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shoe construction...behind the veil - Page 93

post #1381 of 1387
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by sleepyinsanfran View Post

I have a question regarding the piping on the edges of the uppers (i.e. as opposed to a cut-edge or a folded edge), especially as used on some oxfords: Is satin/silk piping meant to be more luxurious than leather piping? And how durable might that be?

I guess that depends on your POV. I suspect it's not near as durable as leather, however. And not to put too fine a point on it, IMO, a folded edge, where applicable, is far more elegant, refined (and difficult) than any bead.
post #1382 of 1387

thank you! that's good to know!

post #1383 of 1387
Cloth as beading is quite bulky and can't be skived like leather, so it's sort of opposite to the idea of luxury. The only time I'd ever put fabric edging on a shoe is if the upper is fabric, like a petersham grain roll bound edge on velvet slipper where a raw edge might fray. Other than that, kidskin beading on pretty much everything but the lightest of ladies work.
post #1384 of 1387

Very informative post. Thank you so much for sharing.

post #1385 of 1387
Quote:
Originally Posted by ntempleman View Post

The only time I'd ever put fabric edging on a shoe is if the upper is fabric, like a petersham grain roll bound edge on velvet slipper where a raw edge might fray. Other than that, kidskin beading on pretty much everything but the lightest of ladies work.

Here is an illustration of various edge treatments:


edgetreatment.jpg

Grosgrain/Petersham ribbon gets sometimes used as 'French binding' on evening shoes, as the texture picks up the texture on other parts of the formal outfit (lapel facings, ribbon down the trouser legs.)
post #1386 of 1387
On an evening slipper for sure, not on an Oxford as sleepyinsanfran mentioned though, evening use or otherwise.
post #1387 of 1387
Quote:
Originally Posted by ntempleman View Post

On an evening slipper for sure, not on an Oxford as sleepyinsanfran mentioned though, evening use or otherwise.

I have seen it (occasionally) on 'black tie' oxfords and I quite like it, as the matte, ribbed texture gives a nice contrast to the high-shine patent- or smooth leather. If I ever were to commission a pair of evening shoes (highly unlikely,as I don't have a dinner jacket right now and I feel no urge to get one) that's probably something I would choose.

chacun à son goût
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