Oxxford's New Video

"Every stitch of an Oxxford suit is hand-tailored..."

Really? My Oxxfords definitely have at least some machine-sewn seams. I'm disappointed to see Oxxford playing with the definition of "hand-tailored," just like every other manufacturer. A stitch isn't hand-tailored just because hands guided the machine that made it.

Oxxford still has as much or more handwork as any other RTW maker in the world. They don't need to stretch the truth to put themselves at the top.

Originally Posted by Pantisocrat

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I don't see being "the last one" left as a good selling point. The best products were made in times of tense competition. Being the last one just mean you're about to die off. Frankly, from the Oxxfords I've seen I don't think the patterns and shape will work for me.

If I ran Oxxford:

1.\tI would spend some serious time and some serious money working up two very good, simple patterns. I would focus almost exclusively on the upper quarter of the jacket, namely the shoulders, shoulder line, chest and the sleevehead. One pattern would have a firm, structured shoulder with a bit of slope, while the other would have a very soft, natural shoulder (perhaps classic Brooks-ish).

2.\tI would use the two basic patterns to make two more models (plus DB versions) by adjusting waists/silhouettes, gorge height, lapels (widths and shapes), button stance, quarters, skirts, etc.

3.\tI would keep the existing models for MTM and keep the 1220 program going.

4.\tI would invest some resources in personnel that could really do justice to the MTM program. I am envisioning a MTM program in NYC and Chicago with multiple fittings from a tailor/cutter with significant fitting experience and plenty of inlays to work with. I don't care if they work from block patterns so long as they drastically improve quality control and the end product.

5.\tI would actually market the company's products. This would be done with very tasteful advertising campaigns. In terms of print media, I would probably look beyond the fashion rags. None of these advertising campaigns would use the word "bespoke" and none would make outlandish claims.

6.\tLastly, I would open a tailoring school in Chicago so that the company is operating in largely the same fashion ten years from now.

If only it was actually that easy...

Originally Posted by jacnyr

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Would you feel more impressed if they said Mike Tyson or Justin Timberlake wears their suits?

Er. No. But it would be good for them if they could name at least one person known for his style -- if not an outright style icon -- and still alive who wears their clothes. That's what the big name bespoke houses tend to do: go back into the illustrious past and link it to more contemporary clients.

And whether I'm impressed or not is really not the point: I wouldn't buy their products simply because someone else did, 50 years ago. But their marketing people should ask themselves whether anyone will be impressed by Oxxford's present-day products because some famous people used to like them in the days of black-and-white TV.

Originally Posted by jsherman02

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I like the video...made me want to go home and hug my Oxxford jackets...

Yes, mine as well. Very nice video.

Originally Posted by S. Able

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If I ran Oxxford:

1.\tI would spend some serious time and some serious money working up two very good, simple patterns. I would focus almost exclusively on the upper quarter of the jacket, namely the shoulders, shoulder line, chest and the sleevehead. One pattern would have a firm, structured shoulder with a bit of slope, while the other would have a very soft, natural shoulder (perhaps classic Brooks-ish).

2.\tI would use the two basic patterns to make two more models (plus DB versions) by adjusting waists/silhouettes, gorge height, lapels (widths and shapes), button stance, quarters, skirts, etc.

3.\tI would keep the existing models for MTM and keep the 1220 program going.

4.\tI would invest some resources in personnel that could really do justice to the MTM program. I am envisioning a MTM program in NYC and Chicago with multiple fittings from a tailor/cutter with significant fitting experience and plenty of inlays to work with. I don't care if they work from block patterns so long as they drastically improve quality control and the end product.

5.\tI would actually market the company's products. This would be done with very tasteful advertising campaigns. In terms of print media, I would probably look beyond the fashion rags. None of these advertising campaigns would use the word "bespoke" and none would make outlandish claims.

6.\tLastly, I would open a tailoring school in Chicago so that the company is operating in largely the same fashion ten years from now.

If only it was actually that easy...
This is a very good list - how about the prices? Would you change them?

Originally Posted by whnay.

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This is a very good list - how about the prices? Would you change them?

Good question. I think purely based upon the product, their two piece suits are fairly priced somewhere in the neighborhood of $3500-$3,600. I was trying to use the non-NYC American custom tailors as a general point of reference. I have absolutely no idea of the economics of the industry, but if I could, I would try to price the intro fabrics around $3,300. The idea would be to reach out to some of the Isaia/Belvest customers to help foster brand recognition. I think there is no need for a price ceiling for a product like this. If people want stuff from fabric that costs $200 a yard, so be it. The company should just pass that additional cost along to the customer. My knock on the Italian RTW makers has less to do with their product and more to do with their vanity pricing.

While I want attractive pricing, I would avoid the South American fabric being produced and sold by some of the other IAG companies. That stuff could be a goodwill killer.

Without trying to hijack this thread but can anyone shed some light on the fit of a Oxxford "Addison" suit? Shoulder padding, armhole height, waist and chest suppression etc. I think this model was made solely for the SF store Wilkes Bashford. It seems that many here feel that most Oxxford's are a bit boxy. But I suppose that's dependent on the model. Hence my question. I'm trying to gauge if it would work with my body shape: 5'9", 165lb with a 33" waist.

Originally Posted by Orgetorix

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"Every stitch of an Oxxford suit is hand-tailored..."

Really? My Oxxfords definitely have at least some machine-sewn seams. I'm disappointed to see Oxxford playing with the definition of "hand-tailored," just like every other manufacturer. A stitch isn't hand-tailored just because hands guided the machine that made it.

Oxxford still has as much or more handwork as any other RTW maker in the world. They don't need to stretch the truth to put themselves at the top.

I don't know for sure, but maybe their Bespoke is hand tailored.

Originally Posted by jaygee

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Without trying to hijack this thread but can anyone shed some light on the fit of a Oxxford "Addison" suit? Shoulder padding, armhole height, waist and chest suppression etc. I think this model was made solely for the SF store Wilkes Bashford. It seems that many here feel that most Oxxford's are a bit boxy. But I suppose that's dependent on the model. Hence my question. I'm trying to gauge if it would work with my body shape: 5'9", 165lb with a 33" waist.

You need to start a new thread. It might help you out better.

Originally Posted by ryoneo

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You need to start a new thread. It might help you out better.

You're absolutely right and I'll follow you're advice Ryoneo. I only raised the question because I thought members interested in Oxxford would be checking out the OP.

Originally Posted by jaygee

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Without trying to hijack this thread but can anyone shed some light on the fit of a Oxxford "Addison" suit? Shoulder padding, armhole height, waist and chest suppression etc. I think this model was made solely for the SF store Wilkes Bashford. It seems that many here feel that most Oxxford's are a bit boxy. But I suppose that's dependent on the model. Hence my question. I'm trying to gauge if it would work with my body shape: 5'9", 165lb with a 33" waist.

Your physique is indentical to mine. While I don't know about the Addison model, the size 40 Crittenden (also from Wilkes) and Diplomat (Saks) both fit me perfectly.

Originally Posted by S. Able

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If I ran Oxxford:

1.\tI would spend some serious time and some serious money working up two very good, simple patterns. I would focus almost exclusively on the upper quarter of the jacket, namely the shoulders, shoulder line, chest and the sleevehead. One pattern would have a firm, structured shoulder with a bit of slope, while the other would have a very soft, natural shoulder (perhaps classic Brooks-ish).
They have both of those already and will do ANY type of shoulder.

2.\tI would use the two basic patterns to make two more models (plus DB versions) by adjusting waists/silhouettes, gorge height, lapels (widths and shapes), button stance, quarters, skirts, etc.

3.\tI would keep the existing models for MTM and keep the 1220 program going.
The 1220 models (A & B) are also available in HQ

4.\tI would invest some resources in personnel that could really do justice to the MTM program. I am envisioning a MTM program in NYC and Chicago with multiple fittings from a tailor/cutter with significant fitting experience and plenty of inlays to work with. I don't care if they work from block patterns so long as they drastically improve quality control and the end product.
I currently do this with them, and a client has an individual pattern made starting with the basic block

5.\tI would actually market the company's products. This would be done with very tasteful advertising campaigns. In terms of print media, I would probably look beyond the fashion rags. None of these advertising campaigns would use the word "bespoke" and none would make outlandish claims. On point... my biggest obstacle of putting Oxxford on younger clientel is "old man's suit", until i actually get an A or B body on them, then it is all they will wear... most men's suitmaker's advertising is very unrealistic...wearing a suit at the beach, on a motorcycle, etc....
6.\tLastly, I would open a tailoring school in Chicago so that the company is operating in largely the same fashion ten years from now. Great idea!!!!

If only it was actually that easy...

So far for Fall, which hasn't really even started yet, I am having much interest in Oxxford HQ, I expect to have a record season with them.

Originally Posted by jaygee

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It seems that many here feel that most Oxxford's are a bit boxy. But I suppose that's dependent on the model.

This is just a plain old Onwentsia, probably the most common Oxxford model for decades, and I don't think it's boxy.

Originally Posted by S. Able

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* * * I have absolutely no idea of the economics of the industry * * *


Agreed.