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The Ultimate "HARDCORE" Shoe Porn Thread (Bespoke only) - Page 234

post #3496 of 3684
Quote:
Originally Posted by bengal-stripe View Post

I read somewhere (and for all I know, it might be just a romantic internet legend) that Stephane Jimenez had stopped bespoke shoemaking for some ten years or so and that he earned his living as a local shoe repairer.

As of now, we all will be looking differently at the man who runs the 'Mr Minit' heel bar in our neighbourhood: "Who knows, he might be the next super-star of the bespoke shoemaking world".

No super star here but I can tell you from experience that doing shoe repair adds a valuable and unique perspective, esp. if it is done regularly and repetitively and even more esp. if one doesn't limit oneself to repairing one's own work.

Doing repair doesn't add all that much, if anything, in the way of skill or refinement but it does teach you a bit about cynicism and expediency...in it's myriad forms...and it does teach you about what techniques are fundamentally flawed and even, if one is of an analytical mind, about why they are flawed.

That said, in my early years I strongly believed that inside every cobbler was a cordwainer desperately reaching for the light. As I've gotten older, I've come to realize that...for whatever reason...it's simply not true.
post #3497 of 3684
Quote:
Originally Posted by ntempleman View Post

Well, you can make anything take as long as you like if you go slowly enough, and it depends what you include as time taken. I understand these were masterpieces intended for peer review so you could arguably include things like making a mock up to get the last a certain way, practicing the Norwegian stitch etc. If the uppers are hand stitched then that would add a decent amount of time, it's hard to hard to say if they were though - some bits look like it, others don't so much.

Im fascinated to know more about his story, from what I've seen I'm a fan of his work and the way he's suddenly appeared as a complete package is amazing. He'd certainly be on my list if I was looking for a shoemaker, the work I've seen is quite inspiring to see as someone working in the trade - the kind of thing that urges you to go a little further. Still haven't seen any actual customer's work though, that's where the real test is and that's what I can't wait to see.


that makes sense and I'm curious to see some of his finished work for customers too! 

 

I have no problems being an early tester! lol

post #3498 of 3684

Just so you guys know, I mentioned the maker Stephane Jimenez a little while back. He has sent me more photos of some pairs he has made recently so I just posted a bunch on the Stephane Jimenez Bespoke shoes thread! 

 

Follow it and you will see quite a variety as he keeps making more shoes! 

post #3499 of 3684

I am thinking of changing the toe shape from a soft chiseled to a more rounded shape with a bespoke shoemaker I work with...

 

Does this necessitate starting from scratch and the creation of a completely new last...or is it ok to use the same last just with an altered toe shape?

 

 

@DWFII

@bengal-stripe

and anyone else who has experience in this matter...your advice is appreciated. 

post #3500 of 3684
Quote:
Originally Posted by PCK1 View Post

I am thinking of changing the toe shape from a soft chiseled to a more rounded shape with a bespoke shoemaker I work with...

Does this necessitate starting from scratch and the creation of a completely new last...or is it ok to use the same last just with an altered toe shape?
@DWFII

I can't speak for anyone else, but I don't see a problem. I have changed toe character any number of times on my own last as well as customr's lasts. Fit should not be altered in any significant way if the last and the foot are respected.
post #3501 of 3684

Better ask to use a copy of the original last before modification so the original shape isn't lost.

post #3502 of 3684
If the shoemaker is changing the toe character, using a copy of the original last is not necessary. Nothing that will affect the fit will be involved. The shoemaker may choose to make a copy, and you might even ask him to use a copy before altering the toe...just so you can go back the the original toe shape easily. But as far as fit is concerned, it's not an issue..
post #3503 of 3684

Well my point is to save the original toe shape, especially if the maker is charging a lastmaking fee (or not deducting lastmaking fee) for follow on pairs.

post #3504 of 3684
Lobb Paris wouldn't change the toe shape of my shoe without a completely new last. Their view was that it would never be up to their standard if they didn't start from scratch. There is a not insignificant lasting fee involved and in the end I passed because I couldn't see improving on the fit. They are pretty conservative on things like this (for example, we had a long discussion about whether a buckle shoe was going to require a new last) but I wanted to mention the data point. They also tend to fit the shoe incredible close to the foot (signfiicantly closer than any other shoemaker that I've used) so that might have something to do with it. At the end of the day, I'd trust my shoemaker to steer me right.
post #3505 of 3684
Quote:
Originally Posted by mw313 View Post

Hey and I also wanted to let you guys know that I've recently learned of a bespoke shoe maker in France who makes some amazing shoes. They are so great and his work and reputation made me actually create a thread about his work. 

His name is Stephane Jimenez and here is a link to the thread: 

http://www.styleforum.net/t/521021/stephane-jimenez-bespoke-shoes/0_20


I would love for us to be able to get him to come to the US to make some shoes for us StyleForum guys. I already spoke to him and he said that he would love to come to the US if there would be a few of us interested. He also said that he will send me some updated photos as he makes more shoes so we can be kept in the loop.

Check out the thread and let me know what you guys think, but I figured that by now, we are the group of guys who would have the most interest in this!


Here is some of his work:

His masterpiece that he used for the Compagnons du Devoir et du Tour de France in 1988. This was a special boot used for motorcycles so there is a piece of leather put on the shoe upper to protect it from the pedal:

















This is one of my favorite models:












I love the Norvegese resurgence we are seeing. A few years back, norvegese were being labeled "monstrosities" by many (of course some of the older squared toe and clunky designs had a lot to do with it). I am a fan.
post #3506 of 3684
Quote:
Originally Posted by agjiffy View Post

Lobb Paris wouldn't change the toe shape of my shoe without a completely new last. Their view was that it would never be up to their standard if they didn't start from scratch. There is a not insignificant lasting fee involved and in the end I passed because I couldn't see improving on the fit. They are pretty conservative on things like this (for example, we had a long discussion about whether a buckle shoe was going to require a new last) but I wanted to mention the data point. They also tend to fit the shoe incredible close to the foot (signfiicantly closer than any other shoemaker that I've used) so that might have something to do with it. At the end of the day, I'd trust my shoemaker to steer me right.

Who's your fitter? Paul?
post #3507 of 3684
^ measured by Paul in NY. Fit in Paris.
post #3508 of 3684
Sounds like an awesome experience. Visited their Paris workshop as well?
post #3509 of 3684
He was a good maker, Paul. Trained at Lobb St. James's.
post #3510 of 3684
Quote:
Originally Posted by ntempleman View Post

He was a good maker, Paul. Trained at Lobb St. James's.

 

Aren't Paul still active in his Newcastle workshop?

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