www.moderntailor.com Custom Tailored Clothing Official Thread - Page 175

Not sure if this is applicable to moderntailor shirts, but you might want to try washing and drying your shirt to see if it shrinks before you get a new one.

Quote:

Originally Posted by althanis 


Hi, nice shirt. My suggestions:
1. Half an inch off the shoulders, they seem to be sloping off just a little bit.
2. Yep, collars and cuffs too big.
3. I think you might have a little too much material around the waist, notice the big bunching in your last photo (the one from the back. Maybe reduce by an half an inch or an inch?)
4. For the weird folding around the armpit, I think once you pull the shoulders up to where they need to be, that might alleviate some of it. Also, the sleeves themselves look a little too voluminous, so maybe reduce your bicep measurement. I wish you'd raised your arm in one of them so we could see the armhole. If it's too big, and you reduce it half an inch (but don't make it too small of it'll chaff and be uncomfortable), I think all of these 3 combined with smaller cuff should alleviate the bunching problem.
5. Front placket - the way I learnt it, a casual shirt has:
- Placket
- Pocket
- Button down collar
A formal shirt has none of the above.
I think your placket looks a little unusual on what is otherwise a nice formal shirt, but you know what, you can put anything you want on it, cause it's your shirt.
I'm no veteran, but these are the things I'd want if that was were my shirt.

Awesome, thanks a lot.

Here is a pic of my arm out: http://i.imgur.com/gsy8O.jpg

How much shorter should the bicep be, in your opinion?

Oh and would the same sort of cut (- bicep and waist size, + pocket and soft BDC) work for a casual un-tucked OCBD? I am worried if i reduce the waist too much I will get that "feminine" flared hips look if I un-tuck. 

Here is the armhole of the white shirt: http://i.imgur.com/gsy8O.jpg

How much size should be taken off the bicep?

Quote:

Originally Posted by althanis 


Try maybe half an inch? It depends on how much space you got in there. You won't get it PERFECT till your third shirt I think. Mine was good for the 1st, I went too aggressive on the second, and I'll order my third soon.
You'll want to keep your formal shirt measurements different from your casual un-tucked ones, at least that's my opinion. Apart from just the pockets, plackets, etc. it should fit differently as you point out. How different? That's up to you. But yeah, I'd do 2 sets of measurements.

Awesome thanks. For casual do you think I should leave it pretty much the same, just reduce the bicep and make the collar soft? Thats what I am leaning towards anyway.

so no coupons available right now?

Quote:

Originally Posted by negusnegas 

Thanks imwithtuxedo. Have been searching for chambray, but haven't found any online shirtmakers that stocked it.

I was looking for MTM chambray shirts too, when I found http://www.joebutton.com/

In this picture I'm wearing "The original Rebel" with a few adjustments. it's a light blue chambray cloth which is a little bit lighter than I expected. I can make close ups if you want. They also offer a grey chambray.

Sadly though, they made the cuffs too tight to properly wear a bigger watch (omega PO or speedmaster both don't fit and the ellbow pits are too tight), even though I've send them approx. the same measurements that I use on all of my tailorstore.co.uk shirts (they add different amounts to the hip, waist and chest measurements which they've declared on their page but apparently they measure their cuffs differently, too.).

Luckily their customer service is very obliging and really friendly so they guaranteed me a free replacement with bigger cuffs. Because of Chines New year it hasn't arrived yet though. In addition they gave me a 20$ coupon. Sadly though they have a really limited amount of fabrics so I don't know if I'll ever be using it.

What you can't see in the picture is, that the last button is a red one (some joe button signature BS, which I've replaced with one of the mother of pearl replacement ones)

I'm no native speaker, so I hope I was of help to you anyway.