I have a pair of Stow's size 81/2 (my US size is 91/2-10) - they fit perfectly
I just got a pair of special Bowoods from Selfridges - sized down to an 8 - not that thrilled as too much heel slippage. The 4444 is a FULL fitting last!
How are oxfords on the 4497 last - do they fit the same as Stow boots? For that matter are there any oxfords made on the 4497 or are they all custom mto's?
By oxford I mean any lace up shoe (I designed shoes for 25 years).
A blucher I refer to as a lace up like most of Trickers oxfords where as a Bal (or Balmoral) has a "V" type closure.
Since the 4444 is a full fitting last - and I have a normal American "D" width (not "E" slightly larger yet not classified as a "W") when I lace up the Bowoods I find that the "facings" (as Richard at Shoe Healer refers to them on his website) always touch each other. The 4444, for my foot, is simply too large and high on the instep.
The issue of heel slippage is further compounded by the fact that Trickers seems to seldom use a non slip sueded heel counter - there is smooth calf leather in the counter - something which also contributes to heel slippage.
The Woodstock and Kendal do not appeal to me - would love to see any of the classic lace ups (Bourton Wing Tip Oxford or Eaton Cap Toe Oxford) in the more narrow fitting 4497 last.
Is there something wrong with the boots from Sierra Trading Post?
I think that the connotation of associating Oxford with a Bal, at least here in America, is most likely due to the proliferation of one of the most famous shoes throughout the years - the JAZZ OXFORD (which is a bal). This is a style which comes in and out of vogue every few years (it was in a few years ago for teens and young women (my 15 year olds purchased several pairs)).
For mens shoes in America the Bal has always been more popular than the Blucher while I believe that in England it has been the opposite.
I currently have three pairs of Trickers :
a pair of Stows in waxy commander natural double leather sole 81/2
a Kurt Geiger "Stow" limited edition from last winter c shade with a grain motorcycle patch on the toe and side grain quarters / commando sole (Richard informed me that this Stow was not made on a 4497 but rather a special last made for the Italian market only offered in whole sizes (I took an 8)
my most recent pair bought last month - another Kurt Geiger special (done with the Selfridges label) a Bowood wing tip with grain in the center and a black patent leather heel counter. It is this last shoe - on the 4444 last - which fits "full" - even though I sized down to an 8.
In summary I think that I will most likely be relegated to 4497 lasts - most likely boots. I participated in my first forum mto - the lollipop red Eaton done on the 4497 last. I also communicated with Richard and was somewhat convincing to get him to do the Monkey Boot - which I will also take.
I would love a classic Bourton in Acorn however - alas - if it fits like my Bowood (same last) I am sure I will not be that happy with the fit.