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The Ultimate "HARDCORE" Shoe Porn Thread (Bespoke only) - Page 238

post #3556 of 3684
Quote:
Originally Posted by agjiffy View Post

Delivered today, a bespoke Lobb button shoe in Parisian brown leather and brown suede. I'd never used a button hook to put a shoe on before but it works like a charm:


]


Love that slightly bevelled vamp.
post #3557 of 3684

That JL shoe is a master piece. @agjiffy, what do you wear with them?.  Can you please post a pic in the wild? 

post #3558 of 3684
Blue suede double monk, by Cleverley:


post #3559 of 3684
Probably a bit ho hum for many here, but I wanted a loafer and had never owned suede so I commissioned a pair of dark blue suede shoes from Roberto Ugolini. The arrived minutes ago so here are a couple of pics:





post #3560 of 3684
Picked up a pair of repaired and modified shoes from Marquess. My first pair, with last improved further for my feet, and toe shaped changed. Feels like a completely new shoe because of this toe shape that I prefer to the previous one. Fit is about the same, but improved behind the ball and in the arch.


post #3561 of 3684
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stefan88 View Post

Picked up a pair of repaired and modified shoes from Marquess. My first pair, with last improved further for my feet, and toe shaped changed. Feels like a completely new shoe because of this toe shape that I prefer to the previous one. Fit is about the same, but improved behind the ball and in the arch.



This is amazing. Who did the polish?
post #3562 of 3684
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThinkDerm View Post

This is amazing. Who did the polish?

Thank you! Shoji-san or one of his employees I would suppose smile.gif
It's an old stock Freudenberg, so very easy to bring out the shine.
post #3563 of 3684
Not sure why I don't know the answer to this buy now, but assuming that a cordwainer has got nothing else to do, a last, materials... how many hours does it take to make a dress oxford? Just curious.
post #3564 of 3684

So interesting to see top English and Italian and top Japanese bespoke on the same page....the standards are so different they almost cant be compared. And the irony is the prices might be inverted compared to quality - wonder how long that will last? Possibly travel and fittings won't make this converge, but it must be an eye opener and tear drawer to those paying such a large price for a bespoke pair from the finest UK and European makers...

 

With the utmost due respect, but the Lobb`s seem like a pair of trial shoes, the Cleverly`s front a sawed off afterthought, and the Ugolini`s stitching was interrupted by a visitor and a quick expresso... seriously though, the differences in attention to leather, balance and detail is so striking its embarrassing


Edited by daizawaguy - 7/23/16 at 5:59pm
post #3565 of 3684
Quote:
Originally Posted by daizawaguy View Post

So interesting to see top English and Italian and top Japanese bespoke on the same page....the standards are so different they almost cant be compared. And the irony is the prices might be inverted compared to quality - wonder how long that will last? Possibly travel and fittings won't make this converge, but it must be an eye opener and tear drawer to those paying such a large price for a bespoke pair from the finest UK and European makers...

+1. The big problem is that with a few exceptions, the Japanese makers don't travel to the US......
post #3566 of 3684
Quote:
Originally Posted by daizawaguy View Post

So interesting to see top English and Italian and top Japanese bespoke on the same page....the standards are so different they almost cant be compared. And the irony is the prices might be inverted compared to quality - wonder how long that will last? Possibly travel and fittings won't make this converge, but it must be an eye opener and tear drawer to those paying such a large price for a bespoke pair from the finest UK and European makers...

With the utmost due respect, but the Lobb`s seem like a pair of trial shoes, the Cleverly`s front a sawed off afterthought, and the Ugolini`s stitching was interrupted by a visitor and a quick expresso... seriously though, the differences in attention to leather, balance and detail is so striking its embarrassing

Not sure about that. It can be hard to compare from pics on the internet, and the only Japanese maker I've used is Koji Suzuki, but they don't compare favorably to the English and French makers that I've used, and at the price one pays to get them in the US are an absolute ripoff. I think it's pretty easy to take a picture of a shoe that looks amazing and post it on Instagram. Much harder to make a bespoke shoe that fits well and isn't flawed when you wear it. I'm sure there are some fabulous Japanese makers out there, but based on my experiences with Koji I remain skeptical that they reach the heights of the guys that have been doing this for years. Just my two cents.
post #3567 of 3684
Quote:
Originally Posted by agjiffy View Post

Not sure about that. It can be hard to compare from pics on the internet, and the only Japanese maker I've used is Koji Suzuki, but they don't compare favorably to the English and French makers that I've used, and at the price one pays to get them in the US are an absolute ripoff. I think it's pretty easy to take a picture of a shoe that looks amazing and post it on Instagram. Much harder to make a bespoke shoe that fits well and isn't flawed when you wear it. I'm sure there are some fabulous Japanese makers out there, but based on my experiences with Koji I remain skeptical that they reach the heights of the guys that have been doing this for years. Just my two cents.

Can you provide a more full throated explanation? Would be curious to know, in this case, your issues with Koji as opposed to the aforementioned English and French brands you've tried.

No disagreement, merely curiosity.
post #3568 of 3684
^ sure. The leather on my Koji shoes is dull and waxy. I'd say it's the equivalent of what you get in a pair of Vass. Nowhere near the quality of high-end RTW, let alone bespoke. No gradation in color and nothing particularly interesting. The quality of the sole and stitching of the sole were...not good. They needed a resole in six months after the sole stitching frayed and the sole wore a hole. I've had a pair of cleverley for 6 years that have yet to need a resole. Never needed a pair of Lobb's resoled (although my oldest pair is just a few years old). My Berluti have been resoled, but that is free for life. Which is about $600 less per pair than my koji's. My koji's crease above the captoe. To me it looks awful and unintentional. He tried to explain it by describing the relationship between the various dimensions of the shoe, but a crease above the captoe just strikes me as a mistake. The fit is decent enough. The models that he shows look great as do the pictures on th web. But the execution on my shoes is not up to par for a $5k pair of shoes.
post #3569 of 3684
Quote:
Originally Posted by agjiffy View Post

Not sure about that. It can be hard to compare from pics on the internet, and the only Japanese maker I've used is Koji Suzuki, but they don't compare favorably to the English and French makers that I've used, and at the price one pays to get them in the US are an absolute ripoff. I think it's pretty easy to take a picture of a shoe that looks amazing and post it on Instagram. Much harder to make a bespoke shoe that fits well and isn't flawed when you wear it. I'm sure there are some fabulous Japanese makers out there, but based on my experiences with Koji I remain skeptical that they reach the heights of the guys that have been doing this for years. Just my two cents.

Can't speak for the Italian trained Japanese, as I have only seen some in real life. The stitching of what I've seen has been subpar to the likes of Marquess, Fukuda, Clematis and Yanagimachi.

Fit needs to be communicated at fittings properly. I can honestly say my second pair from Marquess is a bit too tight, but I felt with my eyes and not my feet. He is very helpful with correcting that though, and the finish and leather is top notch.

The price point for say Marquess and Fukuda is very competitive compared to British makers, and the execution is great. The look/style of Japanese vs British is another discussion of personal preference. There are several makers in the UK I'd like to try at some point too, but at the moment, I'm happy where I am.
post #3570 of 3684
From what I've seen in photos, I'd say that there are a handful of Japanese makers that are exceptional...maybe better than all but a handful of European makers. But those that are exceptional were trained by...usually exceptional...British or French makers. And that's the whole point of taking an apprentice or training someone--the student should be able to surpass the master. Not all do...maybe most won't...but the potential is there. If only because of the head start they get.

Frankly, I am an unabashed anglophile when it comes to "schools" of shoemaking. But I've been impressed...very impressed...by some of the Japanese makers and not just by the glacé finish.
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