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The Ultimate "HARDCORE" Shoe Porn Thread (Bespoke only) - Page 160

post #2386 of 2469
Quote:
Originally Posted by shoefan View Post

I got the top lift from a shoemaker in London. I don't know if the Philips ones are still available, but I got an unbranded pack of 20 similar top lifts from a finder/grindery in London a few years ago.

I asked few london shoemakers few years ago, they all told me Phillips ones are gone. Would you still remember which grindery provides similars lifts? What I got was whole lift with the leather, not just the rubbers like Philips.
post #2387 of 2469
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fishball View Post

I asked few london shoemakers few years ago, they all told me Phillips ones are gone. Would you still remember which grindery provides similars lifts? What I got was whole lift with the leather, not just the rubbers like Philips.

The ones I got were the leather/rubber combo -- i.e. it was the entire top lift, not just the rubber piece. The Philips top lifts shown above were also the entire leather/rubber top lift, not just the rubber piece. If you're still interested, I can try to recall what grinder had the unbranded variety.
post #2388 of 2469
Quote:
Originally Posted by shoefan View Post

The ones I got were the leather/rubber combo -- i.e. it was the entire top lift, not just the rubber piece. The Philips top lifts shown above were also the entire leather/rubber top lift, not just the rubber piece. If you're still interested, I can try to recall what grinder had the unbranded variety.

No need then, I have the leather/rubber combo. Thanks.
My Philips was just rubber piece, come in a pair "together", and have to cut it to two when use.
post #2389 of 2469
I pretty much only like the Tremont, Aberdeen, and Modified lasts by Alden. For full disclosure, I don't own any Aldens.
post #2390 of 2469
What kind of thread is used for different areas of the shoe? Is it generally synthetic?
post #2391 of 2469
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

What kind of thread is used for different areas of the shoe? Is it generally synthetic?

Once upon a time it was all linen or hemp with silk being used for some upper work.

Nylon and dacron have replaced the linen and hemp among some makers...certainly in the factories. And nylon has replaced the silk almost universally esp where a sheen is wanted, although some makers use dacron or even cotton/polyester for upper work where it is not.

I don't know anyone using silk anymore...it is too hard to find in a form and size that will feed through a sewing machine.

I use both dacron and hemp for inseaming and outseaming but the real limiting issue with the hemp is that it's not the quality it was during the heyday of bespoke work. The individual fibers are too short. And it must be waxed with special waxes that waterproof it and combat rot. The rosins, pitches and other materials used to make hand waxes are hard to find, much of it passing with the passing of tall ships.

In the absence of a good handwax, linen and hemp are vulnerable to micro-organisms which cause them to rot.

I used linen exclusively for many years but have switched to dacron for inseaming simply because it won't rot and is nearly unbreakable. Recently I've been playing with hemp coming out of eastern Europe and find it still not up to snuff but satisfactory if not as strong as dacron.

--
Edited by DWFII - 4/30/14 at 7:47am
post #2392 of 2469
Interesting. I have heard that there are some leather care products, conditioners and such that can eat away at thread.
post #2393 of 2469
I bought a roll of glace(d) cotton thread for hand-sewing buttons and the tag mentions that the same thread is usually used to sew leather garments or shoes. It's some damn strong stuff and looks like silk thread thanks to wax finish. Having tried it out, I will never go back to any other thread for buttons.
post #2394 of 2469
post #2395 of 2469
Quote:
Originally Posted by meister View Post

Bespoke shoes scandal claims scalp of Hollande aide

http://news.yahoo.com/scandal-hit-advisor-morelle-resigns-fresh-blow-hollande-113901058.html

Hollande sucks
post #2396 of 2469
Slightly off topic, perhaps?

Frog in Suit
post #2397 of 2469

Does anyone here have any experience working with Dimitri Gomez...in either his bespoke or his new made-to-order offerings?

post #2398 of 2469
Made to order? Thought that's been around for a long time along with semi bespoke and full bespoke.

I think lasbar has some Gomez shoes. Or it's rjman. Or some other French forum members.

If you are truly interested, just talk to the maker directly; you won't find much info on the forum.
post #2399 of 2469

Yeah just wanted to hear people's experiences as I will be traveling to Paris soon...

post #2400 of 2469
Steven @ Leffot has a Gomez pair.
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