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www.moderntailor.com Custom Tailored Clothing Official Thread - Page 16

post #226 of 3282
Hey all, just wanted to report my recent 1st time experience with MT. I ordered the $20 promo shirt in white. What I like:
  • Nice material
  • Stitching neat and straight
  • Nice MOP buttons (paid $2 extra)
  • Lots of customization options
What I don't like:
  • Button holes are really tight!
  • Feminine cut(more on this below)
I have a 40" chest and 30" waist, which is a sizable drop and requires a slim cut to a shirt. As I mentioned in the above list, though, the cut in the MT shirt is drastically feminine ) ( , rather than masculine \\ /. The shirt, since it flares out at the belt line, makes me look like I've got big love handles. It's not very flattering and will probably be relegated to wear beneath a sweater or waistcoat. Maybe I should have just gone with their recommendation and measured my best-fitting shirt? Anyone have some experience with this? Edit: I was just thinking...maybe it's out of whack since they don't ask for a length to waist measurement? Meaning- if the flare out hit a bit closer to my actual hips, perhaps the cut wouldn't look so severely hourglass-shaped?
post #227 of 3282
I have a similar ten inch drop (42 to 32). I don't feel like my shirt came out feminine looking, but I'll let you judge. I just received my test shirt from MT yesterday. Below are my pre-wash/iron pictures of the shirt.

I seem to have the same issue others were reporting regarding the collar points not touching the front of the shirt, but I'll wait until I iron the shirt myself to judge.


Side view looks pretty good to me. I want to see if the sleeves shrank at all in the wash, otherwise I'll probably adjust the measurements a bit.


I'm not sure what's going on in the back shot. Again, I think I'll have a better idea once the shirt is washed/ironed.


Any feedback regarding fit is welcome.

Cheers!
post #228 of 3282
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rorran81 View Post
Hey all, just wanted to report my recent 1st time experience with MT.

I ordered the $20 promo shirt in white.

What I like:
  • Nice material
  • Stitching neat and straight
  • Nice MOP buttons (paid $2 extra)
  • Lots of customization options

What I don't like:
  • Button holes are really tight!
  • Feminine cut(more on this below)

I have a 40" chest and 30" waist, which is a sizable drop and requires a slim cut to a shirt. As I mentioned in the above list, though, the cut in the MT shirt is drastically feminine ) ( , rather than masculine \\ /. The shirt, since it flares out at the belt line, makes me look like I've got big love handles. It's not very flattering and will probably be relegated to wear beneath a sweater or waistcoat.

Maybe I should have just gone with their recommendation and measured my best-fitting shirt? Anyone have some experience with this?

Edit: I was just thinking...maybe it's out of whack since they don't ask for a length to waist measurement? Meaning- if the flare out hit a bit closer to my actual hips, perhaps the cut wouldn't look so severely hourglass-shaped?

Dude, the "cut" you describe is entirely dependent on the measurements you provide.
post #229 of 3282
Quote:
Originally Posted by acecow View Post
I have the same thing going on. I tried lowering the armhole and yoke measurements, hoping that would help. The shirt is not here yet, so I will let you know how it works out when I get it.

Good to hear someone else is trying to figure this out too.

Attached is a photo. In addition to any other comments people might have, I am trying to figure out why it pulls uncomfortably at the front/bottom of the armhole. It is not bad when I am just walking around, but annoying when I have my arms extended forwards (like when I am typing).

Is the problem: 1) I just made the armhole much too small 2) the yoke is too small so that the armhole is too far toward the back rather than the front 3) I chose 'average' back rather than 'bent'?

Thanks everyone.

Attachment 50864
LL
post #230 of 3282
I believe that in your case it's pretty obvious that the shoulders are too wide. You might want to try to decrease both the yoke and shoulder measurements by a small amount. Other than that, I think the shirt fits really well and very few people would think there's something wrong with it. Try increasing the armhole measurement by no more than half an inch. Maybe that will help with the pulling you described. It might be a great idea to you take the shirt to a tailor who makes custom shirts himself and ask him/her.
Quote:
Originally Posted by david123 View Post
Good to hear someone else is trying to figure this out too. Attached is a photo. In addition to any other comments people might have, I am trying to figure out why it pulls uncomfortably at the front/bottom of the armhole. It is not bad when I am just walking around, but annoying when I have my arms extended forwards (like when I am typing). Is the problem: 1) I just made the armhole much too small 2) the yoke is too small so that the armhole is too far toward the back rather than the front 3) I chose 'average' back rather than 'bent'? Thanks everyone. Attachment 50864
post #231 of 3282
Quote:
Originally Posted by david123 View Post
In addition to any other comments people might have, I am trying to figure out why it pulls uncomfortably at the front/bottom of the armhole. It is not bad when I am just walking around, but annoying when I have my arms extended forwards (like when I am typing).

Because the chest is too tight across the back (if that makes sense) and the armhole is too small. When you put your arms forward your shoulders move forward too. Essentially, the front-to-back ratio of your body changes. The shirt can't do that, so it has to have enough excess material in the back -- that means a looser fit or pleats, or both. A larger armhole would also give it a little more flex.
post #232 of 3282
Thanks, I appreciate the responses, although I feel like the first answer was that the back is too big and the second that the back is too small. Am I misreading? In any case I experimented by making the armholes bigger on my next shirt and will report back when I get it.
post #233 of 3282
The idea that the back being too big causes the shirt to pull is absurd. More than anything, you need to add pleats.
post #234 of 3282
If you don't believe me, get a couple mirrors so you can see your back. Raise your arms up and forward like you would if you were typing at a desk. You'll see what I mean.
post #235 of 3282
Thanks, I agree and I'll try that. I had been using slim fit instead of normal fit, and they don't allow pleats for that. I appreciate the suggestion all the more as it wasn't even on my radar screen as a potential source of the problem. Hopefully going slim->normal won't create new problems.
post #236 of 3282
There's no reason why they can't add pleats to a "slim fit" shirt. Make a special request and I'm sure they'll accomodate you.
post #237 of 3282
My understanding is that if you use specific measurements, then the slim/normal option isn't even considered. They make the shirt to the measurements you input.

If you want pleats, select "normal" fit so you have that option. It shouldn't change anything else with regard to how the shirt is cut.
post #238 of 3282
Thanks, I'll definitely try that. I'm looking forward to trying again now.
post #239 of 3282
and by that I mean shirt measurements, not body measurements.

I think the normal/slim option is there for the people who submit body measurements and want MT to "figure the rest out" for them. Then I think that selection matters as it helps them decide how closely the shirt dimensions should follow your body's shape.
post #240 of 3282
Quote:
Originally Posted by david123 View Post
Thanks, I appreciate the responses, although I feel like the first answer was that the back is too big and the second that the back is too small. Am I misreading? In any case I experimented by making the armholes bigger on my next shirt and will report back when I get it.

Pulling is not due to large shoulders. The bunching up of fabric near the shoulders is.
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