Hi All
Chris Despos was responding to a psoter about the front not showing the shirt and tie underneath, this is a common problem with a lot of of made to measure suits. This is generated from the neck point. Straightening a coat will move and swing the forepart away towards the chest straightening the front edge and allowing the chest to have more definition and accentuating a narrower waist. It also allows the buttons to button up more easily. However it is much harder to fit . I am surprised this point, of what seems to be referred to as "open quarters" by the previous poster that Chris was responding to has not been stressed more by some of the forums experts. A straightened coat really was the culmination of 100 years of tailoring from the more frock coat origins of the suit. I had not heard of open quarters referred to in any of may tailor and cutter magazines going back to the 50's or in my collection of Cutting books going back to 1890's including JP Thorntons 1st and 2nd Editions, Caxtons The Modern Tailor Clothier.Outfitter 1st Editions onwards. So where does the term come from please. A few ex Savile Row tailors in their seventies and eighties I have talked to have not heard of the term. Where does it come from please?. When someone prefers an "open quarters" suit, most suits in the world would be like that as they are factory made as opposed to made by a tailor, cut by a cutter who providing they have the skill would tend to make a straighter suit. It is a point of difference in my opinion, that should be celebrated more as a sign of a quality cut.,
I had my first younger customer the other day, who wanted an ill fitting suit just like the one he had on, tight all over, short so that the trousers look like daipers from beneath the coat, crooked with no chest, and so tight across the half back that horizontal lines appear across the back of the coat, like so many of the coats young and mature seem to wear asking for advice in the fit feedback threads. I am going to employ Jeffery D's pagoda shoulder instruction as I will need to find more length and maintain the illusion of he narrow shoulder. To do ottherwise and fit what I think is correct will be to lose a customer and to certainly get offside with his young partner.
Brendon
