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shoe construction...behind the veil

chant

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I watched a video in YT last night about Cheaney shoes and the representative in the video touted GYW as something unique to Northhampton and one of the main reasons for the quality of their construction. After educating myself here a little bit I'm shocked- it is very deceptive and misleading
 

MoneyWellSpent

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I didn't know a recraft of a GYW shoe they replace the insole? I thought they just reglue the gemming and a new welt on.


This depends on the manufacturer, but yes it is done when needed. AE won't do it. Alden seems to. The pricier English makers will, but I'm not entirely sure about the more "affordable" makers of Northampton.
 

vmss

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E won't do it? How will they fix the gemming damage than?
 

vmss

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I thought if the gemming damage was bad it would be impossible to reglued it back and that it was a must to replace it with a new insole new gemming.
 
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DWFII

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I thought if the gemming damage was bad it would be impossible to reglued it back and that it was a must to replace it with a new insole new gemming.


Not impossible...just nearly impossible to get it exactly in the same spot it started in. That's why hendrix's shoes were distorted.
 

vmss

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If AE reglues the gemming back to its I don't think they would be charging $150 to return a distorted shoes right?

the reason I am asking is because have two Allen Edmonds shoes, never did the recrsfting service yet. Just wondering what to expect when that day comes:)
 

jaywhyy

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If AE reglues the gemming back to its I don't think they would be charging $150 to return a distorted shoes right?

the reason I am asking is because have two Allen Edmonds shoes, never did the recrsfting service yet. Just wondering what to expect when that day comes:)
AE relasts.
 

DWFII

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AE relasts. 


I don't see how they can relast without replacing the insole. If the gemming is extensively loose it will have to be replaced. Without a new insole and the machine that places the gemming on the new insole, the person attending to the reattachment of the old gemming is guessing. Guessing how far it should be in from the edge of a distorted insole. Guessing even if the insole is somehow flattened. You can relast but if the gemming isn't in the same place as it was when the shoe was originally built the shoe will be distorted to one degree or another. And unlike HW you need the original last as well, simply because the gemming has moved and there is no way to clearly determine where the holes in the gemming may have matched with the holes in the upper.

Bottom line is if EG can't do it reliably with their own shoes, are we to believe that AE or even...as hendrix recounts...a local cobbler can?
 

MoneyWellSpent

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If they find that the shoe is beyond repair, they will return it to the customer. They relast it as part of the recrafting process as all the GY manufacturers do. But, the less expensive brands are less likely to perform major surgery, and instead they will just deem the shoe irreparable.
 

DWFII

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If they find that the shoe is beyond repair, they will return it to the customer. They relast it as part of the recrafting process as all the GY manufacturers do. But, the less expensive brands are less likely to perform major surgery, and instead they will just deem the shoe irreparable.


Money,

So...you clearly have a great deal of knowledge and insight into this subject...how do they re-position and reattach extended lengths of failed gemming?
 
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