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The Despos Thread - Page 22

post #316 of 366
Looking at Furosemide's pics makes me realize I need to lose weight. Man, what is your drop?
post #317 of 366


here is a suit chris made for me last year for my wedding. I asked for a black peak lapel. never did take photos of the fittings.
post #318 of 366
Those tie knots. confused.gif
post #319 of 366
Quote:
Originally Posted by apropos View Post

Those tie knots. confused.gif
That was my one regret at my wedding. I had bought a brand new tie from Barney's, and it was thicker than I usually wear, and had the damnedest time trying to get that perfect dimple that looks effortless. I failed. But aside from those in the know, no one noticed....except me!
post #320 of 366
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dempsy444 View Post

Looking at Furosemide's pics makes me realize I need to lose weight. Man, what is your drop?
Don't recall, but this is one of the reasons, among many others, why I go bespoke, even if it means I can only afford three pieces as opposed to 10 ill-fitting and uncomfortable ones.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dempsy444 View Post



here is a suit chris made for me last year for my wedding. I asked for a black peak lapel. never did take photos of the fittings.

This is awesome. I'm thinking about my next commission either being a peak or a DB.
post #321 of 366
Quote:
Originally Posted by furosemide View Post

Don't recall, but this is one of the reasons, among many others, why I go bespoke, even if it means I can only afford three pieces as opposed to 10 ill-fitting and uncomfortable ones.
This is awesome. I'm thinking about my next commission either being a peak or a DB.

Yeah, I see a DB in my future too. mid gray chalk stripe maybe.
post #322 of 366
Quote:
Originally Posted by furosemide View Post

Don't recall, but this is one of the reasons, among many others, why I go bespoke, even if it means I can only afford three pieces as opposed to 10 ill-fitting and uncomfortable ones.
This is awesome. I'm thinking about my next commission either being a peak or a DB.

QFT. Though my next commission is definitely going to be an odd jacket of some sort.
post #323 of 366
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dempsy444 View Post

Yeah, I see a DB in my future too. mid gray chalk stripe maybe.

Flannel DB would be boss. Saw and old pic of Jeffrey D's flannel DB and I've been obsessed with it since.
post #324 of 366
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dempsy444 View Post



here is a suit chris made for me last year for my wedding. I asked for a black peak lapel. never did take photos of the fittings.

 

Looks great, and congratulations on your wedding!  I was curious how the suit feels, on the spectrum from soft (Rubinacci, Kiton) to structured (Huntsman, Brioni)?  Would you say there is a house style (like A&S), or is there a lot of flexibility (like Henry Poole)?

post #325 of 366
Quote:
Originally Posted by furosemide View Post

Flannel DB would be boss. Saw and old pic of Jeffrey D's flannel DB and I've been obsessed with it since.

I just googled that pic. That's an awesome suit!
Quote:
Originally Posted by CrimsonSox View Post

Looks great, and congratulations on your wedding!  I was curious how the suit feels, on the spectrum from soft (Rubinacci, Kiton) to structured (Huntsman, Brioni)?  Would you say there is a house style (like A&S), or is there a lot of flexibility (like Henry Poole)?

Thanks, Crimson. I would say Chris is very flexible. I never got the impression that he had a house style, and he certainly didn't approach me with a pre defined idea of how his suits uniformly look. It was more about getting to know me and my taste, what I would be wearing the suit for, and him understanding what would flatter me best. One of the things I discovered in Chris pretty quickly is he has a very good eye and a particularly strong sense of balance and proportion and he devoted a lot of energy into getting those elements right in the suit.

The suit feels great! It's a light structure with great fluidness and a very comfortable fitted shoulder.
Edited by Dempsy444 - 8/4/13 at 9:52am
post #326 of 366

It's often overlooked, but one of the greatest advantages of high-level bespoke is the back of the suit.  Many times people will post pictures of RTW, and while the front appears smooth and fitted, the back will be a mess.  Or if the back is clean, it will not trace the body's lines with the closeness and suppleness of bespoke.  From the side, a bespoke back will have a subtle S shape, flowing over the blades with extra fullness, then hugging the small of the back.  Straight on, it will have more of a )( shape as it curves inward around the sides of the waist.  A good back distinguishes bespoke from much of RTW.

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

This thread is well worth bumping, so I thought I'd share this series of articles by Stephen Pulvirent, the author behind The Simply Refined (one of the best blogs around right now, in my opinion)


Part I: Measurements and Styling
Part II: First Basted Fitting
Part III: Second Basted Fitting
Part IV: Final Fitting

Bonus: A Profile on Chris Despos

And now, for some photographs:

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post #327 of 366
Quote:
Originally Posted by CrimsonSox View Post

It's often overlooked, but one of the greatest advantages of high-level bespoke is the back of the suit.  Many times people will post pictures of RTW, and while the front appears smooth and fitted, the back will be a mess.  Or if the back is clean, it will not trace the body's lines with the closeness and suppleness of bespoke.  From the side, a bespoke back will have a subtle S shape, flowing over the blades with extra fullness, then hugging the small of the back.  Straight on, it will have more of a )( shape as it curves inward around the sides of the waist.  A good back distinguishes bespoke from much of RTW.



I agree. I definitely got that in my suit and you certainly can see it in furosemide's. i doubt you can get that from any RTW. The other thing I would add is the shoulder, which I think is even harder for even good tailors to do than the back.

For example, right before I discovered Chris I commissioned a suit from Huntsman. Huntsman did a nice job with back getting that S you refer to, but they struggled with the shoulder. Stephen mentions it in his article, but Chris has figured something out about the shoulder that makes a big difference in fit, look and comfort.
post #328 of 366



This is going to be fun
post #329 of 366
Quote:
Originally Posted by furosemide View Post

That was my one regret at my wedding. I had bought a brand new tie from Barney's, and it was thicker than I usually wear, and had the damnedest time trying to get that perfect dimple that looks effortless. I failed. But aside from those in the know, no one noticed....except me!

Don't despair. The ease of making a dimple is genetically predetermined, like the ability to
parallel park. I enjoy both gifts, but eschewed a career in valet parking.
post #330 of 366
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695

Chris, these sleeves make me very happy. Awesome job.
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