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The Ultimate "HARDCORE" Shoe Porn Thread (Bespoke only) - Page 116

post #1726 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by chogall View Post

 

Sounds like owning a Jaguar.  Or a mistress.

 

The other questions is how well do shoe trees last under that type of humidity and how well can leather tolerate from going in and out of high humidity and low humidity outside?

 

Cigar humidors are usually lined in Spanish cedar (or something akin), much like most SF'ers' shoe trees (obviously aside from lasted trees).  

post #1727 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by RedDevil10 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by chogall View Post

Sounds like owning a Jaguar.  Or a mistress.

The other questions is how well do shoe trees last under that type of humidity and how well can leather tolerate from going in and out of high humidity and low humidity outside?

Cigar humidors are usually lined in Spanish cedar (or something akin), much like most SF'ers' shoe trees (obviously aside from lasted trees).  

Shoe trees are made from Red Cedar which is a totally different thing, you would not want your humidor to be filled with it...
post #1728 of 2609
^^^
Indeed, was merely observing that they should be fine regardless.
post #1729 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by chogall View Post

Compare to, say, regular calf shoes, reindeer maintenance takes more work?

Probably not so much the reindeer, but the age of it and conditions in which it was kept (IE: undersea).
post #1730 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by DWFII View Post

Some years ago I contacted a tannery in Sweden. I got some samples of reindeer and calf that were supposedly tanned with birch oil/tar. None of it had the characteristic "hatching" of the Metta Catarina stuff however.

They also sent a tin (same size and shape as yours) of dressing that was redolent of birch tar. It is black and sticky and smells great!! I love it. I hoard it for only the best of my personal "utility" shoes.

--

High praise from someone who knows. NOTED!
post #1731 of 2609
Work in progress

Hatchgrain (faux Russian) loafers with hand-stitched apron and decorated saddle strap:




Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)








post #1732 of 2609

   WOW . . . . we have 2 members capable of making their own ?

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by bengal-stripe View Post

Work in progress

Hatchgrain (faux Russian) loafers with hand-stitched apron and decorated saddle strap:




Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)








post #1733 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoGent View Post

   WOW . . . . we have 2 members capable of making their own ?

More than two. Fishball and Shoefan are amateur shoe makers. DWFII is a professional posting on a non advertisement manner. There are others professional venders posting too, such as Maccariello.
post #1734 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by bengal-stripe View Post

Work in progress

Hatchgrain (faux Russian) loafers with hand-stitched apron and decorated saddle strap:




Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)








Nice leather and design. Springline last?
post #1735 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoGent View Post

   WOW . . . . we have 2 members capable of making their own ?
Quote:
Originally Posted by chogall View Post

Nice leather and design. Springline last?

I have never said that I make (physically) my own shoes; nevertheless I make them like a film director makes movies. I just have a team and they do the work ten times better than I ever could. The shoes are my designs: I make the standard and the sectional pattern although I have still hesitations to rough-cut from the hide. (In English bespoke, the fine cut is always done by the closer, cutting and fitting to the last.).

See that interview what I do and what I don't do:

http://www.keikari.com/english/interview-with-rolf-holzapfel-aka-bengal-stripe/

I’ve made the loafer last myself. Well, actually that is an exaggeration as I had my last (not made by Springline) copied after temporarily augmenting the instep. Then I hacked it about, shortening the toe, nipping-in the heel, and scooping-out the top line. I’m pretty sure there won’t be any fitting problems as I haven’t changed the sole shape and I know that fits. The instep might have to be adjusted and I might fill-in the scooped-out arch of the last a bit, as to have a shoe with less arch support and therefore have the foot sitting a bit lower in the shoe.) If the whole thing should be a disaster (which I doubt), then I will scrap the exercise and take the loss. Can I be any fairer? All mistakes are my own.

I have taught myself to make patterns. There are certain features that I aim for, like a high vamp point. But if I were to put the vamp point too high and I couldn’t get into the shoe, it again would be my problem and nobody else’s. The aesthetic choices, as far as proportions, style and materials are concerned are my own. In the case of the loafer featured, choices were somewhat limited by the hide. We had previously cut a whole-cut Chelsea boot, which had to be re-made from a different skin. There was not too much good material left, hence the design of a pieced loafer, not a whole-cut loafer.

I do not buy into the romantic notion that the only way of making things is to make them yourself, however badly they might turn-out. Frequently people do not have the tiniest bit of critical distance when they are themselves involved. (I still believe my undergraduate essays are the cat’s whiskers. Silly me!) The net is full of dreadful things, not only shoes but everything else. I am not setting myself up as designer or design consultant. I used to say, my shoes are made by a team that has 150 years of experience in shoemaking. That is not quite true any more, as I have used another closer recently and the new one has maybe 25 years less under the belt.

But I do hope, my stuff, two pairs a year, (which I haven't posted here for quite a while) is slightly different and challenges, if only a tiny little bit, the people that work for/with me, I like to break some rules. Well, not necessarily iconoclastic, but ever so gently.
post #1736 of 2609

    still amazing to be able to oversee the actual 'making' of what you envision

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by bengal-stripe View Post

I have never said that I make (physically) my own shoes; nevertheless I make them like a film director makes movies. I just have a team and they do the work ten times better than I ever could. The shoes are my designs: I make the standard and the sectional pattern although I have still hesitations to rough-cut from the hide. (In English bespoke, the fine cut is always done by the closer, cutting and fitting to the last.).

See that interview what I do and what I don't do:

http://www.keikari.com/english/interview-with-rolf-holzapfel-aka-bengal-stripe/

I’ve made the loafer last myself. Well, actually that is an exaggeration as I had my last (not made by Springline) copied after temporarily augmenting the instep. Then I hacked it about, shortening the toe, nipping-in the heel, and scooping-out the top line. I’m pretty sure there won’t be any fitting problems as I haven’t changed the sole shape and I know that fits. The instep might have to be adjusted and I might fill-in the scooped-out arch of the last a bit, as to have a shoe with less arch support and therefore have the foot sitting a bit lower in the shoe.) If the whole thing should be a disaster (which I doubt), then I will scrap the exercise and take the loss. Can I be any fairer? All mistakes are my own.

I have taught myself to make patterns. There are certain features that I aim for, like a high vamp point. But if I were to put the vamp point too high and I couldn’t get into the shoe, it again would be my problem and nobody else’s. The aesthetic choices, as far as proportions, style and materials are concerned are my own. In the case of the loafer featured, choices were somewhat limited by the hide. We had previously cut a whole-cut Chelsea boot, which had to be re-made from a different skin. There was not too much good material left, hence the design of a pieced loafer, not a whole-cut loafer.

I do not buy into the romantic notion that the only way of making things is to make them yourself, however badly they might turn-out. Frequently people do not have the tiniest bit of critical distance when they are themselves involved. (I still believe my undergraduate essays are the cat’s whiskers. Silly me!) The net is full of dreadful things, not only shoes but everything else. I am not setting myself up as designer or design consultant. I used to say, my shoes are made by a team that has 150 years of experience in shoemaking. That is not quite true any more, as I have used another closer recently and the new one has maybe 25 years less under the belt.

But I do hope, my stuff, two pairs a year, (which I haven't posted here for quite a while) is slightly different and challenges, if only a tiny little bit, the people that work for/with me, I like to break some rules. Well, not necessarily iconoclastic, but ever so gently.
post #1737 of 2609
An interesting design, bengal! Wear them in health!

As for the innards, have you any special take on the shank, insole or materials?
post #1738 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by VRaivio View Post

Wear them in health!

I haven't got them yet. I might be dead before they are finished.

I have to make up my mind whether I want the waist 'square', 'bevelled' or 'square outside and bevelled inside'. Traditionally English "Casuals" (loafers) are made with a square waist, although quite a few firms make them bevelled these days. Decisions, decisions!
Quote:
Originally Posted by VRaivio View Post

As for the innards, have you any special take on the shank, insole or materials?

As the shoes are English-made they will have bottoming leather by Baker and leather shanks with tar felt as filling material. All English makers use Baker, the French swear by some French tannery (can't remember the name) and the Germans/Austrians/Hungarians use Rendenbach. (No idea what the Italians swear by.) I suppose, there is a certain element of chauvinism and cultural bias involved as they all prefer the local product. I don't even have a problem with gemming, just as I don't have a problem with fused interfacing in clothing, per se.

What I have a problem with in footwear are bonded 'backers' or glued-in linings. But that is something else and we are now reaching dangerous train-spotting territory.
post #1739 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by bengal-stripe View Post


Maybe two years ago, Crack got hold of a batch of that leather from another wholesaler as unsold 'dead-stock' and according to Tony Crack "sold it so well'. All the hides that G&G, Sargent, C&J etc (and your's truly) have used came from this badge. The last time I saw him (maybe 9 months ago) Tony Crack told me that he was in negotiations with Horween in Chicago to produce new stock. (I think at this time the first samples were imminent.)

 

 

Tony Crack? Is this a joke?

post #1740 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by JermynStreet View Post

Tony Crack? Is this a joke?

Why would it be a joke? AA Crack has several nice leathers that they supply to the bespoke trade. If only they would be a bit more responsive to inquiries and questions from this side of the pond. They do have a website and they do seem to want international trade...
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