The Despos Thread - Page 12

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

Men of the Ripped Cloth?


- B

Originally Posted by Despos

You like it...the sleeves

Originally Posted by OttoSkadelig

not in whether a sleeve line falls straight without distortion, which is table stakes for good bespoke. one would think.

Originally Posted by emptym

^One day, I would like to experience the wisdom of you two.

Originally Posted by jefferyd

Sleeves are something that the vast majority of us struggle a bit (or a lot) with, the back of them in particular.

Originally Posted by George

Fuckin' love fests...

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

Many of those old photographs of yachtie were also taken, I believe, while he was on a fitness improvement strategy that included weight loss. He was holding off alterations/recuts until he was closer to his goals.

One of the things to look for in yachtie's pictures is that he is quite knowledgable and discerning about features or configurations that come from an earlier age. There is nothing RTW about his look (except the Aldens that typically shod his feet,) and that speaks well to Despos's ability to accommodate a client with ideas of his own. That's one of the things that custom or bespoke tailoring can be at it's best.

- B

Originally Posted by George

Fuckin' love fests...

Originally Posted by OttoSkadelig

am i the only one to think that this particular one doesn't particularly flatter the wearer? it hangs stiffly and isn't sufficiently shaped -- an overly boxy, sack-like aesthetic that doesn't do the wearer any favors, particularly since he's on the short side.

possibly a stylistic choice by the customer rather than of the tailor, but not an example that i would have picked for a flattering cut.

Originally Posted by emptym

^If you click the link, you'll read that Yachtie requested a clean look. It's not what I prefer, but I think he looks great in it. And imo, to judge how flattering the cut is, you'd have to know what his body looks like, which we don't. Although, iirc, he has posted that he's not in the best of shape.

Originally Posted by OttoSkadelig

fair enough, let me rephrase. i don't think it makes him look particularly good, no matter what his body type, and i still think the jacket hangs like a stiff "A".

it is possible that the real issue is that he's not cut out for a DB.

Originally Posted by OttoSkadelig

probably to some degree. the harsh lighting also probably doesn't help overall.

but angle and lighting aside, you can see that the width of the jacket at the bottom of the skirt is practically as wide as his shoulders, which contributes to the "A" effect.

the skirt also seems to flare out from the button point. which makes me wonder if a lower button point, or one that is 1 cm less tight, would have prevented the "A" flare, and whether a slightly more built-up shoulder would have helped balance things out.

the stiffness is likely the result of the structure.

in the grand scheme of things i suspect that it's primarily the wearer's physique that imposed a certain number of constraints, and despos did the best he could to work around them.

regardless, it's still not an example that i would have picked. i found the one posted earlier in this thread (p2 or thereabouts) much more compelling, even though, admittedly, it's on a mannequin.

despos, it would be great if you could comment. if it's awkward because you don't want to publicly comment on a client, that's perfectly understandable. but if i am making incorrect calls on the technicalities as i see them, your perspective would be valuable.

Originally Posted by George

Originally Posted by OttoSkadelig

and?

the sky is blue.

Originally Posted by George

Well, it's not how he would normally stand is it?

When you are being fitted an experience tailor will try to get you to stand as naturally as the situation allows.

Originally Posted by mafoofan

The danger of judging a piece of tailoring by a still picture in terms of something like "stiffness" is that whatever you observe might have nothing to do with the tailoring. It's simply too vague and subjective a measure.

Originally Posted by mafoofan

I think the key is that it's hard to find anything 'wrong' with the suit. Sleeves like that, for example, are pretty rare in RTW.

Originally Posted by George

IIRC,that coat of Yachtie's pictured is made out of Harrison's Moonbeam cloth which is very soft.

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

Many of those old photographs of yachtie were also taken, I believe, while he was on a fitness improvement strategy that included weight loss. He was holding off alterations/recuts until he was closer to his goals.

Aportnoy did something similar, and in the process replaced a lot of RTW/MTM pieces with bespoke numbers.

Online candid photographs of the work of good tailors are few and far between. The impression that they give, particularly for those makers not at the higher volume marks, will be skewed to their most enthusiastic vanity photography customers. I suppose that can work for or against a particular tailor.

One of the things to look for in yachtie's pictures is that he is quite knowledgable and discerning about features or configurations that come from an earlier age. There is nothing RTW about his look (except the Aldens that typically shod his feet,) and that speaks well to Despos's ability to accommodate a client with ideas of his own. That's one of the things that custom or bespoke tailoring can be at it's best.

- B

Originally Posted by OttoSkadelig

guys -- i thought we were debating and admiring the finer points of the work an acclaimed tailor, no? i don't hear anyone saying that it looks like RTW. we are well past that point in the conversation.

saw similar comments in the Diller debacle thread and i'm afraid i don't get it. surely we need to apply a higher bar in these discussions than a blunt (and binary) "doesn't look like RTW"? i'm more interested in the finer judgment calls that a tailor has to make when confronted with challenging circumstances. not in whether a sleeve line falls straight without distortion, which, as i said in the Diller thread, is table stakes for good bespoke. one would think.

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

"Out, out, out damn divots we say!"



"Oh, hi girls...nice job on the divots. You, too, Fluffy. Back to the match."




- B