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The Despos Thread - Page 18

post #256 of 376
Quote:
Originally Posted by james_timothy View Post


Now, for the next request- get someone to take a photo outside today, on this beautiful fall day in Chicago!

Beautiful? It's 50 degrees out!
post #257 of 376
Layer, man, layer.
post #258 of 376
Quote:
Originally Posted by mktitsworth View Post

I entirely agree, and will also add that Chris is wonderful to work with. I've been trying to learn as much as I can since getting here, but when working with him, rather than try to give some technical definition, thus far I've been able to tell him the sort of thing I want to achieve and what I see, and he is able to interpret that into adjustments and changes there during the fitting that bring up exactly the things that I want.
This is my first suit from Chris, though I would imagine you're talking to furosemide.

I agree whole-heartedly. The experience working with Chris has been an absolute pleasure. His skill level is beyond reproach, but what I find even more impressive is his passion for what he does. I always enjoy my visits with him for this very reason.

This is indeed the second and third jackets he made for me (simultaneously). I'll post up my first when I get a chance.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

Not really, I'm an open book.
The fronts look a bit short on the side view of the brown jacket. I wouldn't intentionally fit a jacket that way. Making a couple trousers for F now and will look at the jacket. It can be corrected if it is off.
This is the second and third jacket we made. The shoulders have no padding at all and are soft but firm, so to speak.
If F. is open to it he could link some shots of trousers he had made elsewhere from a thread he started some time ago. You will see how far he's gone.
The fronts are shaped differently because neither I or clients want to see their belt, shirt or tie below the button. Probably looks funny if you are used to other fits on here but to me, showing shirt, tie or belt is the lesser (not the cloth maker) of the two options.

What he said!
Quote:
Originally Posted by james_timothy View Post

This has to be right- the sharper shoulder just isn't what we're seeing in, for example, the cloth thread. So- Comrade, I imagine you like natural shoulders more than the sharp ones here. I do too, but sometimes when I put on a jacket with shoulders like that, I go... damn, this is nice.
And for that, thanks!
Now, for the next request- get someone to take a photo outside today, on this beautiful fall day in Chicago!

I wish I had a fiance who was willing (or had the time) to shoot pics of me frolicking in Chicago leaves with my bespoken clothes so that I can anonymously post it on a site for others to critique. Can't understand why that doesn't interest her satisfied.gif
post #259 of 376
How many times do we hear that it takes several iterations to get the fit right? This are only the second and third garment? Good job!

(I find making trousers boring. I'm thinking about having you make mine from now on...)
post #260 of 376
Quote:
Originally Posted by hymo View Post

There is the distinct possibility you have no taste.

Could be. But fellow SF members have often complimented me at meet-ups over the
past few years. Maybe they are just being nice.
post #261 of 376
Originally Posted by james_timothy

This has to be right- the sharper shoulder just isn't what we're seeing in, for example, the cloth thread. So- Comrade, I imagine you like natural shoulders more than the sharp ones here. I do too, but sometimes when I put on a jacket with shoulders like that, I go... damn, this is nice.

I have never said that about jackets with shoulders like that. I am a purist.
Besides, nature has given me big shoulders.
post #262 of 376
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Edited by F. Corbera - 10/24/11 at 3:40pm
post #263 of 376
Quote:
Originally Posted by comrade View Post

I have never said that about jackets with shoulders like that. I am a purist.
Besides, nature has given me big shoulders.

My shoulders slope worse than PG's, so one would imagine I might like them sometimes.

My memory of one of those meetups was that, other than a cast, what you wore was barely noticeable. Given the context, that should be interpreted as: dressed very well and in such a way that the man outshone the clothes.
post #264 of 376
Quote:
Originally Posted by james_timothy View Post

My shoulders slope worse than PG's, so one would imagine I might like them sometimes.
My memory of one of those meetups was that, other than a cast, what you wore was barely noticeable. Given the context, that should be interpreted as: dressed very well and in such a way that the man outshone the clothes.

Thank your for the compliment.
Evidently you missed the sword-cane.
post #265 of 376
Where does Despos stand on this matter?

http://dealbreaker.com/2011/11/wall-street-protests-2011-mens-wearhouse-draws-a-line-in-the-sand/#more-57479
post #266 of 376
This thread is well worth bumping, so I thought I'd share this series of articles by Stephen Pulvirent, the author behind The Simply Refined (one of the best blogs around right now, in my opinion)


Part I: Measurements and Styling
Part II: First Basted Fitting
Part III: Second Basted Fitting
Part IV: Final Fitting

Bonus: A Profile on Chris Despos

And now, for some photographs:

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695

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post #267 of 376
Quote:
Originally Posted by comrade View Post


I certainly lack the sophisticated analytical capabilities of these and several other of the learned commentators in this thread, but the one characteristic of this example I do not like, are the Shoulders. In fact, if I recall correctly, in earlier posts on the Depos oeuvre over the years, I never seem to like the shoulders. Nor do I really like Despos garments in general, despite the very high regard for him in this forum. They're really not to my taste.

 I know this was posted quite a while ago but now that the thread has been revived I feel like I have to reply. Despos' shoulder work looks awesome. The jacket that was dissected by a tailor (link was posted some pages back) does have great looking (and well made) shoulders. And I'm sure he's able to make anything you specify...

post #268 of 376
Chris is an excellent tailor, but an even better barista.
post #269 of 376

Hi All

Chris Despos was responding to a psoter about the front not showing the shirt and tie underneath, this is a common problem with a lot of of made to measure suits. This is generated from the neck point. Straightening a coat will move and swing the forepart  away towards the chest straightening the front edge and allowing the chest to have more definition and accentuating a narrower waist. It also allows the buttons to button up more easily. However it is much harder to fit . I am surprised this point, of what seems to be referred to as "open quarters" by the previous poster that Chris was responding to has not been stressed more by some of the forums experts. A straightened coat really was the culmination of 100 years of tailoring from the more frock coat origins of the suit. I had not heard of open quarters referred to in any of may tailor and cutter magazines going back to the 50's or in my collection of Cutting books going back to 1890's including JP Thorntons 1st and 2nd Editions, Caxtons The Modern Tailor Clothier.Outfitter 1st Editions onwards. So where does the term come from please. A few ex Savile Row tailors in their seventies and eighties I have talked to have not heard of the term. Where does it come from please?. When someone prefers an "open quarters" suit, most suits in the world would be like that as they are factory made as opposed to made by a tailor, cut by a cutter who providing they have the skill would tend to make a straighter suit. It is a point of difference in my opinion, that should be celebrated more as a sign of a quality cut., 

I had my first younger customer the other day, who wanted an ill fitting suit just like the one he had on, tight all over, short so that the trousers look like daipers from beneath the coat, crooked with no chest, and so tight across the half back that horizontal lines appear  across the back of the coat, like so many of the coats young and mature seem to wear asking for advice in the fit feedback threads. I am going to employ Jeffery D's pagoda shoulder instruction as I will need to find more length and maintain the illusion of he narrow shoulder. To do ottherwise and fit what I think is correct will be to lose a customer and to certainly get offside with his young partner. 

Brendon

post #270 of 376
I didn't read all of that, but straightening a neckpoint seems to throw more cloth towards the scye making the chest larger, not trimmer as you suggest. I think simply adjusting the front edge at a first fitting could fix a tie showing below the button point. I don't think adjusting a neck point is needed for that. Just thinking out loud.
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