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RANCOURT & Co. Shoes - Made in Maine - Page 229

post #3421 of 5294
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jbrookeiv View Post
 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

New shoe day for me. I picked up a pair of the Ranger Mocs in Natural Chromexcel. I tried to adjust the picture to show the true colors, not sure how well I did. These Lactae Hevea soles are awesome, they will be great through the upcoming Boston winter.

 

Can't wait to get these broken in.

 

Here's another pic that I think is more representative of the color.

 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

Thanks for sharing these - I've been considering getting this exact pair, and this may just have pushed me over the edge. They look great.

post #3422 of 5294
Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckb View Post
 

 

Thanks for sharing these - I've been considering getting this exact pair, and this may just have pushed me over the edge. They look great.

 

No problem. They look great. My wife also picked up a pair of the Women's boat shoes, I'll post those when they arrive.

post #3423 of 5294
Great outside photo. Those look very nice!
post #3424 of 5294
Does anyone know how Rancourt's unlined Orion suede material compare with Alden's unlined shoes? I'm hoping to get an unlined loafer from them and Kyle recommended the Orion suede, as it's a bit thicker than their other suede materials. I'd like to get something that nicely approximates how floppy and casual Alden's unlined suede loafer can be, however. Anyone have experience with these two models/ materials?
post #3425 of 5294
I think @Bakes11771 had some conversation with Rancourt about unlined suede. Only unlined suede I have from them is a Blake boot in the calico suede.
post #3426 of 5294

Frank is correct that I spoke to them on the subject.  All that I can tell you is that Repello Suede needs to be lined according to what they told me.  The black deerskin lining is really soft though, so Repello with the Deerskin is almost as good as unlined, if not just as good.

 

Someone mentioned that the reason Repello needs a lining is because it is a split.  I think it's the middle part of the hide, including neither the inner most nor the outermost layer of the hide.

 

I do believe that Rancourt offers some suede varieties that do not require a lining.  Orion must be one of them.  I can't speak on the fineness of the Orion nap compared to the nap of Alden suede, which is something that I would want to determine if I were you.  I suspect the Alden suede may have a finer or shorter nap than the Orion.

 

I think Wadhab may know a thing or two on the topics relating to Rancourt, Alden and unlined footwear.  Perhaps he can weigh in.

 

Good luck.  Don't forget to come back and post pics.

post #3427 of 5294
Thanks. I'm less concerned about the nap than I am about how flexible/ soft/ floppy the two materials are. If anyone has experience with Alden's unlined shoes (preferably the loafers, but the chukkas will do as well), and can compare them to Rancourt's unlined suedes, that would be great. Kyle said the snuff suede I was originally interested in needed to be lined, but that Orion is fine. One of my fears is that it's going to come back as a regular unlined shoe you'd find in almost any American maker. I'm looking for something much floppier (like Alden's)
post #3428 of 5294
PSA:
I saw on Twitter that code BLACK FRIDAY will take 10% of any order on Friday
post #3429 of 5294

Hey guys, my Danforth wingtips finally came in and I've decided to sell them off.  The month of waiting resulted in some other impulse buys! Details are in my sig...brand spanking new.

post #3430 of 5294
Just picked up some brown Ranger Mocs with the 30% off code from Club Monaco, a basic and versatile shoe for my basic wardrobe.
post #3431 of 5294
So I got to meet Mike and Kyle Rancourt yesterday at the Pop-Up Flea, as well as Katie. That was wonderful, as I'm of course a huge fan of them. I now own 4 pair of Rancourts, but unfortunately with the weather I wasn't wearing any of them. Along with chatting with them a while, I asked some questions about their construction, and got some answers as well, mostly with Mike.

So here's the summary, all paraphrased as best as I remember, *none* of these should be taken as quotes of what I asked or even close to their phrasings.

Q: How come you guys can get so much natural shell cordovan, while everyone else is treating it as though it's impossible to get?
A: We have a really great relationship Horween, it goes back a long time with shell cordovan, and (I think he said it this way) we order a lot of stuff ahead of time. Alden waits until they get the order for the shoes and then orders the cordovan to fill that order.

*I interpreted this as basically Horween knows they have a guaranteed sale to Rancourt, so Rancourt gets first crack. Alden isn't a guaranteed buyer, so they have to wait.

Q: Do you use fiberboard in your insoles? Why? Doesn't that diminish the longevity of the shoe?
A: Yes we do. *I don't remember his answer to why, sorry guys.* No it doesn't because unlike with goodyear welted shoes, we replace that insole when the soles get redone.

Q: What do you think of neocork soles? Aren't they cool? (I was wearing Alden Indy boots)
A: They are pretty much the sole we wish we could sell, we love them, and we've searched high and low, but it looks like Alden and Red Wing have a lockdown on the suppliers, we can't find anyone willing to sell to us.

Q: I was disappointed that my #8 CXL didn't actually act like #8 shell.
A: Yeah, we aren't thrilled by that either, but that's what Horween calls it, #8 CXL. They say it's because the base color is the same, but it definitely doesn't do the color fade that #8 shell does, it won't fade to yellow/red, sorry that it was a disappointment.

Q: You know your competitors are much more active on Style Forum, any interest in checking it out? For example, Oak Street hangs out there, and Allen Edmonds CEO has a sweetheart deal on custom shell shoes.
A (mostly Kyle and Katie): That AE deal sounds awesome, wow. We have looked into SF, and we get you guys buy a lot of our stuff, we just don't have the time. Our competitors that hang out there, like OSB, tend not to be actual manufacturers, so there is only so much shoe related stuff they can do. That's just the way it is, those guys design great shoes, but they don't make them.

Anyway, they also offered me some really great customer support discussions particular to me. They are all super friendly and social, and I apologized to/thanked them for having to deal with all of us crazy shoe lovers.

The deals they had at Pop-Up Flea were okay, but they were mostly the sales-tax difference of buying in person in NYC vs. buying online without tax, so I didn't buy anything.
post #3432 of 5294
Quote:
Originally Posted by wdahab View Post

So I got to meet Mike and Kyle Rancourt yesterday at the Pop-Up Flea, as well as Katie. That was wonderful, as I'm of course a huge fan of them. I now own 4 pair of Rancourts, but unfortunately with the weather I wasn't wearing any of them. Along with chatting with them a while, I asked some questions about their construction, and got some answers as well, mostly with Mike.

So here's the summary, all paraphrased as best as I remember, *none* of these should be taken as quotes of what I asked or even close to their phrasings.

Q: How come you guys can get so much natural shell cordovan, while everyone else is treating it as though it's impossible to get?
A: We have a really great relationship Horween, it goes back a long time with shell cordovan, and (I think he said it this way) we order a lot of stuff ahead of time. Alden waits until they get the order for the shoes and then orders the cordovan to fill that order.

*I interpreted this as basically Horween knows they have a guaranteed sale to Rancourt, so Rancourt gets first crack. Alden isn't a guaranteed buyer, so they have to wait.

Q: Do you use fiberboard in your insoles? Why? Doesn't that diminish the longevity of the shoe?
A: Yes we do. *I don't remember his answer to why, sorry guys.* No it doesn't because unlike with goodyear welted shoes, we replace that insole when the soles get redone.

Q: What do you think of neocork soles? Aren't they cool? (I was wearing Alden Indy boots)
A: They are pretty much the sole we wish we could sell, we love them, and we've searched high and low, but it looks like Alden and Red Wing have a lockdown on the suppliers, we can't find anyone willing to sell to us.

Q: I was disappointed that my #8 CXL didn't actually act like #8 shell.
A: Yeah, we aren't thrilled by that either, but that's what Horween calls it, #8 CXL. They say it's because the base color is the same, but it definitely doesn't do the color fade that #8 shell does, it won't fade to yellow/red, sorry that it was a disappointment.

Q: You know your competitors are much more active on Style Forum, any interest in checking it out? For example, Oak Street hangs out there, and Allen Edmonds CEO has a sweetheart deal on custom shell shoes.
A (mostly Kyle and Katie): That AE deal sounds awesome, wow. We have looked into SF, and we get you guys buy a lot of our stuff, we just don't have the time. Our competitors that hang out there, like OSB, tend not to be actual manufacturers, so there is only so much shoe related stuff they can do. That's just the way it is, those guys design great shoes, but they don't make them.

Anyway, they also offered me some really great customer support discussions particular to me. They are all super friendly and social, and I apologized to/thanked them for having to deal with all of us crazy shoe lovers.

The deals they had at Pop-Up Flea were okay, but they were mostly the sales-tax difference of buying in person in NYC vs. buying online without tax, so I didn't buy anything.

 

Good info!  Thanks for asking the question about whether they replace the fiberboard insoles.  That certainly helps their longevity, as long as you are having them resoled by Rancourt.  I'm far more prone to purchase their products knowing that they have the means to replace weak links as needed.  Obviously that doesn't help if you use a local cobbler though.

 

I was confused by the discussion about the Color 8 CXL.  Why would someone expect CXL to act like shell?  Regardless of the color, they are two completely different leathers and don't even come from the same animal.  I also don't really understand why Rancourt would have expected them to behave similarly. :puzzled:

 

I'm not surprised by his response to the lack of presence on StyleForum.  I am sure they are very very busy.  He does touch on the fact that some of the other companies (namely Oakstreet) don't manufacture their own products.  I've always been aware of that, but I've not been able to figure out who actually does make Oakstreet's products.  Anyone else know?

post #3433 of 5294
Quote:
Originally Posted by MoneyWellSpent View Post

Good info!  Thanks for asking the question about whether they replace the fiberboard insoles.  That certainly helps their longevity, as long as you are having them resoled by Rancourt.  I'm far more prone to purchase their products knowing that they have the means to replace weak links as needed.  Obviously that doesn't help if you use a local cobbler though.

I was confused by the discussion about the Color 8 CXL.  Why would someone expect CXL to act like shell?  Regardless of the color, they are two completely different leathers and don't even come from the same animal.  I also don't really understand why Rancourt would have expected them to behave similarly. puzzled.gif

I'm not surprised by his response to the lack of presence on StyleForum.  I am sure they are very very busy.  He does touch on the fact that some of the other companies (namely Oakstreet) don't manufacture their own products.  I've always been aware of that, but I've not been able to figure out who actually does make Oakstreet's products.  Anyone else know?

The #8 confusion is because it implies (at least to me) that it's using the same dye as #8 shell. The dye in #8 shell breaks down in sunlight. The dye in #8 cxl does not. It's akin to saying something is indigo dyed, when you really mean that it's dyed the same color as indigo (indigo has very specific properties, such as rubbing off very easily and fading) but using a dye that doesn't act like indigo. You'd be disappointed, thinking you were getting the same properties. In that way, I expected #8 CXL not to act like shell creasing wise, but to fade like shell in exposure to sunlight.

As for OSB, they (and Yuketen, and Red Wings handsewns) make their shoes with Highland Shoes, a Berkshire Hathaway subsidiary (through Justin Brands) as of this year, located in Maine.
post #3434 of 5294

Well, I know for sure Oak Street isn't made by Rancourt for sure. Oak Street almost gets upset if you ask them if Rancourt makes their shoes. I'd guess that someone like Quoddy makes their goods but I'm probably wrong. Thanks for asking those questions. Kyle has been quick to answer any question I've ever had. I really want to buy a pair of those navy shell penny loafers they have coming out.

 

http://instagram.com/p/hcCKHsvrEq/#

post #3435 of 5294
Quote:
Originally Posted by wdahab View Post


The #8 confusion is because it implies (at least to me) that it's using the same dye as #8 shell. The dye in #8 shell breaks down in sunlight. The dye in #8 cxl does not. It's akin to saying something is indigo dyed, when you really mean that it's dyed the same color as indigo (indigo has very specific properties, such as rubbing off very easily and fading) but using a dye that doesn't act like indigo. You'd be disappointed, thinking you were getting the same properties. In that way, I expected #8 CXL not to act like shell creasing wise, but to fade like shell in exposure to sunlight.

As for OSB, they (and Yuketen, and Red Wings handsewns) make their shoes with Highland Shoes, a Berkshire Hathaway subsidiary (through Justin Brands) as of this year, located in Maine.

 

Ah, so is the color change solely due to the dye itself that is breaking down rather than how the dye reacts to it's medium over time?  That was not my train of thought.  Since dark shell tends to lighten over time and light shell tends to darken over time, my understanding had been that the color change was a combination of the dye responding to light and time in conjunction with it's medium (shell).  Just as paint behaves differently depending on what medium it is applied (paper, canvas, wood, etc.), or just as different furniture will react over time differently due to it's wood properties rather than what color it is stained.  The dye won't penetrate shell like it would CXL due to it's different grain characteristics, so I wouldn't expect the same permanency.  As Kyle said, the base color is the same, so I suspect it is the way the dye ages in conjunction with shell, no?

 

Good to know who makes OSB's products, thanks!

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