I'm interested in seeing what the group thinks about sleeve lengths for suit jackets, sport coats, and blazers. I've observed two ways men deal with this issue. The first is to wear the jacket sleeves just long enough so that the shirt cuff is completely covered. The second is to have the jacket adjusted so that a certain amount of shirt cuff is revealed. I recall that when I graduated from college, and started my first corporate job, I pursued the second option and showed Â¼" of shirt cuff, which I thought looked pretty sharp. Accomplishing this was difficult because it required aligning an ever-conflicting collection of shirt and jacket sleeve lengths. Some shirts would be a tad too short while others would be a bit too long. I even resorted to using safety pins to ensure the shirt sleeves were precisely the right length. Currently my jackets are just long enough to prevent the shirt sleeve from showing. However, I'm a bit dissatisfied with this because it seems somewhat inelegant. For instance, I look at pictures of Prince Charles and note that he always shows some shirt cuff under his bespoke suit's sleeves. I recently bought a navy blue Hickey Freeman blazer from Nordstrom and the salesman said they recommend that the sleeves not allow shirt cuffs to show. Clearly Nordstrom is not H. Huntsman, but I assume they must be somewhat tapped into what's what in the profoundly important realm of sleeve length. So, what do you think? Show some cuff or make life easy and just hide it under a longer jacket sleeve? An entirely separate issue is how much cuff to show. I've always thought that showing a full half inch is just too flashy, although all the sartorial arbiters seem to recommend this in lockstep. And...an even more tangential issue is whether a French cuff should be softly turned back by hand and then fastened with a link, or whether the cuff should be starched and pressed into a very rigid crease. My cleaner returns the French cuffs starched but not folded and creased. I believe I've seen pictures of Noel Coward with incredibly stiff cuffs that look quite spiffy. Perhaps I'll fire up my iron and impose a sharp crease on the cuffs. I feel that the group appreciates subtle nuance and fastidiousness about detail. Therefore, I feel comfortable exploring these rather ephemeral issues as part of my first posting. Thank you.
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9/24/03 at 2:02am