shoe construction...behind the veil

clee1982 · Jul 19, 2015

No screw fell out either, done at B Nelson.

bdavro23 · Jul 19, 2015

chogall said:
Your feet can easily feel a 1mm^2 pebble/sand inside your shoes. So 2.5-3mm though doesn't appear to be a big numerical value, it is quite significant for your feet.

As for cork, on one hand it retain shape well, thus foot bed doesn't form, which in term means no support. On the other hand, cork retain shape well, bounces back from resistance so it has great support. Further, cork will get displaced after worn or the bonding adhesive broke from constant pressure, which means foot bed will be formed, which in term means good support. But unfortunately, cork is occlusive and the adhesives used to bind them might or might not be occlusive, making your filler layer occlusive, which might be either great for shoe breathability or bad for wicking water into your insole.

If the above is too conflicting for you, here are the hard facts:

1) Many custom Orthotics are made with EVA or cork. We don't seem to have a Orthotics/Pedothotics/podiatrist/licensed professional on this forum to explain the how and the why.

2) At resole, cork fillers will *hopefully* be removed and replaced with new cork fillers but insole retained. Therefore your foot bed on the insole will remain with new layer of cork fillers.

3) Shoe insoles with cork fillers *does* form foot beds regardless if its Goodyear, hand welted, or Norwegian sewn.

4) Good quality GY insoles have as thick an insole at 4-5mm thick compare to hand welted insoles also at 4-5mm thick. As I've listed above, JM Weston uses ~5mm thick insoles (their own literature), G&G, EG, uses ~4mm thick insoles (Men's Ex).

You opining about the above does not make any of these things facts. Please stop. Honestly, its getting embarrassing at this point. I have never used the block member feature on Styleforum, but you are giving me cause to consider changing that record...

chogall · Jul 19, 2015

bdavro23 said:
You opining about the above does not make any of these things facts. Please stop. Honestly, its getting embarrassing at this point. I have never used the block member feature on Styleforum, but you are giving me cause to consider changing that record...

Go ahead. I won't miss your comments. And you can troll somewhere else. Otherwise facts are facts.

Or you can proof the facts I listed wrong.

patrickBOOTH · Jul 19, 2015

I like pancakes.

VRaivio · Jul 20, 2015

patrickBOOTH said:
I like pancakes.

You opining about the above does not make any of these things facts. Please stop. Honestly, its getting embarrassing at this point. Everybody knows pancakes are so last millennium.

Mr. Claymore · Jul 20, 2015

How about waffles? Waffles are good.

Gazelle · Jul 20, 2015

I think I would prefer pancakes too, the thin English ones (crepes if you prefer the word) - sugar and lemon please
Perhaps you could use them as gemming on you waffles.

chogall · Jul 20, 2015

No preference. Both thicker than 5mm but doesn't form good footbeds, makes no sound when walked on, and dissolves by water. Poor choice of shoemaking material especially compare to their close cousin, the bread loafer.

Gazelle · Jul 20, 2015

chogall said:
No preference. Both thicker than 5mm but doesn't form good footbeds, makes no sound when walked on, and dissolves by water. Poor choice of shoemaking material especially compare to their close cousin, the bread loafer.

Wonder if the do a Saphir butter oil in tan.

Nick V. · Jul 20, 2015

DWFII said:
Is that a plastic heel seat?!

No.....

John Lobb has had a wholesale account with us for over 20 years.
They supply us with their own components directly from their factory.
Not only are their heel seats leather but the quality is on par with JR leather.
They stain the the tops of their heel seats black.

Here is a picture taken in the shop today.
It shows the top and underside of a pair of Lobb heel seats:

MoneyWellSpent · Jul 21, 2015

So what is considered an "acceptable" filler for leather? I can't find it now, but I think Nick mentioned filling in a screw hole if it became necessary. Is there a special product for this?

patrickBOOTH · Jul 21, 2015

Gorilla glue.

The Craftsman · Jul 21, 2015

What about cork filler?

DWFII · Jul 21, 2015

patrickBOOTH said:
DW, are you saying the screws have the potential to cause even worse damage if they are penetrating the inseam?

Yes.

It is expected--the shoe evolved very specifically such that the outsole should be replaced without any significant damage being incurred in the process. Like changing clothes. On the other hand, the inseam...esp. the handwelted inseam...is the backbone / spine of a shoe. Damage done to the inseam is far more serious than damage done to the outsole or even the welt.

Gazelle · Jul 21, 2015

DWFII said:
Yes.

It is expected--the shoe evolved very specifically such that the outsole should be replaced without any significant damage being incurred in the process. Like changing clothes. On the other hand, the inseam...esp. the handwelted inseam...is the backbone / spine of a shoe. Damage done to the inseam is far more serious than damage done to the outsole or even the welt.

Talking of souls,
and know that I am with you always; yes, to the end of time (with or without gemming)
ooops wrong sort of sole

shoe construction...behind the veil

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