Originally Posted by roguetheory
Great, so I've got a starting point. What do you think of the fabrics in places like Euro Moda? Would you say they're overpriced? So you estimate that the labor charges in Bespoked will be in the RM 2K range? What would you say the major difference is between Ah Loke and Bespoked?
If you have a specific fabric pattern in mind and happen to find just that somewhere, just buy it. Any of the retail cloth shops like Silk Street, Euro Moda, Hassaram's will be significantly more expensive than eBay.
It's difficult to estimate how much Bespoked would charge. Drop by someday and ask them. Remember, any price they quote is for a basic suit: No pick stitching, no working cuffs, no handsewn buttonholes, no horn buttons, cheap shit polyester lining, etc. Anything better will be a cost-plus option.
The major difference between Bespoked and ALT is that Bespoked has better hand finishing on the inside lining of their jackets. The label is hand-sewn. ALT, OTOH, has made me 3 jackets and a friend of mine has had like half a dozen suits made there with SF-approved features like high armholes, strong waisting, the softest shoulders in Malaysia, a collar that grips the neck no matter what, a synthetically clean back, drape at the back of the armsyce for forward arm mobility, open quarters and a generous lapel roll. These features are totally foreign to his house cut and you have to request for them specifically. Other tailors would simply ignore these requests.
The problem with ALT is that their handsewing is unspectacular. They use polyester thread for their buttonholes, unless you provide them with silk twist, as I do. Ah Loke has never had an office job himself where one would spend 11 hours on one's butt, so he tends to cut an exceptionally high fork that cuts into the family jewels and a leg so tight your adductors turn blue when sitting. The trousers look and feel fine when you are standing.
Price is secondary because most tailors here, even high street ones, are spectacularly lousy at what they do. Most simply fax your measurements to a factory.
I've seen Lord's work and it is pathetic beyond belief.