RANCOURT & Co. Shoes - Made in Maine

I could be persuaded to get with the mini lug (commando sole) option



rydenfan said:

I wonder if we could work with Rancourt to create a SF special makeup....hmmm

Navy shell captoe with full leather midsole, natural edge trim and a leather sole?

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I am for sure in on that



rydenfan said:

serious?? how about looking one post up from yours...

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oh really? so caramel = natural thats what you mean?

I love this forum, but we should rename it the Shell Cordovan forum.

I do think those Navy Shell Beefrolls are amazing.

I've got some non shell makeups coming. And we just saw a couple if nice CXL shoes. But I know what you mean.

tampatravel said:

I love this forum, but we should rename it the Shell Cordovan forum.

I do think those Navy Shell Beefrolls are amazing.

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I just posted pics like two weeks ago of a navy CXL makeup but I hear you

So, I just got a bit of info on sizing from Bakes (super-thanks!), and got off the phone with Rancourt. Long story short, their sizing on the Blake boot is *screwed up*. Katie (who did a nice amount of help) got back to me on my initial question after a couple days, with some information. Apparently, the Blake boot lasts came back much shorter and narrower than expected, and that's been causing problems.

She measured the lasts used. I have a 9EE in mocs, and they fit nice and snugly. The lengths on the Blake are such that my moc 9EE last is a good 3/4 of an inch *longer* than the 9.5D Blake, and a 1/4 of an inch longer than the 10D Blake. Width isn't quite as important for me (because boots are usually taller, have more volume). Also, I can't just find a pair of Timberland Boot Co. Eastern Standards, because Rancourt used *Timberland's* lasts for those.

Bakes told me his shoes (both 9.5D) are about the same length and width, and correspond more or less with Katie's information. Helpful, but not enough to allow me to pull the trigger. Katie told me that Blake lasted boots are at Jack Spade, so I'm going to swing by their stores on Saturday, see what I can find sizing-wise, but it may be that they are of limited stock in my sizes.

I think I've decided to hold off on the shell Rancourt boots, since custom boots need certainty, and go with something a surer-bet. I wanted Natty CXL boots as well, and OSB had one last pair of trenches in my size, so I jumped on that. I think this may be an instance where going with a designer-lead brand vs. a manufacturer-lead brand is advantageous, as OSB apparently spent years designing and throwing out their lasts until they were perfect. It's the eternal question, do you have the contractor plan your redesigned bathroom, or do you pay a small premium to have an architect design it?

That said, once I can establish my Blake size for *certain* I will probably still get a pair of natty shell boots (possibly this weekend, if I'm lucky). I got pricing information, getting them unlined drops, with half-commando soles drops the price to $625 (from $675 with lined and tempest soles). Speed hooks are a go, and will be on their new Eastland Made-in-Maine boots. More eyelets are a maybe, she said she thought it was too close together, until I pointed out that Alden Indy's fit 11 pairs into the space that Rancourt does 6, so she said it'd probably be fine, but no promises.

Ah well, thanks for the help everyone. And best of wishes to people going forward on getting a pair of Blakes that fit you properly.

TH3515 said:

Hi everybody,

FedEx just brought me my new summer shoes. Navy-coloured Boat Chukkas that Rancourt made for Brooks Brothers:



I've been lurking on this forum and on the Rancourt website for a while now. This is my first pair of handsewn shoes. I was nervous about the sizing as there would have been no sensible way of returning them all the way from Germany to the US. These were on sale 50% off and the only pair left was exactly my usual size – 13D. So I took the risk and just ordered them.
I loved them from the moment I opened the box. The leather is thick and supple and feels just beautiful (there was no exact description, but I guess this is navy Chromexcel), and both sides fit like the proverbial pair of gloves, which is surprising because I have large feet with narrow heel and a significant length difference between left and right. So now I know what size to order – I have a feeling this will not be may last pair;-)

Thanks for letting me share,

Bernhard

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I got the same pair, but i find the sole to be uncomfortable, maybe because i have flat feet. I am getting it re-soled with Lactae Havea; hopefully it will make a difference...

Interesting. I find the camp sole very comfortable

Me too. For my feet anyway. Surprisingly so.

It probably depends on the wearer's weight. To me, at over 100 kilos, it feels almost like having no sole at all, or like the sock-like house slippers we call "Hüttenschuhe": very comfortable on smooth surfaces and carpet, but a bit too thin for walking longer distances on asphalt. But then I have enough shoes for that kind of use.

TH3515 said:

It probably depends on the wearer's weight. To me, at over 100 kilos, it feels almost like having no sole at all, or like the sock-like house slippers we call "Hüttenschuhe": very comfortable on smooth surfaces and carpet, but a bit too thin for walking longer distances on asphalt. But then I have enough shoes for that kind of use.

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That makes sense. I knew a big football player dude in college that used to have to buy his shoes from a special store because he said that regular shoes are designed for people that weight 150lbs, and they didn't give him enough support.

925 said:

oh really? so caramel = natural thats what you mean?

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I received that same info from Katie at Rancourt. I had the same question.

Fellow Rancourt Enthusiasts:

I'm having a pair of Brown CXL boat shoes made.

In the stock version they use Tan thread for the toe (and heel) stitching.

I am thinking about using White thread for the toe (and heel) stitching instead.

Do you think it will be too bright?

I think it will make it POP! nicely

These are pics of the stock shoe with Tan stitching:








I specified white stitching for the upper on my blake boots. They mistakenly used brown, and I had them remake the boots. I was glad I did after I received the second pair. (Pics of both pairs if you go back to December in this thread)

I just spec'd a pair with white stitching. I deliberated a lot, because Rancourt generally prefers the tan, but I think it's unnecessarily understated.
I think these are both white: