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The Ultimate "HARDCORE" Shoe Porn Thread (Bespoke only) - Page 135

post #2011 of 2430
Quote:
Originally Posted by chogall View Post

Looking good.  How does he make his own lasts?

Not following you...we don't carve from a block of raw wood, if that's what you mean. I had his measurements on files both from his previous seminars and from about four other pair of boots I made for him. So ordered a standard sized last, based on my semi-proprietary last model, slightly over size and cut it down to his measurements. Then I did a fitter's model and when he arrived for the seminar, he tried those on. We made some minor adjustments and then went right into making his shoes.
post #2012 of 2430
Quote:
Originally Posted by DWFII View Post


Not following you...we don't carve from a block of raw wood, if that's what you mean. I had his measurements on files both from his previous seminars and from about four other pair of boots I made for him. So ordered a standard sized last, based on my semi-proprietary last model, slightly over size and cut it down to his measurements. Then I did a fitter's model and when he arrived for the seminar, he tried those on. We made some minor adjustments and then went right into making his shoes.

 

Ah okay.  Just wondering where and how he got his own lasts from.  :)

post #2013 of 2430
Quote:
Originally Posted by DWFII View Post

Thought you fellers might enjoy this...

I took an order some years back, over the 'Net, from a gentleman in Brussels Belgium. He was at that time an architect remodeling and repairing old castles.

When his order was near he came to my shop in Oregon to be fitted. And we struck up a friendship. One that has lasted for probably seven or eight years now.

Eventually he got so interested, he decided he wanted to learn to do this himself. A sterling example of Renaissance thinking--he's the kind of person that refuses to be ignorant.

Well, he's been back three times now. A year or more passes between each class and he has to hone at least some of his skills all over again. But this last time he came for a seminar in men's dress shoes:

Full cut oxfords, Annonay French calf, 3,4cm military (cuban) heel, full cut lining veg calf.

This is really interesting and thought provoking. Quite honestly I'm very interested to learn, but have no clue where to start, what is needed, time logistics etc so I will probably have to rest the case for now.
DW- you mention this Gentleman has to hone some of the skills all over, I'd like to know what are these? reason being from the pictures everything seems to be perfect, except the heel (not my cup of tea) but I guess this is a personal preference.
post #2014 of 2430
Quote:
Originally Posted by sstomcat View Post

This is really interesting and thought provoking. Quite honestly I'm very interested to learn, but have no clue where to start, what is needed, time logistics etc so I will probably have to rest the case for now.
DW- you mention this Gentleman has to hone some of the skills all over, I'd like to know what are these? reason being from the pictures everything seems to be perfect, except the heel (not my cup of tea) but I guess this is a personal preference.

Aw, he just needs to make minute adjustments to the angles when skiving, reacquaint himself with the sewing machines and remember to be hyper-aware when trimming or dying. Those kind of things. He didn't make any mistakes that I recall but I could sense his uncertainty when he sat down at the Singer 31-20 for instance. Not too surprising--it had been two years since his last seminar?

I was surprised at the choice of heel too. He's a big guy and doesn't need any extra height. They looked good on him, though.

And the toe shape is very au courant.
post #2015 of 2430
Thread Starter 


Lastest bespoke's from G&G...........
post #2016 of 2430
Wow nice. Three pair in one order???
post #2017 of 2430
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by chogall View Post

Wow nice. Three pair in one order???


yup thats right! shog[1].gif
post #2018 of 2430
I presume 2 of them are the buckskin displayed on the G&G tumblr. Dean told me the only buckskins available these days are from China. Are they vintage buckskin?
post #2019 of 2430
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by poorsod View Post

I presume 2 of them are the buckskin displayed on the G&G tumblr. Dean told me the only buckskins available these days are from China. Are they vintage buckskin?

yes these are the the 2 pairs they posted recently on their tumblr, the should be part of their vintage china bucks they posted last August IIRC!
post #2020 of 2430
Long time no see, green tea!
post #2021 of 2430
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fishball View Post

Long time no see, green tea!

yeah i am not in HK much now, hows things?
post #2022 of 2430
Poorsod, have you received your G&G's back yet that Dean (or Tony) said they would do something about the cracking? Curious to see how they handle it with either a patch, or something on the inside making it invisible or something.
post #2023 of 2430
Yes I got back a few months ago. It was very impressive when they were able to achieve. I didn't see the cracks anymore. Now, after wearing it for a while, I think they look like deep creases.
post #2024 of 2430
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by poorsod View Post

Yes I got back a few months ago. It was very impressive when they were able to achieve. I didn't see the cracks anymore. Now, after wearing it for a while, I think they look like deep creases.

which pair were these?
post #2025 of 2430
The black Austrian side laced whole cuts in baby calf.
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