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The Despos Thread - Page 17

post #241 of 366
Quote:
Originally Posted by comrade View Post

I certainly lack the sophisticated analytical capabilities of these and several other of the learned commentators in this thread, but the one characteristic of this example I do not like, are the Shoulders. In fact, if I recall correctly, in earlier posts on the Depos oeuvre over the years, I never seem to like the shoulders. Nor do I really like Despos garments in general, despite the very high regard for him in this forum. They're really not to my taste.

The shoulders on a Despos suit are by far the best part; they are what make it great. There's a reason you really only find similar shoulders on very nice suits... and it creates a very sharp, distinct look. icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gificon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif For them not to be your taste, your taste must be off tounge.gif. But since it's bespoke, I'm guessing you would be able to have a different shoulder made.
post #242 of 366

the reddish brown jacket looks immaculate

post #243 of 366
Quote:
Originally Posted by furosemide View Post

Perhaps it is how I'm standing? Maybe Chris can shed some light on this.

While this is a public forum and folks should feel free to post/comment/share/shed light on their experiences [and I appreciate that you do], I do think that your wondering above would be better addressed as a private matter between maker and client.

- M
post #244 of 366
The perspective on furosemide's pictures isn't very good....at least not good enough to deliver a scrutinizing critique of the suit
post #245 of 366
Quote:
Originally Posted by mmkn View Post

While this is a public forum and folks should feel free to post/comment/share/shed light on their experiences [and I appreciate that you do], I do think that your wondering above would be better addressed as a private matter between maker and client.
- M

I just meant perhaps he can talk more about the actual technical details of what the posters were discussing regarding the armscythe, etc. Or perhaps it may be better addressed in the Tailor thread. I am in no way knowledgeable enough to respond, and in fact find no problems with it whatsoever. All I know is, I love the damn thing. I've only worn it a handful of times, and it may be psychological, but I swear I'm getting double takes walking around the building.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Knowledge is King View Post

The perspective on furosemide's pictures isn't very good....at least not good enough to deliver a scrutinizing critique of the suit

Yeah, I was actually quite surprised that people haven't commented on this already. I have a poor digital camera, certainly not on par with what most people seem to be using for their pics, and I thought this would come up earlier than it has. In any case, it's the best I got. Overall, I just wanted to post some pics of Despos' stuff in the wild, as there seems to be a clear dearth of those willing to do so (his other clients likely have much less time on their hands!). Frankly, I did not mean to post the pics as a "Please critique my jacket" post. Though I suppose on this forum that is a baseline inevitability, and I welcome all comments. I just wanted to put his stuff out there for others to see. I've had several different MTM and bespoke trials, and I can say hands down that Chris' stuff is the best I've tried! The thing that is most lacking in the pics, is how it actually feels and moves with me. I've had so many pieces made by others that are stiff, or not lightweight enough, or too structured, on top of the usual issues with suiting. With Chris' stuff, it is both aesthetically pleasing (at least to me), AND extremely comfortable to wear. So while I'm no tailor and I have no idea about the technical aspects, I would certainly consider myself a somewhat experienced consumer of MTM and bespoke suiting, and Despos is King! icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif
post #246 of 366
So were these the first garments Chris made for you?
post #247 of 366
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post #248 of 366
Quote:
Originally Posted by sellahi22 View Post

Would be very interesting to hear Despos's views on certain aspects of these garments.
To me, the trousers are a bit off. Your calves are large and/or bow backward (don't know the technical term) and this seems to be obstructing a clean fall.
Also something is off about the front of the jackets. The buttoning point is rather high, and something seems "sharp" about the way the quarters open up. My eyes are also drawn to the inconsistent angles of the quarters vs. the patch pocket corners. I would prefer a longer front (as compared to the back in the side view).
Overall these are just technical iGent nitpicks of the photos, but the overall silhouette and fit of the jacket is very nice, especially the shoulders.

What is all this babbling about?
post #249 of 366
Quote:
Originally Posted by hymo View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by sellahi22 View Post

Would be very interesting to hear Despos's views on certain aspects of these garments.
To me, the trousers are a bit off. Your calves are large and/or bow backward (don't know the technical term) and this seems to be obstructing a clean fall.
Also something is off about the front of the jackets. The buttoning point is rather high, and something seems "sharp" about the way the quarters open up. My eyes are also drawn to the inconsistent angles of the quarters vs. the patch pocket corners. I would prefer a longer front (as compared to the back in the side view).
Overall these are just technical iGent nitpicks of the photos, but the overall silhouette and fit of the jacket is very nice, especially the shoulders.

What is all this babbling about?

No idea what he's on about regarding the buttoning point and the quarters, but he's right about the calves thing.
post #250 of 366
Quote:
Originally Posted by comrade View Post

I certainly lack the sophisticated analytical capabilities of these and several other of the learned commentators in this thread, but the one characteristic of this example I do not like, are the Shoulders. In fact, if I recall correctly, in earlier posts on the Depos oeuvre over the years, I never seem to like the shoulders. Nor do I really like Despos garments in general, despite the very high regard for him in this forum. They're really not to my taste.

There is the distinct possibility you have no taste.
post #251 of 366
This discussion is ridiculous. First of all, the OP is clearly standing with his arms and legs slightly spread apart, so you are getting a somewhat distorteted sense of how the clothes would normally look.

It's a small photo, so I can't really nitpick, but the jacket looks perfectly fine to me. It may not be to my personal preference, but I didn't pick my tailor over Despos because he is objectively better. The simple truth is that Despos does not adhere to the quasi-Neapolitan aesthetic that currently rules much of SF. Whereas places like Rubinacci or Solito will employ soft, natural shoulders on everything they make, Chris has specifically state in the past that he modifies his approach depending on the client. Objectively, I see nothing wrong with the shoulders--or how the quarters open. It's just overall a leaner, 'sharper' cut. Nothing wrong or bad.
post #252 of 366
Quote:
Originally Posted by furosemide View Post

...on top of the usual issues with suiting. With Chris' stuff, it is both aesthetically pleasing (at least to me), AND extremely comfortable to wear.

I entirely agree, and will also add that Chris is wonderful to work with. I've been trying to learn as much as I can since getting here, but when working with him, rather than try to give some technical definition, thus far I've been able to tell him the sort of thing I want to achieve and what I see, and he is able to interpret that into adjustments and changes there during the fitting that bring up exactly the things that I want.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jefferyd View Post

So were these the first garments Chris made for you?

This is my first suit from Chris, though I would imagine you're talking to furosemide.
post #253 of 366
Quote:
Originally Posted by mmkn View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by furosemide View Post

Perhaps it is how I'm standing? Maybe Chris can shed some light on this.

While this is a public forum and folks should feel free to post/comment/share/shed light on their experiences [and I appreciate that you do], I do think that your wondering above would be better addressed as a private matter between maker and client.

- M

Not really, I'm an open book.
The fronts look a bit short on the side view of the brown jacket. I wouldn't intentionally fit a jacket that way. Making a couple trousers for F now and will look at the jacket. It can be corrected if it is off.

This is the second and third jacket we made. The shoulders have no padding at all and are soft but firm, so to speak.

If F. is open to it he could link some shots of trousers he had made elsewhere from a thread he started some time ago. You will see how far he's gone.

The fronts are shaped differently because neither I or clients want to see their belt, shirt or tie below the button. Probably looks funny if you are used to other fits on here but to me, showing shirt, tie or belt is the lesser (not the cloth maker) of the two options.
post #254 of 366
Quote:
Originally Posted by comrade View Post

the one characteristic of this example I do not like, are the Shoulders. In fact, if I recall correctly, in earlier posts on the Depos oeuvre over the years, I never seem to like the shoulders.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

he simple truth is that Despos does not adhere to the quasi-Neapolitan aesthetic that currently rules much of SF. Whereas places like Rubinacci or Solito will employ soft, natural shoulders on everything they make, Chris has specifically state in the past that he modifies his approach depending on the client. Objectively, I see nothing wrong with the shoulders--or how the quarters open. It's just overall a leaner, 'sharper' cut. Nothing wrong or bad.

This has to be right- the sharper shoulder just isn't what we're seeing in, for example, the cloth thread. So- Comrade, I imagine you like natural shoulders more than the sharp ones here. I do too, but sometimes when I put on a jacket with shoulders like that, I go... damn, this is nice.
Quote:
Originally Posted by furosemide View Post

Overall, I just wanted to post some pics of Despos' stuff in the wild, as there seems to be a clear dearth of those willing to do so (his other clients likely have much less time on their hands!).

And for that, thanks!

Now, for the next request- get someone to take a photo outside today, on this beautiful fall day in Chicago!
post #255 of 366
I actually was just at his shop (in Dallas) about an hour ago. Tony from Gaziano & Girling was there and fitted me for a beautiful pair of monks. The sartorial highlight of my life thus far (which I realize is pretty sad). Anyway, the fact that Despos was the one place in the South G&G made a stop speaks volumes about Chris.
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