Quote:
Originally Posted by
jefferyd 
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Sterling Gillette 
Of course, most RTW makers ignore this in order to save cloth, time, machinery and thus, cost. Additionally, making a flap without any curve (or with a blunted edge) is more difficult since it requires precise cutting and additional steps to prevent the seam allowances from "puffing" in the corners. I personally can't stand economically cut flaps, especially on a 4000USD suit (no matter the maker), so there you have the preference part.
Wrong.
All flaps, regardless of shape, are die-cut to whatever shape is required. They are then all jig-sewn to whatever shape is required. Square flaps can actually be made from one piece instead of two so are even faster and easier to make than blunted-edge ones.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
GoldenTribe 
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Sterling Gillette 
^^ Those rounded edge pocket flaps on a DB are even beyond 
.
Not only do I emphatically disagree with you on an aesthetic basis, your follow-up justification struck me as ludicrous. I am glad someone else has already articulated a better response than I would have been able to muster.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
jefferyd 
Wrong. All flaps, regardless of shape, are die-cut to whatever shape is required. They are then all jig-sewn to whatever shape is required. Square flaps can actually be made from one piece instead of two so are even faster and easier to make than blunted-edge ones.
Ok, I must have chosen some really strange words, hence the reactions. What I was trying to say is that little attention to detail bothers me in an expensive suit. Of course, Jeffery is right in saying that pocket flaps are die-cut. To me, however, there is a significant difference between using one single flap shape for single breasted as well as double breasted suits because that is not how it is done in a "proper" suit. I am not saying that Tom Ford suits are the only ones suffering from this defect. in fact, I can think of only a handful of RTW makers (not labels) who put greater effort into their pocket flaps. Jeffery must have been overly polemic in simply stating that what I was getting at is "wrong". It isn't and he knows it. Pocket flaps are not symmetrical, nor are they shaped the same way both at the front edge and at the back edge. They can be, or have to be, if a maker wants to save money. All I was trying to say that at 4,000 USD retail, I better not recognize at first glance where the maker felt the need to cut corners.