or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › www.moderntailor.com Custom Tailored Clothing Official Thread
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

www.moderntailor.com Custom Tailored Clothing Official Thread - Page 175

post #2611 of 3282
Thanks imwithtuxedo. Have been searching for chambray, but haven't found any online shirtmakers that stocked it.
post #2612 of 3282
Quote:
Originally Posted by deveandepot1 View Post

Is there any other shipping options than DHL?

?
post #2613 of 3282

 

Here are the measurements I used (should I change any of them for next time?): http://i.imgur.com/4LHBE.png
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Here are my thoughts (correct me if I am wrong):
 
- Collar too big (go down to 39cm)
- Cuffs too big (go down to 20cm)
- There is some weird folding near the armpits (I have no idea how to fix that - Help!)
 
Overall I am happy for what I paid, and I can finally show some cuff under a blazer (I have extremely long arms).
 
Thx.
post #2614 of 3282
Quote:
Originally Posted by Combs View Post


Here are the measurements I used (should I change any of them for next time?): http://i.imgur.com/4LHBE.png



Hi, nice shirt. My suggestions:

1. Half an inch off the shoulders, they seem to be sloping off just a little bit.

2. Yep, collars and cuffs too big.

3. I think you might have a little too much material around the waist, notice the big bunching in your last photo (the one from the back. Maybe reduce by an half an inch or an inch?)

4. For the weird folding around the armpit, I think once you pull the shoulders up to where they need to be, that might alleviate some of it. Also, the sleeves themselves look a little too voluminous, so maybe reduce your bicep measurement. I wish you'd raised your arm in one of them so we could see the armhole. If it's too big, and you reduce it half an inch (but don't make it too small of it'll chaff and be uncomfortable), I think all of these 3 combined with smaller cuff should alleviate the bunching problem.

5. Front placket - the way I learnt it, a casual shirt has:
- Placket
- Pocket
- Button down collar

A formal shirt has none of the above.

I think your placket looks a little unusual on what is otherwise a nice formal shirt, but you know what, you can put anything you want on it, cause it's your shirt.

I'm no veteran, but these are the things I'd want if that was were my shirt.
post #2615 of 3282

Not sure if this is applicable to moderntailor shirts, but you might want to try washing and drying your shirt to see if it shrinks before you get a new one.

post #2616 of 3282
Quote:
Originally Posted by althanis View Post


Hi, nice shirt. My suggestions:
1. Half an inch off the shoulders, they seem to be sloping off just a little bit.
2. Yep, collars and cuffs too big.
3. I think you might have a little too much material around the waist, notice the big bunching in your last photo (the one from the back. Maybe reduce by an half an inch or an inch?)
4. For the weird folding around the armpit, I think once you pull the shoulders up to where they need to be, that might alleviate some of it. Also, the sleeves themselves look a little too voluminous, so maybe reduce your bicep measurement. I wish you'd raised your arm in one of them so we could see the armhole. If it's too big, and you reduce it half an inch (but don't make it too small of it'll chaff and be uncomfortable), I think all of these 3 combined with smaller cuff should alleviate the bunching problem.
5. Front placket - the way I learnt it, a casual shirt has:
- Placket
- Pocket
- Button down collar
A formal shirt has none of the above.
I think your placket looks a little unusual on what is otherwise a nice formal shirt, but you know what, you can put anything you want on it, cause it's your shirt.
I'm no veteran, but these are the things I'd want if that was were my shirt.


Awesome, thanks a lot.

 

Here is a pic of my arm out: http://i.imgur.com/gsy8O.jpg

 

How much shorter should the bicep be, in your opinion?

 

post #2617 of 3282

Oh and would the same sort of cut (- bicep and waist size, + pocket and soft BDC) work for a casual un-tucked OCBD? I am worried if i reduce the waist too much I will get that "feminine" flared hips look if I un-tuck. 

 

Here is the armhole of the white shirt: http://i.imgur.com/gsy8O.jpg

 

How much size should be taken off the bicep?

post #2618 of 3282
Quote:
Originally Posted by Combs View Post

Oh and would the same sort of cut (- bicep and waist size, + pocket and soft BDC) work for a casual un-tucked OCBD? I am worried if i reduce the waist too much I will get that "feminine" flared hips look if I un-tuck. 

Here is the armhole of the white shirt: http://i.imgur.com/gsy8O.jpg

How much size should be taken off the bicep?

Try maybe half an inch? It depends on how much space you got in there. You won't get it PERFECT till your third shirt I think. Mine was good for the 1st, I went too aggressive on the second, and I'll order my third soon.

You'll want to keep your formal shirt measurements different from your casual un-tucked ones, at least that's my opinion. Apart from just the pockets, plackets, etc. it should fit differently as you point out. How different? That's up to you. But yeah, I'd do 2 sets of measurements.
post #2619 of 3282
Quote:
Originally Posted by althanis View Post


Try maybe half an inch? It depends on how much space you got in there. You won't get it PERFECT till your third shirt I think. Mine was good for the 1st, I went too aggressive on the second, and I'll order my third soon.
You'll want to keep your formal shirt measurements different from your casual un-tucked ones, at least that's my opinion. Apart from just the pockets, plackets, etc. it should fit differently as you point out. How different? That's up to you. But yeah, I'd do 2 sets of measurements.


Awesome thanks. For casual do you think I should leave it pretty much the same, just reduce the bicep and make the collar soft? Thats what I am leaning towards anyway.

post #2620 of 3282
Quote:
Originally Posted by Combs View Post



Awesome thanks. For casual do you think I should leave it pretty much the same, just reduce the bicep and make the collar soft? Thats what I am leaning towards anyway.

Yeah why not, try it. My philosophy is it's difficult for me to make it worse-looking than an OTR shirt, even if it's not perfect.
post #2621 of 3282
I've heard this advice a few times, that a formal tucked-in shirt should fit differently than a casual untucked shirt.
How exactly should the fit be different?
I find that even with my shorter untucked casual shirts, I can still tuck them in fine without it coming untucked. It's not like I'm doing gymnastics in my formal shirts or something.
post #2622 of 3282
Just got mine in .. will post pictures of fit later tonight .. i only changed things about .5" in the waist and miniscule measurements in some other areas and quite a bit of the shirt changed from shirt 2 (weird).

I kept the cuffs the same size, but they seems a little bigger this go around. Also the thin buttons absolutely suck. They are much much much thinner then my demo shirt. We shall see how it hold up to shrinkage.
post #2623 of 3282

so no coupons available right now?

post #2624 of 3282
This might be a silly question, but when measuring a pre-existing shirt (for your first modern tailor order) with darts, should you allow extra room? I have a few shirts (with darts) that fit quite well and want to use them as a template but don't want to get the MT shirt too small to start. Not sure if I request darts if they take my shirt measurements and THEN add darts, etc. Also considering measuring the waist on a more conservatively cut shirt I have WITHOUT darts and then just having my tailor dart the shirt afterwords.

Any thoughts or wisecracks? wink.gif

-J
post #2625 of 3282


 

Quote:
Originally Posted by negusnegas View Post

Thanks imwithtuxedo. Have been searching for chambray, but haven't found any online shirtmakers that stocked it.

 

I was looking for MTM chambray shirts too, when I found http://www.joebutton.com/


SDC11978.jpg

 

In this picture I'm wearing "The original Rebel" with a few adjustments. it's a light blue chambray cloth which is a little bit lighter than I expected. I can make close ups if you want. They also offer a grey chambray.

Sadly though, they made the cuffs too tight to properly wear a bigger watch (omega PO or speedmaster both don't fit and the ellbow pits are too tight), even though I've send them approx. the same measurements that I use on all of my tailorstore.co.uk shirts (they add different amounts to the hip, waist and chest measurements which they've declared on their page but apparently they measure their cuffs differently, too.).

 

Luckily their customer service is very obliging and really friendly so they guaranteed me a free replacement with bigger cuffs. Because of Chines New year it hasn't arrived yet though. In addition they gave me a 20$ coupon. Sadly though they have a really limited amount of fabrics so I don't know if I'll ever be using it.

 

What you can't see in the picture is, that the last button is a red one (some joe button signature BS, which I've replaced with one of the mother of pearl replacement ones)

 

I'm no native speaker, so I hope I was of help to you anyway.

New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › www.moderntailor.com Custom Tailored Clothing Official Thread