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Working buttons vs. lazy buttons - Page 4

post #46 of 56
7/5/10 at 1:41am
Quote:
Originally Posted by acecow View Post
Yes, it fits me great in the shoulders, very well in the chest, but I have a larger than typical drop from chest to waist, so nothing really fits me OTR. The jacket is a drop 7 E. Zegna sport coat. I think a Z Zegna with a drop 8 could probably work better for me. I, too, find $125 a little suspicious, but I've been given that number by two tailors, although one was Charles in Beverly Hills and the other at the Alandales store in Culver City. While they are definitely on the more expensive side, for some reason I have more trust in them. I went with the tailor in Culver City, because they sell really nice and expensive suits at that store, he's doing some bespoke work, I suppose and he seems to be really confident at what he does. I'd really hate to take a nice jacket to the dry cleaners and have the possibility of their tailor ruining it.

$125 is a lot, but if he does the job correctly it's not too much. There may be an up-charge for a few reasons:

If he's doing it correctly he's taking in both the side seams and the back, as well as recutting the vents. Also, there may be pick stitching on the vents that he needs to recreate.

Ask him why it's such an expensive job, no harm in asking about the details of the work you're commissioning.

If it were a single vented jacket with no pick stitching I think I would consult a few more tailors. I had to consult a few before I found one that was reasonable who also does a nice job.
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post #47 of 56
7/5/10 at 1:44am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by SkinnyGoomba View Post
$125 is a lot, but if he does the job correctly it's not too much. There may be an up-charge for a few reasons: If he's doing it correctly he's taking in both the side seams and the back, as well as recutting the vents. Also, there may be pick stitching on the vents that he needs to recreate. Ask him why it's such an expensive job, no harm in asking about the details of the work you're commissioning. If it were a single vented jacket with no pick stitching I think I would consult a few more tailors. I had to consult a few before I found one that was reasonable who also does a nice job.
Thanks a lot, that is really helpful. The vents are on the sides and he did say he would take in both side seams and match the pattern there. I'll talk to him when I return to bring him the buttons (left them at home). Thanks again. Edit: Also, is it a good idea to bring him a picture or two from WAYWRN on how I want the jacket to fit me?
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post #48 of 56
7/5/10 at 9:38am
Quote:
Originally Posted by acecow View Post
Thanks a lot, that is really helpful. The vents are on the sides and he did say he would take in both side seams and match the pattern there. I'll talk to him when I return to bring him the buttons (left them at home). Thanks again.

Edit: Also, is it a good idea to bring him a picture or two from WAYWRN on how I want the jacket to fit me?
I can't see how taking a photo or two for him to see would hurt, I think it's a good idea.
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post #49 of 56
7/5/10 at 9:49am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Macallan View Post
Surely the same applies to mtm and bespoke, if you end up selling a jacket. If you plan to sell a jacket and have short arms, you could be fcuked regardless because there may not be enough cloth to length the sleeve to the desired length.

I didn't get into bespoke until I was fairly sure what I wanted, where as some of my RTW jackets were experiments (with fit and design) that I didn't plan on keeping for very long.

Agreed on the short arms part, kinda sucks.
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post #50 of 56
7/5/10 at 10:01am
Quote:
Originally Posted by NewYorkRanger View Post
Agreed on the short arms part, kinda sucks.
Long arms kinda suck, too. I find that I can't buy items that are sized S,M,L without the arms being too short.
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post #51 of 56
7/5/10 at 12:28pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by acecow View Post
Thanks a lot, that is really helpful. The vents are on the sides and he did say he would take in both side seams and match the pattern there. I'll talk to him when I return to bring him the buttons (left them at home). Thanks again.

Edit: Also, is it a good idea to bring him a picture or two from WAYWRN on how I want the jacket to fit me?

I'm not sure why he would need to match the pattern or how he plans to do that. Are you sure you're understanding him correctly? I'm willing to bet that he meant he will re-cut the vents so that they sit correctly without flaring out.

I wouldn't bring any pics with you, describe what you want, he's a tailor he will understand. Tapered but comfortable, dont have him completely remove the breaks behind your arms unless you plan to stand at attention all day and not move your arms.
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post #52 of 56
7/5/10 at 3:47pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by razl View Post
That's an odd comparison. The bottom button of a suit could be buttoned (functional), it's just not stylistically intended. That's quite the opposite of something that appears to be functional (sewn on buttons with or without non-opened buttonholes) but actually isn't.

I don't know what you think is odd about it. Both are buttons that are attached due to convention rather than for utility. Sure, you could button the bottom button, but no one does except the models on Yoox. It is there so you don't look odd, just like the non-functional buttons on cuffs.

Maybe a better example would be the double-breasted blazer. I've never heard anyone say that they wouldn't wear one due to all the non-functional buttons on the front.

Suits have a bunch of non-functional bits that are really just for the look. Tons of jackets have buttonholes in the lapel, but I've never actually seen one with a button to put in it on the opposite lapel and sometimes these buttonholes are faux as well.

I just thought it was odd to justify functional sleeve buttons based on their functionality when many features of the suit, and some might even say the suit itself, exist merely for appearance rather than for function.
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post #53 of 56
7/5/10 at 3:49pm
My woman tailor asks me for 20 euros each surgeon cuff.


I´ll add just the latest one on each sleeve , but too snobish that way of having that one unbuttoned.
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post #54 of 56
7/5/10 at 3:50pm
I don't see the point in having them, it's not like you would leave them unbuttoned anyways so why dose it matter weither they do or not.
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post #55 of 56
7/5/10 at 6:18pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by NewYorkRanger View Post
Agreed on the short arms part, kinda sucks.

Short arms are an advantage when buying clothes - if the shirt or jacket sleeve is too long, it can be shortened. I have short arms and like choosing the sleeve length of jackets.

Although, they are a disadvantage when trying to sell your old clothes; however, being a clothes hoarder, I do not need to worry about selling unwanted clothes.
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post #56 of 56
2/22/12 at 12:19pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by razl View Post

I'm a person who's mind works as an engineer's first, and an aestheticist's second (a very distant second) and am very much a believer in form following function.
...
It confers to me a sense of historical connection with the original purpose, which I enjoy, even if I'll never use them for the same reasons or at all.


^ Definitive word on the subject. Thank you.
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