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The Ultimate "HARDCORE" Shoe Porn Thread (Bespoke only) - Page 212

post #3166 of 3173
It been a while since last time but I thought I jump in here about lastmaking!

I am one of those who make the last and makes the shoe without trial shoes or fitings in between. Also, I only take the four measuremet Bengal mentioned about and no imprints. This seems to be the traditional West End way of doing it but not that only, this was also the way we did it in the Swedish orthopedic shop where I learnt the trade as an apprentice. The only difference is that in the orthopedic trade we did the imprint and the reason we did that was, we needed it for making the insert for the pateinet.

After many years in the ortopedic trade and about as many in the bespoke trade my experience is that to much information of the clients feet could misslead you when making the last. Information has to be interpret and that is the tricky thing! Sometimes you are kind of "blind" no matter how many measurements you take and no matter how many years in the trade you have. I use to say to my students "keep it simple follow the tracing and the measurements make a nice toe shape and you have a fair chance to end up good or with an adjustable misfit. If you, which hopefully don't happend often, got a bad misfit, adjust the last make a new pair, knowing that that it is more economic then making trial shoes for every new client.

Having said this, it is so interesting to see colleagues making their lasts with different methods and with good results then the one mentioned above. The conclusion will be, the main thing is not which way the grind stone goes but that the knife gets sharp, so to speak!
post #3167 of 3173

More measurements -> Science

More attention to how the feet looks/feel -> Art

 

Hard to say which one is better. It all depends on the craftsman.

post #3168 of 3173
Quote:
Originally Posted by urban View Post
 

More measurements -> Science

More attention to how the feet looks/feel -> Art

 

Hard to say which one is better. It all depends on the craftsman.

 

Science isn't necessarily about more measurements but the establishment of a process that is repeatable and capable to produce the same results independent of the maker.

 

There are many ways to skin a cat.  Some methods are more repeatable and can be institutionalized while some methods are only applicable to a selected few with deep experiences.

post #3169 of 3173
Quote:
Originally Posted by VRaivio View Post

On another note, how is your order wearing so far, bengal?

At popular request of a single person (well, two actually), here are some pictures of my “Marquess” shoes (Shoji and Yuriko Kawaguchi) as they looked earlier today:





post #3170 of 3173
^^^ Those are really great Bengal!! Love the colour.
post #3171 of 3173

Sharp shoes!!

post #3172 of 3173

It seems they fit you like gloves.

post #3173 of 3173
Thank you, bengal. That calfskin looks edible and baby- (or calf-) bum smooth. How would you compare the service, fit, last, and finish of Marquess to the British makers you've tried so far?
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