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Decade's End: Top Ten Collections 2000-2010

post #1 of 51
8/30/10 at 12:05am
Thread Starter 
Do we have this thread already? I don't think so... Anyway, was discussing with friends the other day (as the decade winds to a close) the ten best/your ten favorite men's collections of the past decade. I would be interested in hearing your opinions. If possible, please list the designer, season, and a link to pics (if available). A blurb why you think they are the best might help, as well. Though many members were probably in elementary school in 2000 and don't remember... it's really incredible how far menswear has come in a decade, in terms of selection, style, choice, etc. I'll start; feel free to add, delete, or comment... 10. Gianfranco Ferre AW09 http://www.gq.com/fashion-shows/brief/F2009MEN-GFMEN Ferre needed rejuvenation even when the man himself died in 2007. The new designers injected just that, creating a super-luxe, Ferrerificly structured, wild collection. Not terribly wearable, but a very interesting way to think about putting on one's armor. 9. Valentino AW06 http://www.gq.com/fashion-shows/brief/F2006MEN-VALMEN Showed not that Valentino was back, but that he'd never left. Luxe, wearable, with something for just about everybody. A huge collection, a distinctive silhouette, and a lot of flare/romance. 8. Fendi Uomo AW04-05 http://forums.thefashionspot.com/f60...04-a-2475.html A really unique, luxe collection with a beautiful color pallette. Silvia Fendi showed that this line was more than just that locking "F" logo. Unfortunately, really hard to find stockists. 7. Dior Homme AW2003 "Luster" http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/show....photos/id,1677 Excellent tailoring, goth-ninja styling, and (in 2003) without 15,000 copycat brands popping up everywhere. If you wanted the super-skinny, luxe, dark vibe... you had to go with Dior and mortgage your house. 6. Calvin Klein Collection (by Italo Zucchelli) S/S 2005 http://www.style.com/fashionshows/re...005MEN-CKLEIN/ Like the Jil at no. 5, a wearable collection that was minimal, but with great use of color. I haven't really found a "colorful" collection that I've liked more than this one. 5. Jil Sander S/S 2005 http://www.style.com/fashionshows/re...5MEN-JLSANDER/ A personal favorite. Jil's return marked (IMHO) a great distillation of all the brand meant. Simple, minimal, great fabrics, luxe details. Always very wearable and with just a hint of flare. 4. Alexander McQueen AW06 http://www.gq.com/fashion-shows/brief/F2006MEN-AMCMEN Another collection of variation, romance, and new ways to think about putting on clothes. Luxurious, difficult, gorgeous. 3. Gucci AW04 http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/show....photos/id,1703 Tom Ford's TEXAS collection. Enough said. 2. Helmut Lang S/S 2003 http://www.style.com/fashionshows/co...S2003RTW-HLANG Nobody really knew what to make of it... orange bondage straps, peek-a-boo holes cut into tank tops. BUT, we all really wanted to try. 1. Hedi Slimane for Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche Pour Homme AW 2000 http://www.youtube.com/watch?gl=FR&hl=fr&v=r-RknaCEyXo http://www.youtube.com/watch?gl=FR&hl=fr&v=1GSNb-0fiYQ Started off the decade and I'm not sure anybody ever topped it. I remember being floored by the collection, the silhouette, the fabrics, everything. Totally made me rethink how I could dress and, if you look at GQ or other mags from 2000 and how "grandpa" things looked, you'll realize what an impact it made.
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post #2 of 51
8/30/10 at 12:14am
http://www.firstview.com/collection.php?id=11104 http://www.firstview.com/collection.php?id=11243 McQueen FW06 Runway and Backstage hi-res pics. I've been compiling a list of collections I want to save the pictures from (24hr pass=$20 and many of the collections they have can't be found anywhere else on the net) but I've only made it to "C" lol PS: Welcome back to SW&D
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post #3 of 51
8/30/10 at 12:23am
Junya fall 09 http://www.gq.com/fashion-shows/brief/F2009MEN-JWMEN
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post #4 of 51
8/30/10 at 12:26am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kvc06 View Post

Glad you added a Japanese designer; they were lacking from mine because I couldn't isolate a single season. I have had a lot of experience with Yohji, Junya, Commes, having lived in Japan off and on for most of this decade... but I have such trouble wearing it/making it work that I can't really isolate that ONE great "season."

So, feel free to add others. Yohji's Ultraman-sweater season (AW05, I think?) was quite neat...
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post #5 of 51
8/30/10 at 1:49am
KitonBrioni Fall '07 Interesting studies of proportion and textural layering in classical tailoring within a much grander narrative addressing themes like the luxe-thrift consumerism paradox, Wildian excess, and peer validation's hegemony in the reinforcement of existential purpose. http://whatareyouwearingtoday.blogspot.com/
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post #6 of 51
8/30/10 at 2:33am
A lot of the collections I would have chosen seem to predate catwalk shows on the internet (except behind a paywall in Firstview. Argh...) I would also put in Gucci A/W 2001 (I think that's the year?), when Tom Ford takes a page out of Dries van Noten's book and puts it into the Gucci playbook, and does "ethnic" and "travel", in black and white, making a collection that is simultaneously comfortable and elegant. I'd also put in Cloak A/W 2004: http://nymag.com/fashion/fashionshow...nrunway/cloak/ Though I personally like the more casual styles of A/W 2003 more (and indeed, I have more pieces from 2003), 2004 was the breakout season for Cloak, the dark tailoring and a gothic feel of which is still influential today. I'll also put in Junya Watanabe A/W 2003, which marked his first collaboration with Lewis leathers. I think that that collection really was some of his best work in terms of balance between nostalgia, wearability, and kitsch. I feel that a lot of the recent collections don't really get that balance right.
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post #7 of 51
8/30/10 at 3:42am
this is a 5 star thread. dont know how i feel abt tom ford tx t hough
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post #8 of 51
8/30/10 at 6:47am
Great thread, and thanks for providing a full top 10 list. I don't know if I could do it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rach2jlc View Post
Yohji's Ultraman-sweater season (AW05, I think?) was quite neat...
Ultraman is AW04, same season he did the collaboration with Ryo Matsuoka. Not one of my favorite collections though it had some spectacular pieces. I actually prefer AW05, which I personally would place somewhere at the top among the YYPH collections though I don't know if I could choose one favorite.
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post #9 of 51
8/30/10 at 8:52am
Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2002

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m51_3...ayer_embedded#

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post #10 of 51
8/30/10 at 12:01pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by LA Guy View Post
I would also put in Gucci A/W 2001

That was an EXCELLENT collection. I can peruse and try and find some pics. I tried to pick just one designer/brand, and so went with "Texas" from Gucci just because I found it such an interesting idea, such a change of pace from the norm.

Quote:
Originally Posted by asobu View Post
Ultraman is AW04, same season he did the collaboration with Ryo Matsuoka. Not one of my favorite collections though it had some spectacular pieces. I actually prefer AW05, which I personally would place somewhere at the top among the YYPH collections though I don't know if I could choose one favorite.

Thanks for the info! It's hard for me to pick one Yohji season, because each has similar ideas, but sort of pushed in a different direction. Except for this past winter season (or was it spring? Can't remember) which I didn't like at all, I find each Yohji season to have its own sort of allure.
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post #11 of 51
8/30/10 at 12:19pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by StephenHero View Post
KitonBrioni Fall '07

Interesting studies of proportion and textural layering in classical tailoring within a much grander narrative addressing themes like the luxe-thrift consumerism paradox, Wildian excess, and peer validation's hegemony in the reinforcement of existential purpose.


http://whatareyouwearingtoday.blogspot.com/

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post #12 of 51
8/30/10 at 12:31pm
tornado mart every year
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post #13 of 51
8/30/10 at 1:19pm
Thanks for this post, been making my way through it. AW09 was the first season I paid any attention to, so this is like a look back on the decade that I missed always good to see where your current decade is coming from! Hopefully a decade where I manage to get my hands on some nice things!
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post #14 of 51
8/30/10 at 1:30pm
Jil SS05, nothing special IMO. Raf debut at Jil, FW06, I loved that shit, easily in my top ten. It might be easier to do a list like this, just to one best collection for each year, whether it be SS or FW.
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post #15 of 51
8/30/10 at 4:05pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by impolyt_one View Post
Jil SS05, nothing special IMO. Raf debut at Jil, FW06, I loved that shit, easily in my top ten. It might be easier to do a list like this, just to one best collection for each year, whether it be SS or FW.
That Jil season has no lukewarm sentiments; people either loved it or they found it boring, and were thrilled to see Raf. I was the opposite; I disliked the silhouette, the proportions, everything about the Raf season. In fact, I don't think I've owned anything from any of the Raf seasons, despite having had dozens of things from Jil Jil, Milan V. Jil, and Roberto Menichetti Jil. As well, I think the Jil stuff, as with most Jil Jil, needed to be seen/tried on in person. It didn't "show" well, and the details, neat fabrics, and cuts were best tried on or touched in the stores. In any case, I think it is neat to see who likes Raf Jil and Jil Jil; it reveals a lot about the aesthetic tastes of the person and where their fashion "roots" were. For me, it started with old Jil, Lang, and Prada in the 1990's... with that minimal, odd fabric, distinctive silhouette.
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