Final Best Neapolitan silhouette comparison: Attolini, Borrelli, Rubinacci, Kiton

Here are the best shots I could find from virtually the same angles.
I think this is the best representation of Rubinacci thanks IMatt.
Pinning is on 3 of these jackets in a similar manner
The Rubinacci may not be pinned.
The Kiton roll looks a bit artifically rolled.pressed moreso than most stock photos I've seen.
I would say Borrelli was heavily influened by Attolini design.
The rolls of these jackets are not an accurate representation of how they wear. Most all of these roll fairly well.
No more Neapolitan silho posts after this one

Here's how I've found Borrelli to fit in the real world, they roll much more than photos may lead you to believe, Attolini the same in my experience.

Soph, you've omitted part of the overall silhouette by showing only the waist-up pictures. Differences in trousers contribute to the overall gestalt, and manifest differences among the Neapolitan tailors. I have found Borrelli trousers to be significantly narrower (dimensions like 17" knee circumferences and 14.5" cuff circumferences) than Kiton (more like 19.5" knee, 17-18" cuff) and Attolini (more like 18.5" knee, 17" cuff). I have no experience whatsoever with Rubinacci. A suit has to work as a whole--jacket and trousers together creating a silhouette and "look."

One other point: It is completely impossible to capture a tailor's "typical" jacket silhouette via one example picture. There will be individual differences within each tailor to an extent that a second set of pictures from each tailor could change our impressions of various silhouette details significantly. In addition, photographing idiosyncracies will obscure things. To conduct this analysis properly, we would have to study many examples from each tailor before discovering tailor-specific details that would enable a general conclusion.

Originally Posted by Roger

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Soph, you've omitted part of the overall silhouette by showing only the waist-up pictures. Differences in trousers contribute to the overall gestalt, and manifest differences among the Neapolitan tailors. I have found Borrelli trousers to be significantly narrower (dimensions like 17" knee circumferences and 14.5" cuff circumferences) than Kiton (more like 19.5" knee, 17-18" cuff) and Attolini (more like 18.5" knee, 17" cuff). I have no experience whatsoever with Rubinacci. A suit has to work as a whole--jacket and trousers together creating a silhouette and "look."

One other point: It is completely impossible to capture a tailor's "typical" jacket silhouette via one example picture. There will be individual differences within each tailor to an extent that a second set of pictures from each tailor could change our impressions of various silhouette details significantly. In addition, photographing idiosyncracies will obscure things. To conduct this analysis properly, we would have to study many examples from each tailor before discovering tailor-specific details that would enable a general conclusion.

--- I agree with everything you say. Also, ideally, the jackets should all be either suit or sportcoats and of the same color.

However, it does show you the vast difference between the Attolini(Borrelli) stance and say Rubinacci at the other end of the spectrum.

Originally Posted by jtw3036

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All of these are gorgeous and perfect to my eyes.

The Borrelli has an odd shoulder to me while the Kiton is most pleasing.

I prefer after really waying what appeals to me as unbiased as I can with a more angular/masculine shoulder(imo) with a more V taper silo. Its a very lean/athletic look.

Although I don't like the rounded look of Rubinacci as well as, the bespoke service and quality are quite appealing.

Can't say I really dislike any of these; just a preference. I find the Kiton the least unique and inspired; but wouldn't kick it out of bed by any means. My preference would be bespoke Attolini if money was no object.

An interesting snippet I cut from some comments posted on the Sartorialist Blog:

Anonymous said...
^
You mean you don't all wear Kiton in Naples!?

2:56 PM
Anonymous said...
actually no, kiton for the true neapolitan "sartorialist" is mass market, commercial, sold best elsewere. more industrial let's say.

here we have still true artisans who come from the old naples school of Rubinacci and Attolini.
many disciples have their own shops. we are still a little too fanatical.

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I thought it was interesting because it reminds me a lot of when everyone was going crazy over Armani suits. (Not that RTW Attolini, Borrelli, Isaia, etc. are more appealing than Kiton in my opinion)

If I were to pick a RTW or MTM: Attolini.

Bespoke: Rubinacci.

Problem is: I have to go to Naples or Milan for Rubinacci...


Attolini sells in Vacca shops?

Originally Posted by Chris "Italia"

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Problem is: I have to go to Naples or Milan for Rubinacci...
Or London.

Originally Posted by whnay.

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Or London.


Yes that too..

But, I would rather go to Naples... and see 'em all...... Then take my pick.

A Rubinacci jacket.

Another one. Both un-pinned by the way.

Originally Posted by iyorito

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Another one. Both un-pinned by the way.
Nice. Did you have them made in Milan? The only reason that I ask is that Rubinacci Naples usually uses a front cut while Rubinacci Milan usually uses a front dart. Obviously, you can get either one in either place. Great picture of how soft they really are.