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Neapolitan silhouette comparisons: Rubinacci, Attolini.etc.Part II: New and Improved

post #1 of 14
Thread Starter 
Some better representations and another Rubinacci in a darker color to give a better idea.

Attolini, Rubinacci, Borrelli, Kiton, Rubinacci
post #2 of 14
Now, I like the two Rubinaccis the best.

I should really look into visiting Rubinacci one day.
post #3 of 14
The Rubinacci on the right is more representative of what I have seen. As far as criticisms go (your question in the other thread), many people do not like how unclean the back is and how much drape is in the chest. Also, the overall shape tends to be quite round. By that I do not mean a full silhouette, just that there are no angles like you find in the shoulders of Borrelli and Attolini. The jackets are also quite short when compared to the others, often not fully covering the seat. I wouldn't pay much heed to the gorge height, as that depends on the build of the client. There is no "model".
post #4 of 14
Is the reason some of them look rumpled on the sides of the chest that they have been pinned back?

Trying to ignore color, I like the Kiton. Pattern in the previous thread was better, though. I also like the first Rubinacci - the cream colored one. It seems to be draping better. Is it less firmly pinned and thus more representative of the real cut of the fabric, or is it just a better display job?

Can't say I like the way the shoulder seams look on the last one (too vertical).
post #5 of 14
I do not believe that the Rubinacci ones are pinned.
post #6 of 14
I like the shoulders on the Attolini and Kiton.
post #7 of 14
That borelli is one botched displaying job. It looks like they pinned a s50 on a s42 mannequin. Not to mention the ugly tie & shirt.
the cream rubinacci doesn't look like it's pinned, and I really like the attolini.

post #8 of 14
I suspect the Attolini is pinned.
post #9 of 14
i prefer the kiton but i am not to keen on any actuly!
post #10 of 14
I prefer the Rubinacci on the right.
post #11 of 14
You can get just about any silouette you want at Rubinacci, so that doesn`t count. Borrelli pretty much just copied Attolini`s silouette when they came out (no originality). Kiton is too middle of the road for my taste (probably to suit the American market).

Just by silouette alone, I love Attolini. I like them for their originality...and if you think about it, Cesare Attolini (a genius) is pretty much responsible for all this Rubinacci, Kiton, Borrelli, Isaia hype too.
post #12 of 14
The sheer amount of pinning in some of those photos is ridiculous. Makes a lot of comparison nigh on impossible. Still, I prefer the Attolini shoulders.
post #13 of 14
It's best to be properly fitted for your physique, instead of stuffing yourself into some designers sketch.
post #14 of 14
Thread Starter 
Key problems and observations:

the 3/2 roll is very deceptive in that I found multiple photos from each maker showing either virtually no roll to extreme roll

the obvious pinning to really shape the body

I would say Borrelli is very close to the Attolini cut as Dragan I believed said. Very similar in the multiple photos I've seen.

Rubinacci's white jacket isn't pinned so the suit is probably a better rep for sure.

The Kiton and Attolini above are pinned extremely.
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Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Neapolitan silhouette comparisons: Rubinacci, Attolini.etc.Part II: New and Improved