shoe construction...behind the veil

Well, first, what that material is, is 'cardboard.' It is pressed paper and used widely in lower end manufactured and women's shoes. Chances are there is a shank if some sort attached to the underside by hot melt glue or perhaps prongs on the shank itself.

Second, it doesn't really fill the back part of the shoe, although with enough time the cork will likely break down and migrate to those gaps around the shank cover.

I don't know whether a full cork filling would be better functionally or not. I deliberately don't have much experience with that kind of construction except for repairing shoes in my early days. That said, I think if the insole cavity is to be filled it ought to be filled completely. Leaving empty pockets and dead space isn't particularly good for the integrity and structure of the shoe....IMO.

But aesthetically...at least for this old snab...not filling the cavity seems sloppy or somehow incomplete. Again, IMO.

These cardboard pieces covering shank car also be found in high-end shoes (even vintage) and indeed they don't really fill the cavity, my best guess is that they avoid direct contact between metal shank and leather sole which could squeak during use. Or maybe it has something to do with machinery to help positioning or securing the shank.

florent said:

These cardboard pieces covering shank car also be found in high-end shoes (even vintage) and indeed they don't really fill the cavity, my best guess is that they avoid direct contact between metal shank and leather sole which could squeak during use. Or maybe it has something to do with machinery to help positioning or securing the shank.

Click to expand...

Well, I guess it depends on how you define "high-end." Ain't no bespoke makers...that I know of...using these kind of generic, pre-made, ticky-tacky components.

On the other hand, some (ahem) high-end manufacturers may very well be using them. It is part of a trend that dates way back--cheap, non-visible, shortcuts that cut the cost of production, that reduce labour and materials. Along with gemming, celastic toe stiffeners, cork bottom fill, cardboard heel stacks, plastic heel seats...etc., etc., ad infinitum, ad nauseum.

Regardless of age, provenance, retail cost or name recognition, chances are almost certain-sure that if a shoe is made with one of these shanks, it will also be made with gemming. And some or all of the other elements just mentioned.

And vice-versa.

For what it's worth, 'creaking' usually is a result of leather rubbing against leather, although any firm but non-slippery material rubbing against another firm, non-slippery material can cause creaks. Depends on the location of the rubbing components and how sound, structurally, the shoe is. Voids in the bottom treatment are always fraught.

Having a cardboard shank cover is no guarantee your shoes won't creak.

@DWFII, had a discussion with a mate about shoes, he has had bad experiences with leather shoes, from standing for the entire shift during his work; now he only wears those barefoot shoes. I was trying to get him to buy a pair of well structured leather shoe but can't seem to find reasons other than they are ugly af, and his pair's rubber sole snapped open after 1 year.

https://www.vivobarefoot.com/au/mens/everyday/ra-ii-mens?colour=Black

wurger said:

@DWFII, had a discussion with a mate about shoes, he has had bad experiences with leather shoes, from standing for the entire shift during his work; now he only wears those barefoot shoes. I was trying to get him to buy a pair of well structured leather shoe but can't seem to find reasons other than they are ugly af, and his pair's rubber sole snapped open after 1 year.

https://www.vivobarefoot.com/au/mens/everyday/ra-ii-mens?colour=Black

Click to expand...

When a person takes a notion like that, it's often a waste of time to try to convince them otherwise. It's like a religion..."naturally scarred" indeed! Oh my!

And FWIW (from what I can see of the photos) those are injection molded soles and not really rubber but some sort of high tech PVC compound ...and cracking is not unusual

thank you, what are the pros and cons of barefoot vs structured shoes?

Well, to be fair, barefoot is probably better as regards long term foot health than any structured shoe.

The fundamental concept of 'barefoot" shoes is actually quite old. Historically, structured shoes don't really show up until at least the middle ages. Heels as we know them, for instance, date to the 16th century and welts about the same. Prior to that all shoes would have been soft soled, probably unlined and more like a leather sock than shoes as we know them.

wurger said:

@DWFII, had a discussion with a mate about shoes, he has had bad experiences with leather shoes, from standing for the entire shift during his work; now he only wears those barefoot shoes. I was trying to get him to buy a pair of well structured leather shoe but can't seem to find reasons other than they are ugly af, and his pair's rubber sole snapped open after 1 year.

https://www.vivobarefoot.com/au/mens/everyday/ra-ii-mens?colour=Black

Click to expand...

I grew up on Birkenstocks and ran barefoot or in the Vibram five fingers. I considered the shoe version of Birkenstocks, but I just couldn't get over the duck foot look much like your link. I wore those shoes because they actually fit my feet, unlike the department store D width shoes I had available. Wide options were non-existent to hideous. I finally broke away from them when I discovered, in my case AE, that I could get shoes that looked great and felt as good or better. Then, when I saw how much better they held up over time, I was hooked.