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The Ultimate "HARDCORE" Shoe Porn Thread (Bespoke only) - Page 241

post #3601 of 3684
Quote:
Originally Posted by bengal-stripe View Post

I'll bet we can find your MBC™ on the list of those who found your announcement helpful.



BZZZT!! Wrong again--as seems to be your wont.

Even though this is old and I missed it the first time around, I couldn't resist ...and thought it the honourable thing to do...pointing out that, AFAIK, I'm the only maker on that list and I am not patrick's MBC.

Not to put too fine a point on it, I have not ever been commissioned, or offered...much less been asked...to make a pair of shoes for patrickBooth. I wouldn't turn it down, mind you, but it has never come up.

And you do a disservice to him and a lot of other people making such insinuations.

edited for punctuation and clarity
Edited by DWFII - 9/12/16 at 3:45pm
post #3602 of 3684
I would totally commission shoes from you, however I don't live anywhere near Oregon!
post #3603 of 3684
My last has just been completed for my MBC to work with however...
post #3604 of 3684
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

I would totally commission shoes from you, however I don't live anywhere near Oregon!

No worries. It's not an issue...I'm old and slowing down. I am always willing but not so eager anymore.
post #3605 of 3684

Cleverley launched a new website the other day. Looks quite nice, and seem to be a webshop up and coming which is cool since they're RTW isn't too accessible online. I'm not a super fan of the "celebrity aura" they tend to focus more and more on though, and the website still lacks some info etc. As a fun Friday quiz, find three errors in this picture :) :

 

post #3606 of 3684
Quote:
Originally Posted by j ingevaldsson View Post

Cleverley launched a new website the other day. Looks quite nice, and seem to be a webshop up and coming which is cool since they're RTW isn't too accessible online. I'm not a super fan of the "celebrity aura" they tend to focus more and more on though, and the website still lacks some info etc. As a fun Friday quiz, find three errors in this picture smile.gif  :



Teemu and Andrew have both left. Not sure about 3rd error.
post #3607 of 3684
Quote:
Originally Posted by Winot View Post

Teemu and Andrew have both left. Not sure about 3rd error.

Yes, and sorry mixed up Adam Law with Dominic Casey, the latter has also left. So just two in that pic.
post #3608 of 3684
So where have Teemu and Dominic gone?
post #3609 of 3684
Quote:
Originally Posted by shoefan View Post

So where have Teemu and Dominic gone?

Teemu is with Lobb, and Dominic I think does more of the teaching stuff he has done before plus some freelancing.
post #3610 of 3684
Quote:
Originally Posted by j ingevaldsson View Post

My new pair from the Swedish bespoke shoemaker Janne Melkersson (Melker Shoes). For me, these are a bit extra special since my twin brother who works as a saddler has made the hand sewn decoration stitch on them.




Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)











  MORE PICTURES HERE! (Click to show)

































If anyone is interested you can see a bunch of pics that Janne took during the making on my blog

.


Seriously one of the most beautiful pair of shoes I have ever seen! French calf? Have you thought about how you will polish them? Neutral waxes, or avoid the stitching alltogether?
post #3611 of 3684
Quote:
Originally Posted by Notch View Post


[/SPOILer]

Seriously one of the most beautiful pair of shoes I have ever seen! French calf? Have you thought about how you will polish them? Neutral waxes, or avoid the stitching alltogether?

 

Thank you very much! It's from an Italian tannery, don't know which, it's through AA Crack and they don't say. It's called Cobbler burnishing calf, and have to say that it's really nice, very smooth and supple but not too thin and feels like it can take some damage, like it a lot. Doesn't burnish that deep like Annonay's Vegano or St Crispin Babycalf, but still nice. I only use neutral products on them, except on the sole edges.

post #3612 of 3684
Quote:
Originally Posted by j ingevaldsson View Post

I'm not a super fan of the "celebrity aura" they tend to focus more and more on though, and the website still lacks some info etc.

Quoted for agreement and right choice of words. The cordwainers handle the make and quality while the owners take the credit.
post #3613 of 3684

Cross post from the Japanese shoe thread: Enjoyed comparing my pair from Yohei Fukuda to @Stefan88's pair from Marquess/Shoji Kawaguchi today, and decided to take some pics and share. Very nerdy, but might be of interest for some. And we often see these close-ups etc on new shoes, not that often on used ones, which IMO adds an extra dimension (after all this is how the shoes look IRL, they are only new once). Yohei and Shoji are two of the most well renowned bespoke shoemakers in Japan (and in the world, for that matter), who have a lot of similarities between them. They both have trained in England, they have a thing for English shoes from the first half of the 1900's, and they have a very high quality in the making. They are also good friends.

Stefan and I have very similar feet (mine are just a tiny bit wider and shorter) which makes it more relevant. Both are faux full brogues, both chiseled toes, my Yohei Fukuda's in a burgundy aniline calf (don't remember if it's vintage Ilcea or Zonta, we were discussing both), the Marquess' are in dark brown vintage Freudenberg calf. Of course some has do with specifications, and they can do stuff very differently from here, but overall both Stefan and I have used the house style specs, so to speak. Below some thoughts, facts and some very subjective comments.

 

 

From this angle the last shapes are very similar. Marquess to the left, Fukuda to the right:

 

 

 

Quite sharp chisel on the sides on both shoes:

 

 

 

From this angle the lasts are more different. Marquess to the right has a longer and wider toe, while the Fukuda's are more angled inwards a bit more narrow toe. They could maybe be a couple of millimeters longer IMO, but overall I prefer the shape of the Yohei shoes.

 

 

 

Viewed in profile and they are once again very similar.

 

 

 

Here you see one of the more obvious differences, the fact that Marquess (now to the right) has a seamless heel and hence makes his faux full brogue in two pieces of leather, while Yohei has a back seam and makes the model with three leather pieces. The heel shapes are very similar, they are quite straight on the in- and outside while they tapper at the back (see next pic). Marquess heel is slightly narrower though, mainly due to the fact that he cuts the heel extremely close, closest I've ever seen. The Fukuda's are very tightly cut as well, but the Marquess another mm or so even tigher.

 

 

 

Pattern wise Yohei's back counter goes a little bit higher and shorter. The closing is phenomenal on both shoes. Marquess has a bit thinner heel lifts, but the shape of the heels are as mentioned above very similar:

 

 

 

Shoji/Marquess (now to the left again) has a tighter trimmed sole edge, and also a bit higher SPI of the sole stitching (12 spi I believe, vs 10 on Yohei's shoe). I think Yohei's welt is a bit cleaner executed though, maybe a bit due to the fact that it's wider and a bit easier to work with. it looks more distinct in it's shapes. This is Yohei's medium sole edge, one can choose to trim it tighter or have it wider, more Italian styled.

 

 

 

So, a look at the underside. Both shoes have very slim waists. Yohei (to the left) has a bit more curved and shorter inside of the waist shape (Stefan's and mine heel to ball length are very similar, so this is directly comparable). Both use quite small rubber top pieces, that are very angled (too much angled for me at least, I wear down the leather on the inside of the rubber piece quite a lot). Both have sunken lulu metal toe plates.

 

 

 

Marquess (to the right) has a small ridge making it almost like a mix between a bevelled and a fiddle waist. Both waists are blind welted, and on the inside they are very thin towards the edge. The shoes from Yohei even more so, it's hard to capture on picture but it's very thin out towards the inside waist edge.

 

 

 

Both makers use a braided reinforcement stitch at the bottom of the lacing opening. Old school stuff, not necessarily any improvement functional wise, but it adds a bit extra touch to things. The leather on Yohei's shoes is nice, but have to say that the vintage Freudenberg really is something extra, so supple and rich.

 

 

 

Here's an interesting feature on the Marquess shoe to the right, where you can see how it has an unlined tongue which is skived very thin towards the edges. Super clean work.

 

 

So, end of story :)


Edited by j ingevaldsson - 9/18/16 at 2:56pm
post #3614 of 3684

What a great contribution, and the real eye-opener would be a comparison to a British bespoke!

post #3615 of 3684
Quote:
Originally Posted by daizawaguy View Post
 

What a great contribution, and the real eye-opener would be a comparison to a British bespoke!

 

Cheers! Well, the extra fun thing here was that they have so many similarities. But I have a pair of G&G bespoke on a chiseled last (or, soft square really, but hey) on their way, can continue it then :)

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