FCS, finished my stint in Singapore and travelling through Asia at the moment. Glad to hear you liked that place in Shanghai; hope everything worked out well. I've never seen the 19 oz Lesser - it sounds bulletproof. Should be very useful in the Toronto winters. I'm not sure I could take it myself. 14-17 oz cloth, morsem, may be wearable past winter, depending on a lot of factors. How your body reacts to heat (I am the same as you in that my body also acclimates in a few days), how weighty the guts of the suit are (I go light on canvas, 1/2 lined, heavy-ish on cloth), how warm your shirts and undershirts are, how porous or insulating the cloth itself is. I find that flannel, for example, wears warmer than a similar weight worsted, especially those in a more open weave (like hopsack vs herringbone). As for the definition of worsted flannel, manton wrote the best description, so i quote: "Worsted flannel is cloth with a worsted base. That is, in the guts of the cloth, the yarns are combed out straight and woven in a parallel/perpendicular lines, giving the cloth greater density and resilience. Usually, this base is a twill weave. But not all the yarns are combed out flat and straight. Some are left to cross this way and that, and lock into place haphazardly. Plus, the cloth is not finished in the same way as a true worsted. The result is a cloth in which, if you look closely, you can see the twill weave, but the surface also has a visible nap, or fuzziness. True woolen flannel will have no combed yarns at all, and no twill (or any other regular pattern) to the weave. It will look "mottled", especially if the yarns are of varying colors (as they almost always are). Worsted flannel will wear better, hold a crease better, resist wrinkles better, and last longer. Woolen flannel is softer and in some respects more interesting cloth. The "depth" and color variation is simply not achievable any other way. It is more of luxury, because it is not so hard-wearing and won't last as long. It is also much more rare. I can't remember the last time I saw a real woolen flannel made RTW. I think it's pretty much a bespoke-only cloth these days." As for pricing, this depends on your source. H&S, Dormeuil, and Scabal average out to be more expensive than Lesser, Harrisons, and Smith; and in the latter subgrouping Lesser cloth tends to be a bit pricier. It is worth it in my opinion. Golden Bale pricing is closer to H&S 120s and a bit less than double standard Lesser 80s. If you are building your wardrobe, you cannot go wrong with the Lesser basics. They are conservative, long-lived, reasonably priced, and look great. When you feel ready to indulge in some dash, look into H&S and Harrisons (cashmere). Their cloths have more verve and happier colours.