or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › The Ultimate "HARDCORE" Shoe Porn Thread (Bespoke only)
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

The Ultimate "HARDCORE" Shoe Porn Thread (Bespoke only) - Page 131

post #1951 of 2621
...yes, I was just about to ask about the fit. It's a strange thing that they don't do fittings as most other British cordwainers do. When I interviewed one of their makers about a year ago, she told me that they do what the customer wants, there's no such thing as a JL house style. That pair looks far from blobby, they're very EG to my eyes. I trust their upper will take a shine like no other.
post #1952 of 2621
Quote:
Originally Posted by VRaivio View Post

It's a strange thing that they don't do fittings as most other British cordwainers do
.

John Lobb (London) used to do fittings in the traditional British 'in-welt' stage, just like everyone else. This was stopped under Mr Eric Lobb (John Hunter Lobb's uncle and predecessor as company boss), sometime in the mid 80s. Whatever spin the firm will put on, the bottom line is this was done to save money.

Quote:
Originally Posted by VRaivio View Post

When I interviewed one of their makers about a year ago, she told me that they do what the customer wants, there's no such thing as a JL house style. That pair looks far from blobby, they're very EG to my eyes..

JLL has several last makers/fitters working for them. Just like the Saile Row cutter (their equivalent in tailoring), the fitter is responsible to see a project through. Each one of them has his certain idiosyncrasies and preferences and those will ultimately show in the finished last and shoes. Craftsmen who work as out-workers for JLL can recognize who has made the last. A closer: "I don't have to look at the handwriting (of the instructions on the swing ticket) to know who has done a particular job.)

It's easy to say "what the customer wants", but how many customers are able to express precisely what they actually want. 'jerrybrowne' is an experienced shoe buyer and bespeaker and knows what he likes and what he does not like and, presumably, is not shy in expressing his opinions and wishes.

Many customers are virgins at bespoke and are not able to express their wishes more than: "A well fitting suit/shirt/shoe". You, as the professional taking the order, do not want to introduce confusion and uncertainty by offering your client too many choices. You don't want him to say: "Let me think about it", you want to nail the commission here and now. So, quite a few of the creative and aesthetic decisions are taken by the person who takes the order.

Apparently, there is one fitter at JLL today, who is regarded by the out-workers as an exceedingly good last maker. Maybe it was him, who saw the commission through.
post #1953 of 2621
Quote:
Originally Posted by bengal-stripe View Post

John Lobb (London) used to do fittings in the traditional British 'in-welt' stage, just like everyone else. This was stopped under Mr Eric Lobb (John Hunter Lobb's uncle and predecessor as company boss), sometime in the mid 80s. Whatever spin the firm will put on, the bottom line is this was done to save money.

That may be in the early 90s.
Quote:
http://www.nytimes.com/1989/03/19/travel/shopper-s-world-riding-high-in-british-boots.html?pagewanted=all

Like most British boot makers, Lobb recommends a midway fitting for final adjustments before boots are completely sewn.
post #1954 of 2621
Thanks, bengal! You have great insight into the British style world.
post #1955 of 2621
Boring I know but its my first pair of Cleverley's



Picking up some Blue Chelsea boots from them tomorrow.
post #1956 of 2621
Do you pay in suits? Tailors often have great shoes for that reason. And shoemakers for the same.

I recently got a great pair of brown suede chasse that I should photograph for this thread.
post #1957 of 2621
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Reeves View Post

Boring I know but its my first pair of Cleverley's



Picking up some Blue Chelsea boots from them tomorrow.

side gusset is NOT boring!
post #1958 of 2621
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Reeves View Post


Picking up some Blue Chelsea boots from them tomorrow.

Would love to see those. I am planning a pair of dark blue Chelsea boots from them with a medallion.
post #1959 of 2621
Cleverley custom stamped Crup.



post #1960 of 2621

Does that mean "hatchgrain cordovan"?  JB, you are something.  Those loafers are insane.

post #1961 of 2621
Quote:
Originally Posted by mimo View Post

Does that mean "hatchgrain cordovan"?

At one time, Horween produced shell cordovan either with a smooth surface or with a grain. So the shells were either worked with smooth or textured rollers.

It is possible, they will still do the grain cordovan at special request. It is also possible, this was a supply of dead-stock which fell into Cleverley's lap.

Here is another Cleverley in that same textured cordovan:

http://the-shoe-aristocat.blogspot.co.uk/2013/07/gj-cleverley-grained-cordovan-full.html
post #1962 of 2621
Quote:
Originally Posted by bengal-stripe View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mimo View Post

Does that mean "hatchgrain cordovan"?

At one time, Horween produced shell cordovan either with a smooth surface or with a grain. So the shells were either worked with smooth or textured rollers.

It is possible, they will still do the grain cordovan at special request. It is also possible, this was a supply of dead-stock which fell into Cleverley's lap.

Here is another Cleverley in that same textured cordovan:

http://the-shoe-aristocat.blogspot.co.uk/2013/07/gj-cleverley-grained-cordovan-full.html

 

I saw the above mentioned shoe in person.  Quite interesting shoes indeed.  All over very country look, but the outsole stich is very finite. 

 

Another example of grain cordovan from Alden retailer.

http://www.tassels.com.hk/en/made_to_order_details.php?id=44v

post #1963 of 2621
Quote:
Originally Posted by bengal-stripe View Post

At one time, Horween produced shell cordovan either with a smooth surface or with a grain. So the shells were either worked with smooth or textured rollers.

It is possible, they will still do the grain cordovan at special request. It is also possible, this was a supply of dead-stock which fell into Cleverley's lap.

Here is another Cleverley in that same textured cordovan:

http://the-shoe-aristocat.blogspot.co.uk/2013/07/gj-cleverley-grained-cordovan-full.html

The Horween pebble grain #8 cordovan is still one of my favorites! In this case Cleverley had the hatch grain pattern pressed into smooth butts that they purchased from Horween. The texture looks alot like Russian calf. I have to say that the way they are breaking in is fantastic.
post #1964 of 2621
Quote:
Originally Posted by jerrybrowne View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bengal-stripe View Post

At one time, Horween produced shell cordovan either with a smooth surface or with a grain. So the shells were either worked with smooth or textured rollers.

It is possible, they will still do the grain cordovan at special request. It is also possible, this was a supply of dead-stock which fell into Cleverley's lap.

Here is another Cleverley in that same textured cordovan:

http://the-shoe-aristocat.blogspot.co.uk/2013/07/gj-cleverley-grained-cordovan-full.html

The Horween pebble grain #8 cordovan is still one of my favorites! In this case Cleverley had the hatch grain pattern pressed into smooth butts that they purchased from Horween. The texture looks alot like Russian calf. I have to say that the way they are breaking in is fantastic.

 

Hello. Jerrybrowne.

 

Nice shoes.  So this one is embossed at Cleverley, unlike the full brogue one done at Horween.  Interesting. 

Does this pair have an elastic part in center hidden or simply a loafer?

post #1965 of 2621
Quote:
Originally Posted by bamboo View Post

Hello. Jerrybrowne.

Nice shoes.  So this one is embossed at Cleverley, unlike the full brogue one done at Horween.  Interesting. 
Does this pair have an elastic part in center hidden or simply a loafer?

Thank you. They have the hidden elastic making for a very comfy pair of shoes...
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › The Ultimate "HARDCORE" Shoe Porn Thread (Bespoke only)