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Fratelli Tallia di Delfino/Zegna Suit Fabrics/Fabric Retailers - Page 2

post #16 of 25
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by hymo View Post
The price I mentioned is for CMT (look up what it means).

No that price is inclusive of their fabric, in this case Fratelli Tallia di Delfinfo Super 130. So you're saying that labor should cost no more than $400 USD?
post #17 of 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by roguetheory View Post
No that price is inclusive of their fabric, in this case Fratelli Tallia di Delfinfo Super 130. So you're saying that labor should cost no more than $400 USD?

Yeah, labor should be about that for a 2-piece. Add no more than RM150 CMT for a waistcoat.

You can buy fabrics directly from Dugdale. I know of two tailors in KL with Dugdale books: Ah Loke Tailor and Bespoked in 1U. Dugdale's Thomas Fisher Cape Breeze range has some POW summer kid mohair + wool cloths which are great for the humid and hot tropics. They cost about 40 pounds/meter + shipping. Depending on how tall you are, 4 meters should be plenty.

We discuss Malaysian tailors here:

http://forum.lowyat.net/MensStyle&Fashion
post #18 of 25
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by hymo View Post
Yeah, labor should be about that for a 2-piece. Add no more than RM150 CMT for a waistcoat.

You can buy fabrics directly from Dugdale. I know of two tailors in KL with Dugdale books: Ah Loke Tailor and Bespoked in 1U. Dugdale's Thomas Fisher Cape Breeze range has some POW summer kid mohair + wool cloths which are great for the humid and hot tropics. They cost about 40 pounds/meter + shipping. Depending on how tall you are, 4 meters should be plenty.

We discuss Malaysian tailors here:

http://forum.lowyat.net/MensStyle&Fashion

You're a star, thanks for that. Right, so assuming I buy the fabric myself which tailor would you personally recommend out of those two? Also would you mind PM'ing their charges for a 3 piece canvased suit, in a super 130-150 using their fabrics.
post #19 of 25
Any reason for your insistence on what are probably super thin 7-8 oz high super number Italian cloths? They generally perform badly as suits. They wrinkle like crazy and look decrepit after only a few wears/dry cleanings. The fabrics in the books have mass appeal because of their softness, but really, you should avoid them. Read up more about suits here before you do anything. I have no idea what the two tailors charge for a 3pc FC suit in S130-S150, but I have had 3 jackets made at Ah Loke Tailor and will have a navy DB made soon. You save a few hundred ringgit if you buy your own cloth. Bespoked in 1U will be 40-60% more expensive than Ah Loke Tailor, and like BMW, everything is optional (even hand-sewn buttonholes) so you will easily end up paying twice as much at Bespoked.
post #20 of 25
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by hymo View Post
Any reason for your insistence on what are probably super thin 7-8 oz high super number Italian cloths? They generally perform badly as suits. They wrinkle like crazy and look decrepit after only a few wears/dry cleanings. The fabrics in the books have mass appeal because of their softness, but really, you should avoid them. Read up more about suits here before you do anything.

I have no idea what the two tailors charge for a 3pc FC suit in S130-S150, but I have had 3 jackets made at Ah Loke Tailor and will have a navy DB made soon. You save a few hundred ringgit if you buy your own cloth. Bespoked in 1U will be 40-60% more expensive than Ah Loke Tailor, and like BMW, everything is optional (even hand-sewn buttonholes) so you will easily end up paying twice as much at Bespoked.

OK, so lets say I went for the full package in terms of labor (pick stitching, hand-sewn button holes, working button holes, etc, etc) what would you say the max will be? Well over 1k RM? Also does that price include the suit being canvassed or fused?

Regarding the fabric, I posted a picture of Brad Pitt in a plaid Tom Ford suit at the beginning of the thread, this is something which interests me and what I've been trying to find.
post #21 of 25
Another Italian mill that is widely available in Malaysia is Vitale Barberis. They have some pretty good cloths. Ah Loke Tailor has their books -- so do many others. I don't think Dugdale has such a loud plaid. The labour for a full-featured fully-canvassed 3-pcs suit ought to be below RM1.4k at ALT. It depends on your haggling skills. However, almost nobody here stock Bemberg lining, so you will have to procure that yourself. Here's a loud plaid: http://cgi.ebay.com/100-WOOL-WORSTED...item519134a030
post #22 of 25
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by hymo View Post
Another Italian mill that is widely available in Malaysia is Vitale Barberis. They have some pretty good cloths. Ah Loke Tailor has their books -- so do many others. I don't think Dugdale has such a loud plaid. The labour for a full-featured fully-canvassed 3-pcs suit ought to be below RM1.4k at ALT. It depends on your haggling skills. However, almost nobody here stock Bemberg lining, so you will have to procure that yourself. Here's a loud plaid: http://cgi.ebay.com/100-WOOL-WORSTED...item519134a030
Great, so I've got a starting point. What do you think of the fabrics in places like Euro Moda? Would you say they're overpriced? So you estimate that the labor charges in Bespoked will be in the RM 2K range? What would you say the major difference is between Ah Loke and Bespoked?
post #23 of 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by roguetheory View Post
Great, so I've got a starting point. What do you think of the fabrics in places like Euro Moda? Would you say they're overpriced? So you estimate that the labor charges in Bespoked will be in the RM 2K range? What would you say the major difference is between Ah Loke and Bespoked?

If you have a specific fabric pattern in mind and happen to find just that somewhere, just buy it. Any of the retail cloth shops like Silk Street, Euro Moda, Hassaram's will be significantly more expensive than eBay.

It's difficult to estimate how much Bespoked would charge. Drop by someday and ask them. Remember, any price they quote is for a basic suit: No pick stitching, no working cuffs, no handsewn buttonholes, no horn buttons, cheap shit polyester lining, etc. Anything better will be a cost-plus option.

The major difference between Bespoked and ALT is that Bespoked has better hand finishing on the inside lining of their jackets. The label is hand-sewn. ALT, OTOH, has made me 3 jackets and a friend of mine has had like half a dozen suits made there with SF-approved features like high armholes, strong waisting, the softest shoulders in Malaysia, a collar that grips the neck no matter what, a synthetically clean back, drape at the back of the armsyce for forward arm mobility, open quarters and a generous lapel roll. These features are totally foreign to his house cut and you have to request for them specifically. Other tailors would simply ignore these requests.

The problem with ALT is that their handsewing is unspectacular. They use polyester thread for their buttonholes, unless you provide them with silk twist, as I do. Ah Loke has never had an office job himself where one would spend 11 hours on one's butt, so he tends to cut an exceptionally high fork that cuts into the family jewels and a leg so tight your adductors turn blue when sitting. The trousers look and feel fine when you are standing.

Price is secondary because most tailors here, even high street ones, are spectacularly lousy at what they do. Most simply fax your measurements to a factory.

I've seen Lord's work and it is pathetic beyond belief.
post #24 of 25
Hymo, Could you show some pictures of the tailor ALT's work & in particular their button holes after you have provided them with the silk threads? Any improvement? I have a colleague from Malaysia who was wearing one of their suits in their house cut & the silhouette seem reminiscent of some one much older. The style seems 70's . He allegedly tried to persuade them to make a softer cut but was met with stiff resistance from the old master.
post #25 of 25
stylomilo, some of my ALT garments are documented here: http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=144391
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