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The Ultimate "HARDCORE" Shoe Porn Thread (Bespoke only) - Page 219

post #3271 of 3684
Quote:
Originally Posted by jerrybrowne View Post

Is this what you're talking about?

http://horween.com/101/the-leather-that-has-3-names/

Yes, Huntsman. I have customer who was in Scotland last year and, in passing, picked some up at A.A.Crack.

It is, as I mentioned, a counterfeit of real Waxed Calf...although not terrible for what it is. I know this because early on in my career I used it off and on. Of course, even at that time I knew the rough outlines of the process of making the real Waxed Calf and was skeptical about the Huntsman.

While blocking the fronts for a pair of full wellingtons, I accidentally rubbed the "wax" off a small area of the leather. I called Horween to see if I could obtain a small measure of the wax they used...figuring I'd burnish it into the roughed up area...as might have been done in days of yore.

Instead of a wax based on pine pitch and cod oil, I received a bottle of black lacquer, smelling for all the world like airplane dope.

The lacquer did a marvelous job of patching the finish but I knew then and there that the Horween was a far cry from the original.

It is what it is...and, as I said, not terrible. But not the real thing either.

--
Edited by DWFII - 10/4/15 at 6:13am
post #3272 of 3684
Quote:
Originally Posted by DWFII View Post

Yes, Huntsman. I have customer who was in Scotland last year and picked some up at A.A.Crack.

It is, as I, mentioned a counterfeit of real Waxed Calf...although not terrible for what it is. I know this because early on in my career I used it off and on. Of course, even at that time I knew the rough outlines of the process of making the real Waxed Calf and was skeptical about the Huntsman.

While blocking the fronts for a pair of full wellingtons, I accidentally rubbed the "wax" off a small area of the leather. I called Horween to see if I could obtain a small measure of the wax they used...figuring I'd burnish it into the roughed up area...as might have been done in days of yore.

Instead of a wax based on pine pitch and cod oil, I received a bottle of black lacquer, smelling for all the world like airplane dope.

The lacquer did a marvelous job of patching the finish but I knew then that the Horween was a far cry from the original.

It is what it is and, as I said, not terrible. But not the real thing either.

Interestingly Huntsman waxed flesh has seen a recent resurgence. It's being used for faux work boots and casual shoes b/c it quickly looks distressed.
post #3273 of 3684
Quote:
Originally Posted by chogall View Post




http://www.ebay.com/itm/371448482364?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

If you want to own a piece of JL history...

It's a gold leaf embossing iron from a bookbinder's stock clearance, so it's either someone who made leather bound order books, or similar, or someone who stamped the gold leaf onto the socks.
post #3274 of 3684

To be or not to be - afraid of posting a pair of Jan Kielman shoes.  But here's my first and, so far, only pair of bespoke shoes. 

 

post #3275 of 3684
Very nice, love the colour
post #3276 of 3684
Quote:
Originally Posted by ntempleman View Post

Very nice, love the colour

+1. Nice shoes!
post #3277 of 3684
Kielman makes a nice, clean shoe...I only wish their lasts were more contoured or close-fitting around the instep.
post #3278 of 3684

Thanks to all,

 

Happy with the shoes - but have a slight fit problem, which they hopefully will resolve next time I'm in Warsaw. But thinking about giving one of the other shoemakers in warsaw a go, and see if theres a notable difference in quality and finish - and Jan kielman is the most expensive choice in Warsaw.

post #3279 of 3684
.................
Edited by David Reeves - 10/20/15 at 4:35pm
post #3280 of 3684
They make fitting shoes now? That doesn't look like in-welt fitting at all with an unfinished GY welted shoes.
post #3281 of 3684
Quote:
Originally Posted by chogall View Post

They make fitting shoes now? That doesn't look like in-welt fitting at all with an unfinished GY welted shoes.

Sorry?
post #3282 of 3684
That is gemming on the insole; looks like they may have handsewn the inseam, but using the gemming instead of cutting a feather/holdfast. One certainly hopes that isn't going to be the final construction method. Perhaps these are an Anthony Cleverley model, rather than the GC bespoke shoe? The welting also looks funny, rather like a synthetic material. All quite strange.
post #3283 of 3684
Quote:
Originally Posted by shoefan View Post

That is gemming on the insole; looks like they may have handsewn the inseam, but using the gemming instead of cutting a feather/holdfast. One certainly hopes that isn't going to be the final construction method. Perhaps these are an Anthony Cleverley model, rather than the GC bespoke shoe? The welting also looks funny, rather like a synthetic material. All quite strange.

Its my second pair from them, was expecting bespoke, never professed to be a shoe expert though.
post #3284 of 3684
Well, if your first pair was a lace-up, then they would likely have made a new last for your loafers, which would therefore necessitate a fitting. Perhaps this is a new approach to doing fitters, particularly if they aren't too confident of the fit of the last. Would be interesting to know more....
post #3285 of 3684
Quote:
Originally Posted by shoefan View Post

That is gemming on the insole; looks like they may have handsewn the inseam, but using the gemming instead of cutting a feather/holdfast. One certainly hopes that isn't going to be the final construction method. Perhaps these are an Anthony Cleverley model, rather than the GC bespoke shoe? The welting also looks funny, rather like a synthetic material. All quite strange.

Almost looks like cardboard, doesn't it? I think it is leather though, just a rough old chrome tanned, struck through work leather .

And if they were indeed hand sewn, why do the welts have that "tractoring" on them? Looks like that might be feed mechanism marks made from the GY machine.

If the order is for a bespoke shoe, then the inseam may indeed be temporary...although they didn't leave a lot of room for re-lasting and inseaming to a proper holdfast.

And that said, how can a fitter's model provide any useful information with a 5mm drop from the insole to the floor? Or a shank that is not secured? Wouldn't they want to fill the forepart cavity with cork, at the very least? To level it out?

I don't know...puzzled.gif
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