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www.moderntailor.com Custom Tailored Clothing Official Thread - Page 162

post #2416 of 3277
Thinking I will order my first shirt from MT soon. Looked over the last pages of this thread and it appears to be recommended to measure your "best fitting shirt" instead of getting yourself measured at a tailor? Is this correct and leading people to the best results?

I'm actually excited to try this out. It's near impossible for me to find a well fitting shirt OTR.
post #2417 of 3277
Quote:
Originally Posted by JMRouse View Post

Thinking I will order my first shirt from MT soon. Looked over the last pages of this thread and it appears to be recommended to measure your "best fitting shirt" instead of getting yourself measured at a tailor? Is this correct and leading people to the best results?

I'm actually excited to try this out. It's near impossible for me to find a well fitting shirt OTR.

Like you, it is impossible for me to find OTR shirts that fit, so "best fitting shirt" was not an option for me, as all my shirts (prior to try MTM) fitted like crap. I have always just taken my own body measurements to use for all my shirts. There may be more chance of screwing up if you don't know what you're doing though.
post #2418 of 3277
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sanguis Mortuum View Post

Like you, it is impossible for me to find OTR shirts that fit, so "best fitting shirt" was not an option for me, as all my shirts (prior to try MTM) fitted like crap. I have always just taken my own body measurements to use for all my shirts. There may be more chance of screwing up if you don't know what you're doing though.

I think the closest I have found OTR has been from Tailor Stitch, but even they could use another .5 inch in the sleeves and a little more shoulder room for movement. Figure I'll base mine off one of those and add a little where needed. See what happens.
post #2419 of 3277
Quote:
Originally Posted by Beatlegeuse View Post

Usually takes anywhere from 1-2 weeks. There were some that I got really quickly, and others would sit in Customs for days. Anything past the 2-3 week range I would say is uncharacteristically slow for them.

Thank you. I hope my shipment arrives before I move on to other options.

My 'accetpable' OTR dress shirts would be:

- Non-iron pinpoint 100% cotton fabric
- Italian collar
- Dimention (using OTR general fit guideline):
*size 16 slim fit body
*size 17 neck
post #2420 of 3277
Quote:
Originally Posted by kickstart View Post

Thanks for the code. I'd like to take advantage of it but before I do could I please get a critique on the fitting of my first shirt from you guys? Would much appreciate all your advice!
Overall I'm quite happy with it but thinking about adding 1cm to the cuffs as they are quite tight and hard to wear a watch with.
Perhaps also 1cm to the shoulders? But if I add 1cm accross each shoulder will I need to take 1cm off the length of each sleeve?

Look forward to your thoughts!


I think the shoulders are ok, but you have way way too much fabric through the body. The sleeves are bunching, so when you increase the cuff circumference you'll need to shorten the sleeves themselves or they'll hang past your palm.
post #2421 of 3277
Quote:
Originally Posted by noobstyle View Post

Going to order a sample shirt using this shirt as a template. Any feedback?



Sleeve 22"
Chest/waist/hips: 17.7"
shoulder 5.6"
Yoke 15.7"
Cuff 3.7"
Arm opening 8.1"
Bicep 7.3"
Length 26.9"



Way too big in the stomach and hips.
post #2422 of 3277
Please forgive me for not reading all of the 100+ pages on this thread...I looked back at about 120 posts though and noticed 2 themes:

1) Most "trial" shirts appeared to my eye as pretty baggy in the midsection, puffed out of the pant when tucked in, and had excess bunching around the elbow.

2) A universal "that looks great" or "your fit is almost spot-on" response to the shirts that led to my #1 observation.

So I have to ask, is everyone just really bad at tucking in their shirt, or is this what MT gives you? If so, it's acceptable to enter your measurements and still have a blousy product? I can't see how it is different than a boxy OTR shirt, except that the shoulders and neck seem to work out real well. I'm struggling here. Am I the crazy one?
post #2423 of 3277
Quote:
Originally Posted by JMRouse View Post

Thinking I will order my first shirt from MT soon. Looked over the last pages of this thread and it appears to be recommended to measure your "best fitting shirt" instead of getting yourself measured at a tailor? Is this correct and leading people to the best results?
I'm actually excited to try this out. It's near impossible for me to find a well fitting shirt OTR.

I have a similar issue in that I have long arms and a relatively small neck. I've had 2 shirts thus far: shirt #1 was an exact copy of a Zara Man shirt (one of the best fitting OTR shirts I've ever bought), only with slightly longer sleeves. Shirt #2 had some adjustments to the sleeves, armholes, yoke and neck. However, the adjustment to the armholes appears to have caused the chest to tighten up slightly, and it threw the yoke/back of the collar out a bit. Shirt #3 will have a slightly larger chest. I'm not expecting perfection until about shirt #5, but getting there is half the fun.

The other great piece of advice that comes up in this thread time and time again is to order just one shirt at a time until you dial in measurements that you are totally happy with, and you might also want to stick with the $39.95 fabrics until the fit is spot on (of course, the $19.95 blue oxford trial shirt isn't so much SF approved as SF mandatory these days, so get that one first). Common sense perhaps, but you'd be surprised how easy it is to forget simple stuff like this.

And there is nothing more exciting than getting an MT shirt in the mail, especially knowing that it's for you and you alone. icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif
post #2424 of 3277
Quote:
Originally Posted by CousinDonuts View Post

Please forgive me for not reading all of the 100+ pages on this thread...I looked back at about 120 posts though and noticed 2 themes:
1) Most "trial" shirts appeared to my eye as pretty baggy in the midsection, puffed out of the pant when tucked in, and had excess bunching around the elbow.
2) A universal "that looks great" or "your fit is almost spot-on" response to the shirts that led to my #1 observation.
So I have to ask, is everyone just really bad at tucking in their shirt, or is this what MT gives you? If so, it's acceptable to enter your measurements and still have a blousy product? I can't see how it is different than a boxy OTR shirt, except that the shoulders and neck seem to work out real well. I'm struggling here. Am I the crazy one?

Well, MT makes the shirts to the measurements provided. I think on a lot of the first fit shirts, people tend to use their best-fitting shirt and not push the envelope too much with the measurements. I agree with you, a lot of the shirts could use more could use fabric taken off the waist area (and the arms, for that matter), but it seems a lot of posters comment on this when the OP asks for advice.

I alter my own shirts (out of desperation, learned how to do it myself), and take off as much as 4" off the waists of shirts that are already a slim fit. I was surprised it was this much, and I think people are reluctant to reduce their measurements by this much on their first try.
post #2425 of 3277
Quote:
Originally Posted by chet31 View Post

Well, MT makes the shirts to the measurements provided. I think on a lot of the first fit shirts, people tend to use their best-fitting shirt and not push the envelope too much with the measurements. I agree with you, a lot of the shirts could use more could use fabric taken off the waist area (and the arms, for that matter), but it seems a lot of posters comment on this when the OP asks for advice.
I alter my own shirts (out of desperation, learned how to do it myself), and take off as much as 4" off the waists of shirts that are already a slim fit. I was surprised it was this much, and I think people are reluctant to reduce their measurements by this much on their first try.

Also has to do with peoples body types. Someone with a bit of a stomach probably wants a bit of slack. Someone as tall skinny as myself also wants a tiny bit of excess fabric at the waist. If you're athletically built, or just average height with a flat stomach, by all means, go GQ tight.
post #2426 of 3277
Quote:
Originally Posted by CousinDonuts View Post

I think the shoulders are ok, but you have way way too much fabric through the body. The sleeves are bunching, so when you increase the cuff circumference you'll need to shorten the sleeves themselves or they'll hang past your palm.

Thanks for your critique. It's nice to have some feedback.

I agree there is a lot of fabric through the back - there isn't that much in the front though - so I didn't alter the body measurements for my second shirt.

As for the sleeves bunching - if you look in the 'side' picture the sleeves aren't actually bunching, they appear to bunch but it is simply the 'crappyness' of the MT Trial Fabric - if you bend your arm just once it will be severely creased for the rest of the day.

I have increased the cuff width and decreased the wide around my bicep so I am hoping this leeds to a 'slimmer' look on the arm.

Althought I did drop $108 on this next shirt so lets hope that it works out ok!


EDIT: On second thought (and re-trying my original shirt on) you're right. I do need to shorten the sleeves a bit! Uh oh! I hope they haven't sent my shirt to production yet...
post #2427 of 3277
Quote:
Originally Posted by ajmanouk View Post

Also has to do with peoples body types. Someone with a bit of a stomach probably wants a bit of slack. Someone as tall skinny as myself also wants a tiny bit of excess fabric at the waist. If you're athletically built, or just average height with a flat stomach, by all means, go GQ tight.

Also, I think the waist is best judged when one is sitting down, not standing up posing for camera.
post #2428 of 3277
Using body measurements for my trial shirt and think I may be measuring from the wrong spot. I am getting 29" for my sleeve length measurement. I normally wear 36" sleeves in my shirts.

ModernTailor gave me a warning that I deviated 12% from the mean on the sleeve measurement, which makes sense for my monkey arms, but I just wanted to double check with you guys... It is my first foray into this sort of thing.
post #2429 of 3277
Quote:
Originally Posted by Persedye View Post

Using body measurements for my trial shirt and think I may be measuring from the wrong spot. I am getting 29" for my sleeve length measurement. I normally wear 36" sleeves in my shirts.
ModernTailor gave me a warning that I deviated 12% from the mean on the sleeve measurement, which makes sense for my monkey arms, but I just wanted to double check with you guys... It is my first foray into this sort of thing.

How tall are you? I am 6'2" and I have my sleeve length set to 66 cm (26") and it is slightly longer than preferred.

Be sure to use their measurement guide:
- http://www.moderntailor.com/static/mt/men_shirt_measureguide.pdf
post #2430 of 3277
Quote:
Originally Posted by Persedye View Post

Using body measurements for my trial shirt and think I may be measuring from the wrong spot. I am getting 29" for my sleeve length measurement. I normally wear 36" sleeves in my shirts.
ModernTailor gave me a warning that I deviated 12% from the mean on the sleeve measurement, which makes sense for my monkey arms, but I just wanted to double check with you guys... It is my first foray into this sort of thing.

You are probably used to a measurement from mid-back, whereas this is just from the top of the shoulder seam down . For reference, I'm 6'4" and use 68.5 cm (just under 27") as my sleeve measurement - if you use 36" here I may need to request an autographed basketball.

As was mentioned, definitely pay careful attention to the measurement guide. The whole point of MTM should be that it's as close as possible to exactly the dimensions you want, but each company asks for measurements in a slightly different way.
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