Ok, j asked me for an update so here it goes. When I started the project I was hoping to get a jacket with a finish a lot like filson's oil cloth jackets. I didn't, not yet anyway. I did learn quite a bit though. My jacket right now is very soft, has the look of damp denim (no sheen, just very dark) and smells of beeswax. I'll post a picture if anyone wants but there's nothing really to show. The finsh is too soft to get any of the cool 'cracking' that a filson jacket would show. It turns out that the ratio of beeswax to linseed oil is very important (I found a good link about it on a mountain man site but lost it) The main reaon to add beeswax is to increase the flexibility of the cloth at a loss of some durability of the finish. In very cold weather a linseed only finish will actually get hard enough that the cloth will break when bent. The colder the climate for the coat is, the more beeswax you add. If I was somewhere up north my jacket might be ideal, but I'm in Texas. I haven't had a chance to wear the coat too much over the winter, maybe 20-30 days of wear. It does keep off the rain for the most part. It's much more water resistant than water proof. You'd get wet in a downpour but it keeps you dry from the car to the store and that sort of thing. I'm going to re-do the finish sometime this summer and will probably use little if any beeswax, just relying on what's already in the coat. I thought of washing it first or doing a very hot water soak to get out some fo the wax and I still might, I haven't decided. I'm hoping through time to eventually get a finish I like better and I think a harder finish will also repel water a bit better. If anyone wanted to try this themseves I'd recommend using half the beeswax that I used in the first post. This whole waxing business is more an art than a hard science which is why loggers and sailors and those in the far north and the south had much different recipies most of which were lost when clothing started getting rubberized and the old timers died away.