I completely agree with Horace. I now have two pea coats, both old surplus, and although slightly different they are both much better than anything I have seen from a designer or even current issue surplus. The current coats have four working buttons on the front, not including the one that should be under the collar. The wool is so soft and fluffy it should be ashamed of itself, and the quilted lining betrays the shamefulness of the wool's effectiveness. In contrast, the old coats have plain acetate lining, but much thicker, heavier, and tighter wool. One of mine (my favorite)has wool that's so tightly woven it has a sheen to it, and has three (well, six) working body buttons with six buttonholes plus the two under the collar. The other, which I got yesterday, has slightly softer but still heavy wool, a differently shaped collar (wider and with more of a notch in the lapel), higher button stance, and only two buttonholes in one lapel (upper corner and middle of the three body buttons). I was actually going to post pics of them today and see if anyone knew more about their origins, as the first I described seems somewhat uncommon although it is a surplus coat. I would like to find another one of these eventually as I have nearly outgrown it and the collar is pretty beat up, but for now the "new" one will do for a while. Edit: and BTW, as my grandfather informed me when giving me the first one years ago, they should always be worn with the collar flipped up.