If you start with the best right from the beginning, you will not have the pleasure of feeling that your first Brioni is the fruit of hard and successful work.
I think it depends on the job really. On the flip side, it could show the potential employer that you are a diligent saver and that you take yourself very seriously, as well as showing a level of dedication.