If I may contribute here. This style of coat is the genesis of the Polo coat worn today. The wrap coat pictured is cut a size 42 and fitted to wear over a jacket. The person wearing the wrap coat is barely a 38 chest and is wearing a shirt and no jacket. It is a rather fitted coat when seen on the proper sized person rather than the loose fit of the original article. The belt is suggested to be tied in a manner that does not hang as in the picture. The cashmere is 13 ounce jacketing and not topcoat weight. This coat was made for a fashion show at a Custom Tailors & Designers meeting. The jacket concept was taken from this article about the influence of the sport of Polo on everyday fashion.
"The most distinguished garment of all is the polo coat itself. Double-breasted and patch-pocketed, with a half-belted back, frame pockets, set-in sleeves with cuffs, and swelled seams, the camel-hair polo is the aristocrat of topcoats.
At the end of the 19th century, polo players began to devise a casual robe-like coat to throw over their shoulders between periods of play (called chukkers) in a match, to keep warm while waiting for the game to resume. At first any old sports jacket or overcoat was pressed into service, but then players started to develop ideas about how the coat should function, and these ideas came to be called "wait" coats by English tailors. Early on they were indeed just like bathrobes: an enveloping blanket-like garment with wide sleeves, and a sash closure instead of buttons. In the 1920s, when international polo matches began being held on Long Island, the English wait coats did not go unnoticed.
There was definite swagger and cavalier deshabille about them, combining as they did the comfort of a robe, the warmth of a topcoat, and the aura of an expensive and elegant sport. Highly appealing to undergraduates of the era, these new "polo" coats were soon seen sauntering down Princeton's Nassau Street, and around New Haven and Cambridge. By 1930 the polo coat had evolved to what it is today, and - as sure a sartorial barometer of success as you could find -- it was the most popular outer coat at the Yale-Princeton football game that year.
It's success can be accounted for by the peculiarly American penchant for clothes that combine elegance with comfort, that casual dressiness that has always typified the college campus. It also puts polo gear in the forefront of the casual revolution we are now experiencing."
If you want to critique something lets first start by acknowledging what it is meant to be and then how well it has been executed or how awful it is.
Have made several of these for clients. Everyone that ordered one made it up in navy or midnight blue cashmere. One client in Atlanta wanted it more "robe like" and we did it with a deep shawl collar. He was around 6'4' and slender. It was 'striking" if I do say so.
This one is 6 years old, if I did the same coat today I would make the lapel a touch wider and not use any padding in the shoulder. This coat has about a 1/4" thick pad.
I wasn't sure if I should comment but think this thread could be different from other threads by commenting. Since I am the one producing the clothes I could offer some insight into the how and why things are done when making clothes for an individual. I'll leave this up to you guys. Ask for an explanation, I will try to accommodate you. I won't be defending anything I do. It is irrelevant if you like or dislike, that is a matter of taste.
Thank you Bull for your interest in this thread.