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help Globetrotter build a new wardrobe

post #1 of 67
Thread Starter 
ok, I need a new wardrobe, and I have earmarked the money for it. I hope to buy around January-Feb.

about me - I am a director in a 200 mil company, father of twin 4 year olds and a 9 year old, 43. short and broad, full head of hair, light skin. ex-military

what do I want? - I like to have a simple wardrobe, not really flashy or looking like it consits of a lot, but I want it to look better, more organized, neater. for influence, I really like the simple lines of il vechio, I like the type of look of Dennis Farina in Law and order, I like the idea of very simple clothing with a good fit and excellent fabric, in dark blue and gray, with blue and white shirts.

here is what I am thinking -

8 suits - 4 heavy wool, midnight blue single and double breasted, charcoal gray single and double breasted, all solid fabric. same thing in light weight wool. for each jacket, 2 pair of matching pants and one non-matcing (say a patterned) pair. 8 waistcoats, 4 matching and 4 in different colors.

5 pair of black cordovan ankle boots - one monk, one austerity, one brogue, one whole cut medalian, one split toe.

36 shirts - 9 linen - 3 white, 3 blue 3 blue with white colar and cuffs. 9 light wool - 3 white, 3 blue, 3 blue whith white colar and cuffs. 18 cotton, 6/6/6.

16 ties, all gray or dark blue, seven fold. 4 summer, 4 wool, 8 silk. a few striped and pin dots, but mostly solid.

4 pair boxcloth susperders in bright colors,

one alegator belt

15 pocket squares in bright colors

one alpaca overcoat, dark gray

one trilby in dark gray



the plan is that I want to buy the fabric and buttons, get linings made with some bright designs on them, then get the clothes made.



I am open to any suggestions and comments. not locked into anything yet. have a few months to tweak the plan.
post #2 of 67
Holy Fuck. Best "help me dress better" thread I've ever seen. It looks like you know what items you need, what kind of budget have you set asside for this? I could easily spend £20,000 on that lot and still only go with budget-bespoke!
post #3 of 67
what do you plan to do with your current lineup, trash it all?
post #4 of 67
I'm not sure that you plan is specific enough. If you're in Chicago, you have local and visiting options for custom clothes. It would probabably make the most sense if you meet with a few tailors and see who clicks with you in style and personality. Your list seems heavy on vests and light on odd jackets, unless the objective of your list is to supplement a larger existing wardrobe. - B
post #5 of 67
Thread Starter 
ok, a few more details -

a few ties and 2 pair of shoes are staying (and included in the list) everything else is going, I've lost a bit over 120 pounds, and I am hoping to lose 30 or 40 more by the time I pull the trigger. my clothes are all old, and don't fit me.

I will have everything made in india, the shoes will be alden or vass, the ties hober.


the budget is much smaller than you would think, but I am convinced that I can get what I want for about 12 K, with the proper work and negotiation.

I don't wear any odd jackets today - I may add 2 alpaca double breasted jackts and 2 tweed single breasted to this. I like th add vests, but I may drop some.


I see the idea that pretty much all of these jackts/pants and vest could be worn with each other.

go! advise me, offer me wisdom and guidance.
post #6 of 67
Quote:
Originally Posted by globetrotter View Post
ok, a few more details -

a few ties and 2 pair of shoes are staying (and included in the list) everything else is going, I've lost a bit over 120 pounds, and I am hoping to lose 30 or 40 more by the time I pull the trigger. my clothes are all old, and don't fit me.

I will have everything made in india, the shoes will be alden or vass, the ties hober.


the budget is much smaller than you would think, but I am convinced that I can get what I want for about 12 K, with the proper work and negotiation.

I don't wear any odd jackets today - I may add 2 alpaca double breasted jackts and 2 tweed single breasted to this. I like th add vests, but I may drop some.


I see the idea that pretty much all of these jackts/pants and vest could be worn with each other.

go! advise me, offer me wisdom and guidance.


I've answered your thread in the streetwear section. I know you travel a lot so I agree the modular wardrobe is optimal. I'M not sure what you gain by having 5 pair of boots if you only ever bring 1-2 though. I'd get like 4 and be done with it (hate split toes-ditch that ). The suit thing is perfect. I'd lower the shirt count to two weeks (14 shirts + say 6 extra=20). I'd then make another order 6 months down the road if I needed it, leaves you time to think.

I would get two overcoats; one lighter than the other. There is nothing more annoying than only being adapted to super freezing, you need to be fine in mid cold too. Casablanca in december isn't Munich in december...
post #7 of 67
Well, congratulations on the discipline in losing all that weight.

I have to admit that I'm skeptical about a strategy that involves having everything made all at once in India.

OTH, if you are addressing an immediate need in January, but spending modestly so that you can see how your weight settles out in the first year after your weight loss, it could make sense.


- B
post #8 of 67
Quote:
Originally Posted by voxsartoria View Post

I have to admit that I'm skeptical about a strategy that involves having everything made all at once in India.

So am I. Which Indian tailor do you intend to use for 8 suits in one go ? Have you considered HK as an alternative
post #9 of 67
I'm a sportcoat kind of guy, you are not apparently, so what you have in mind seems great for you. What is missing is a casual wardrobe. You mentioned that you are the father of 3, young twins and a 9 year old. You're gonna need some stuff to knock a ball around/hang out at home with them. I'd add to that list three pair of jeans, dark, raw denim, a lighter wash, and something else (maybe black?). Two pairs of casual khakis (not dress khakis) and 5 polo shirts. I'd also add some casual sport shirts (think JCrew, patterned, can be worn tucked in or out), maybe 5 of those. A pair of Jack Purcells in white or off white and a pair of all-stars. Top it off with a pair of LLBean Bluchers Mocs (or their signature line's Blucher Boots) and a pea coat and you sound good to go.
post #10 of 67
Quote:
Originally Posted by NewYorkRanger View Post
I'm a sportcoat kind of guy, you are not apparently, so what you have in mind seems great for you. What is missing is a casual wardrobe.

rob, there's a thread on his own in sw&d
post #11 of 67
Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzl View Post
rob, there's a thread on his own in sw&d

post #12 of 67
I've been there, and am currently in the very same boat as you are. I've dropped 145 pounds in the last 2 years, and have fluctuated up and down 15 pounds over the last year. I want to rebuild a staple wardrobe myself, mainly a much simpler pair of SB suits, solid dark grey and navy. But I've held off commissioning Chan to do these, until I settle out at the goal weight for more than 9 months. Ideally, I hope to drop the last 28 pounds or so, before I pull the trigger.

Sorry to hijack your thread, but I thought it was interesting to see someone in the same boat. You're wardrobe overhaul seems to be on a much grander scale than mine although.

Best of luck!
post #13 of 67
Quote:
Originally Posted by voxsartoria View Post
Well, congratulations on the discipline in losing all that weight.

I have to admit that I'm skeptical about a strategy that involves having everything made all at once in India.

OTH, if you are addressing an immediate need in January, but spending modestly so that you can see how your weight settles out in the first year after your weight loss, it could make sense.


- B

I agree with vox here. My issue isn't with the country of origin, but rather with the idea of doing it all at once. If you're unhappy with the tailor's work, you're pretty much screwed. Good luck either way. This seems like quite the sartorial adventure.
post #14 of 67
My friend who first went to Raphael was convinced he could get similarly excellent results from an Indian tailor touted to be one of the best. He got a suit. It was dirt cheap ($100, I think). It looks like garbage. Perhaps you know better about where to go, but everyone else is right: ordering all that stuff in one visit would be disastrous regardless of the tailor or geographical location.
post #15 of 67
^^ 100 USD including cloth ?
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