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RANCOURT & Co. Shoes - Made in Maine - Page 478

post #7156 of 7404
Does anyone know what last Rancourt uses for Ralph Lauren Polo loafers like the Edric or Elrick?
post #7157 of 7404
PDG bison mocs again.
post #7158 of 7404

I've been searching for about a year for a way to recreate this shoe (a never-released prototype from a now-defunct company):

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

My prime contender would be a Rancourt Blake Wingtip with no broguing, amber ungaro calf (or maybe Essex?), and an unfinished sole edge for $468 after 10% mailing list discount. This would be almost the exact makeup I want, or as close to it as I can imagine. Aesthetically, this would be spot on to what I want, but I know some folks would think it's ridiculous crazy to pay that much for a blake/rapid shoe with a fiberboard insole.

 

The other option I've been considering is a Wesco Robert William, in burgundy domain leather, for $513. This would include $99 custom fitting based on my foot tracings, which I could reuse for possible future Wesco boots. Construction and fit wise, this would probably be the clear winner at the price point, but aesthetically it's not really my ideal makeup, and I don't think it would be as versatile in my casual-business casual wardrobe as the Rancourts would.

 

What do y'all think?
 

post #7159 of 7404
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scarlet View Post


I've been searching for about a year for a way to recreate this shoe (a never-released prototype from a now-defunct company): Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

My prime contender would be a Rancourt Blake Wingtip with no broguing, amber ungaro calf (or maybe Essex?), and an unfinished sole edge for $468 after 10% mailing list discount. This would be almost the exact makeup I want, or as close to it as I can imagine. Aesthetically, this would be spot on to what I want, but I know some folks would think it's ridiculous crazy to pay that much for a blake/rapid shoe with a fiberboard insole.

The other option I've been considering is a Wesco Robert William, in burgundy domain leather, for $513. This would include $99 custom fitting based on my foot tracings, which I could reuse for possible future Wesco boots. Construction and fit wise, this would probably be the clear winner at the price point, but aesthetically it's not really my ideal makeup, and I don't think it would be as versatile in my casual-business casual wardrobe as the Rancourts would.

What do y'all think?

 


A couple of thoughts (an apologies if you've considered some of these already while arriving at the above):

1. Are you confident about that Rancourt pricing? I think there could be a significant upcharge (at least $100) on a custom makeup like that. If you have a price quote from them on it then fine, but otherwise I'd wonder if it would come in under $500. And I think that the blake shoes aren't really where Rancourt's value lies, particularly once you get up there in price.

2. I take it you aren't too wedded to replicating the exact color, right? I haven't heard of Rancourt using ungaro calf. Maybe they do. I have their Italian Mimosa calf and it is nice, but not nearly that color even in it's lightest version. Essex will be quite different too. Much lighter and then patinating to reddish brown as far as I know. It's also not terribly refined in it's feel. Thicker than calf. Suited for unlined boots and shoes.

3. On the Wescos, I don't know if Baker Shoes will customize a Robert WIlliam, but they don't charge the $99 fitting fee. You might ask them if you go that route.

4. Have you considered a few other makers? Vass and Buday both hand welt their shoes and should likely be able to create something very much like what you are looking for. Vass would be most expensive I think : maybe $800. Buday would likely come in a little over $600.

No Man Walks Alone offers Vass MTO (if you can't work directly with Vass, which you aren't supposed to be able to do in the US at this point, but you could try. Might be marginally less expensive, though NMWA is really top notch and will be very easy to work with).

Panta Clothing offers Buday MTO. Talk with Ed there about the right last for this and for your feet. Buday has quite a few leathers they use, including crust calf that they burnish. I personally think this could be a really good way for you to get what you want.

One other name I'd throw out there is Dayton Boots. They make an oxford and do custom work with Goodyear welting. They don't have a wide array of leathers available, but a latigo or English tan might work (and they use both) and Andrew there shows custom shoe making he does on their Instagram. Don't go by what the shoes look like on their Website. Those are a disservice to their brand. Their instagram is much more representative. You can just give them a call to discuss and then send emails if it sounds likely. Their stuff is priced in the range you've mentioned above.

Hope you get the pair of shoes you are looking for!
post #7160 of 7404
Quote:
Originally Posted by Engineer05 View Post
 

 

I'd say it's about 1/2 size larger than the 800 last.  In my size 9 Ranger Mocs (800 last), my toes touch the end.  In my size 9 (2592 last) chukkas and boots, I have plenty of room for my toes, even with medium weight socks.

 

 

Perfect. That is exactly what I need. Would you say the widths are similar? I'm currently a 12E on the 800. Being offered a custom moc on the 2592 to simulate a 12.5

post #7161 of 7404
Quote:
Originally Posted by chiggyv View Post
 

 

Perfect. That is exactly what I need. Would you say the widths are similar? I'm currently a 12E on the 800. Being offered a custom moc on the 2592 to simulate a 12.5

 

 

I'd say the width is about the same, except for the toebox.  The 2592 has a wider and rounder toebox, whereas the 800 has a slightly tapered toebox.

post #7162 of 7404
Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankCowperwood View Post


A couple of thoughts (an apologies if you've considered some of these already while arriving at the above):

1. Are you confident about that Rancourt pricing? I think there could be a significant upcharge (at least $100) on a custom makeup like that. If you have a price quote from them on it then fine, but otherwise I'd wonder if it would come in under $500. And I think that the blake shoes aren't really where Rancourt's value lies, particularly once you get up there in price.

2. I take it you aren't too wedded to replicating the exact color, right? I haven't heard of Rancourt using ungaro calf. Maybe they do. I have their Italian Mimosa calf and it is nice, but not nearly that color even in it's lightest version. Essex will be quite different too. Much lighter and then patinating to reddish brown as far as I know. It's also not terribly refined in it's feel. Thicker than calf. Suited for unlined boots and shoes.

3. On the Wescos, I don't know if Baker Shoes will customize a Robert WIlliam, but they don't charge the $99 fitting fee. You might ask them if you go that route.

4. Have you considered a few other makers? Vass and Buday both hand welt their shoes and should likely be able to create something very much like what you are looking for. Vass would be most expensive I think : maybe $800. Buday would likely come in a little over $600.

No Man Walks Alone offers Vass MTO (if you can't work directly with Vass, which you aren't supposed to be able to do in the US at this point, but you could try. Might be marginally less expensive, though NMWA is really top notch and will be very easy to work with).

Panta Clothing offers Buday MTO. Talk with Ed there about the right last for this and for your feet. Buday has quite a few leathers they use, including crust calf that they burnish. I personally think this could be a really good way for you to get what you want.

One other name I'd throw out there is Dayton Boots. They make an oxford and do custom work with Goodyear welting. They don't have a wide array of leathers available, but a latigo or English tan might work (and they use both) and Andrew there shows custom shoe making he does on their Instagram. Don't go by what the shoes look like on their Website. Those are a disservice to their brand. Their instagram is much more representative. You can just give them a call to discuss and then send emails if it sounds likely. Their stuff is priced in the range you've mentioned above.

Hope you get the pair of shoes you are looking for!


Thanks for your detailed thoughts.

 

Rancourt quoted me $520 for a custom pair of wingtips in calf. They offer most of their Dress Collection in burnished amber ungaro calf now, it looks much lighter than the tan mimosa from the pictures. it seems to be a relatively new addition.

 

I haven't really considered any other companies because I really only want to buy from a US maker. Wesco and Rancourt are the only US makers I know of who will make any sort of MTO wingtip, short of going full bespoke, which I'm not prepared for yet. It's either these, or learn how to make my own shoes (which I might do anyway).

post #7163 of 7404
@scarlet sounds like you've done your homework. I'd like to see the ungaro calf.

Dayton is just in Vancouver... smile.gif But I get made in the USA.
post #7164 of 7404

Artist's impression:

post #7165 of 7404

How about these?

 

http://us.skoaktiebolaget.se/collections/carmina/products/carmina-austerity-brogue

post #7166 of 7404

I've looked at those before as well, too sleek for my taste, and not made in USA either.

post #7167 of 7404
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scarlet View Post

Artist's impression: Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


Those look good.

In re. the wisdom of buying Rancourt's construction. It appears that Rancourt is definitely much closer to the design and aesthetic you want. The Wescos probably do last longer (though I imagine the Rancourts will make it through at least a couple of resoles, and how long that takes depends on how you care for them and how much you wear them). But if they aren't as close to the shoe you are looking for, is it really as useful that you have them longer?
post #7168 of 7404
Quote:
Originally Posted by Engineer05 View Post
 

 

 

I'd say the width is about the same, except for the toebox.  The 2592 has a wider and rounder toebox, whereas the 800 has a slightly tapered toebox.

Thanks so much.

 

My issue is the tapered toe on the 800 causes my big toe to hit the side/end of the shoe. I suppose I'll stick to the same size (12E) in the 2592. Hopefully the extra length and fuller toe don't end up being too big in combination.

post #7169 of 7404
Natural CXL ranger mocs:
post #7170 of 7404
Quote:
Originally Posted by chiggyv View Post
 

Thanks so much.

 

My issue is the tapered toe on the 800 causes my big toe to hit the side/end of the shoe. I suppose I'll stick to the same size (12E) in the 2592. Hopefully the extra length and fuller toe don't end up being too big in combination.

 

From the sounds of it, that should work!  I really like the 2592, and if I ever do a custom moc, I'll probably ask for it.

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