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The Ultimate "HARDCORE" Shoe Porn Thread (Bespoke only) - Page 236

post #3526 of 3599
Another cross post, pretty proud about this project gone well:
Quote:
Originally Posted by marcodalondra View Post

I have finally collected these today, a pair of true Balmoral Oxfords with diamond punch captoe in Freudenberg (Weinheimer) boxcalf by Antonio Esposito on my bespoke last by Steven Lowe of Crispinians Ltd

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)




post #3527 of 3599
Quote:
Originally Posted by j ingevaldsson View Post

Cross post from the Japanese shoe thread: Some pics from my visit at Shoji and Yuriko Kawaguchi of Marquess last year (post now since I just wrote a report about the brand on my blog), don't think I've posted any of them before:




















  MORE PICTURES HERE! (Click to show)

























.

Do you have their contact info for us? I'd love to hear their options as well as if they will visit the US?
post #3528 of 3599
Quote:
Originally Posted by mw313 View Post


Do you have their contact info for us? I'd love to hear their options as well as if they will visit the US?

http://marquess-bespoke.blogspot.no

post #3529 of 3599
Quote:
Originally Posted by j ingevaldsson View Post

PCK1: Nice shoes!

---

Was in Florence the previous week, and visited several bespoke shoemakers for articles. Here's some pics from one of them, Ugolini (he himself was in Japan for a trunk show, so talked to his employee Roberto Di Monte instead):




Interested to know why he has posted that vintage Roblee shoe advertisement in his window. The Italians are affected by vintage designs but this really is something the Japanese are doing.
post #3530 of 3599
Quote:
Originally Posted by meister View Post

Interested to know why he has posted that vintage Roblee shoe advertisement in his window. The Italians are affected by vintage designs but this really is something the Japanese are doing.

I wouldn't know why. Maybe he wants to play on the old, or maybe just finds it nice looking.
post #3531 of 3599
Quote:
Originally Posted by meister View Post

Interested to know why he has posted that vintage Roblee shoe advertisement in his window. The Italians are affected by vintage designs but this really is something the Japanese are doing.

look at the shoes in the ad!
post #3532 of 3599
I recently got another pair from JP Myhre. For this pair, we had my previous last copied and he made some minor fit adjustments and narrowed the toe. I originally wanted a two eyelet shoe, like the Corthay Arca, but he strongly advised against it for comfort reasons. So far, it seems to be a good fit!





There are a bunch of additional pictures of the shoe and corresponding shoe trees in process on his Instagram feed:
https://www.instagram.com/jpmyhre54/
post #3533 of 3599
I swear: the more I see of Myhre's work, the more I like him. The man seems to have an uncanny talent for sculpting wood into lasts that have wondrous curves.
post #3534 of 3599
Quote:
Originally Posted by VRaivio View Post

I swear: the more I see of Myhre's work, the more I like him. The man seems to have an uncanny talent for sculpting wood into lasts that have wondrous curves.

 

But do they fit the feet for which they are modeled?!

post #3535 of 3599
Quote:
Originally Posted by PCK1 View Post

But do they fit the feet for which they are modeled?!

I've only had bespoke shoes from JP Myhre, so I can't compare the fit to any other bespoke shoemaker, but in my experience, they're the best fitting shoes I own, by far. (Though, I will admit that I thought our first pair was just simply too tight, but I think that is a matter of personal preference.) My 2nd and 3rd shoes have been about as perfect as I can imagine. I would say that I'm a particularly odd fit as well. I have a relatively wide forefoot, with very low instep volume and no arch. Any RTW derby ends up with the top of the facings closed as tightly as possible and the bottom pretty open. I've never found an RTW balmoral to really close up tight enough. With JP Myhre's shoes, the facings are absolutely perfectly parallel when closed around my foot. So, based on my limited experience, I'd say he's able to get his shoes to fit the feet their modeled on.
Edited by amlai - 6/25/16 at 8:46am
post #3536 of 3599

Quote:

Originally Posted by amlai View Post


I've only had bespoke shoes from JP Myhre, so I can't compare the fit to any other bespoke shoemaker, but in my experience, they're the best fitting shoes I own, by far. (Though, I will admit that I thought our first pair was just simply too tight, but I think that is a matter of personal preference.) My 2nd and 3rd shoes have been about as perfect as I can imagine. I would say that I'm a particularly odd fit as well. I have a relatively wide forefoot, with very low instep volume and no arch. Any RTW derby ends up with the top of the facings closed as tightly as possible and the bottom pretty open. I've never found an RTW balmoral to really close up tight enough. With JP Myhre's shoes, the facings are absolutely perfectly parallel when closed around my foot. So, based on my limited experience, I'd say he's able to get his shoes to fit the feet their modeled on.

He's very popular with his customers in Norway, as far as I've heard, and makes very refined shoes. I like the simple and elegant ones best, and the ones you just posted are truly magnificent.

post #3537 of 3599

Amlai: Awesome shoes, congrats!

post #3538 of 3599

Had my second fitting with Gaziano & Girling last week, here's some pictures from that and some from G&G's "small factory", Daniel Wegan's (head of their bespoke department) home. (A report and a bunch of more pics on my blog, but too much to post all here.)

 

 

Ordering a pair of austeritys:

 

 

 

Mr. Wegan checking stuff:

 

 

 

Cutting open:

 

 

 

 

 

MORE PICTURES HERE! (Click to show)

 

The lasts. Were so many changes after the first fitting that he had a new pair made at Hervé Brunelle, otherwise it would be crazy lots of fitting pieces:

 

 

 

 

So, here's some pics from Daniel's home. He rents an appartment above a small grocery store, so he can make hammer and make noise all evenings and nights without neighbours complaining. Note that he is hired as a lastmaker for G&G, the making is on his "spare time", done on a freelance basis for the company:

 

 

 

Closing room (he only do closing on fitting shoes etc, not the real ones they are made by the factory closers. Just enjoys to learn that part as well):

 

 

 

Making room, with two workplaces. Here he has company of Andreas Reijers, the new apprentice:

 

 

 

 

A magnificent display shoe, seamless wholecut with norvegese stitching on an extremely chiseled last:

 

 

 

 

Shoe for a short guy, with one centimeter of cork in it:

 

 

 

Waist prepared for blind welt:

 

 

 

 

 

 

.

post #3539 of 3599
Quote:
Originally Posted by j ingevaldsson View Post

Had my second fitting with Gaziano & Girling last week, here's some pictures from that and some from G&G's "small factory", Daniel Wegan's (head of their bespoke department) home. (A report and a bunch of more pics on my blog, but too much to post all here.)


Ordering a pair of austeritys:





Mr. Wegan checking stuff:





Cutting open:








MORE PICTURES HERE! (Click to show)

The lasts. Were so many changes after the first fitting that he had a new pair made at Hervé Brunelle, otherwise it would be crazy lots of fitting pieces:








So, here's some pics from Daniel's home. He rents an appartment above a small grocery store, so he can make hammer and make noise all evenings and nights without neighbours complaining. Note that he is hired as a lastmaker for G&G, the making is on his "spare time", done on a freelance basis for the company:





Closing room (he only do closing on fitting shoes etc, not the real ones they are made by the factory closers. Just enjoys to learn that part as well):





Making room, with two workplaces. Here he has company of Andreas Reijers, the new apprentice:








A magnificent display shoe, seamless wholecut with norvegese stitching on an extremely chiseled last:








Shoe for a short guy, with one centimeter of cork in it:





Waist prepared for blind welt:











.

Great share!
post #3540 of 3599
^^^Thanks!
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