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The Ultimate "HARDCORE" Shoe Porn Thread (Bespoke only) - Page 109

post #1621 of 1901
1/13/13 at 7:57am

Those nr 2 are just WOW:

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post #1622 of 1901
1/13/13 at 5:42pm
I pick 2
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post #1623 of 1901
1/13/13 at 6:27pm
Def pick 2 but 1 is also nice
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post #1624 of 1901
1/13/13 at 7:59pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by poorsod View Post


The side gusset design is not as secure as laces. In my case, the combination of side gussets, a soft skinned leather and stiff sole contributed to too much slippage. I sent them back so they could be tightened up. Tony Gaziano thinks that the oxford design is most optimal for fit.

I avoid buying expensive RTW these days because the fit is not as good as bespoke. I have asymmetric feet, narrow heel and wide forefoot, the combination of which is difficult for RTW to fit.

 

In the same camp here.  9.5 EEE left, 10.5 E right.  Average to 10 EE.  Heel width normal.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by jerrybrowne View Post


I should preface this by saying that I am very happy with my primary maker. They have been great and do excellent work.

They always have trial fittings. These fittings help alot once the last is dialed in (indeed I've never had a first fitting where something was not changed) but are less useful when you are adjusting your last or making your first shoe. This is because while the first fitting has a welt and a temporary heel and brace, there is no outsole attached. Things can tighten up quite alot when the uppers are sewn onto the outsoles. This can affect the width of the shoes at the heel or forefoot, and the ankle opening, among other things. Also, things like forefoot flexibility are very difficult to discern when there is no outsole.

I'm currently having a pair made by a different maker that does absolutely no fittings. Depending on who you speak to, this works for them because 1) they do not build as close to the last, or 2) (according to them) they have the best last makers in the world. We'll see.

 

I know G&G/Cleverley have trial fittings with welted shoe with heels but no outsole.  But I think that trial fittings would be different from trial shoes, where cutting up a pair of trial shoes JLP, Delos, or Yohei Fukuda style is more objective diagnosis of fit compare to a trial fitting with subjective feedback.

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post #1625 of 1901
1/13/13 at 8:46pm
Some great posts in the past week, but this was my favorite:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fishball View Post

My 2nd pairs DIY homemade bespoke.



Well done, A!
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post #1626 of 1901
1/13/13 at 11:18pm
Thank you, M.
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post #1627 of 1901
1/14/13 at 1:55am
Quote:
Originally Posted by bboysdontcryy View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by jerrybrowne View Post

I would pick 2 or 4, but obviously what you pick depends on your needs and personal taste. If you do go with a bespoke verson of #3, the Anthony Cleverlys, just know that shoes with these side gussets can be more difficult to fit and therefore are probably not a good choice for your first pair of bespoke shoes. In my experience it takes 2-3 pair to get your last right.
Quote:
Originally Posted by poorsod View Post

Side gussets were my second pair of bespoke and I had to bring them back for adjustment.

I find this very interesting. I'm quite surprised that even with a last built to one's foot, the fit might be off, and that it might take a few pairs to get right. When you gentlemen say that the shoes don't fit as well as they should, I'm guessing that you mean this relative to RTW shoes, right?

How hard is it to go back to RTW shoes once one has adjusted to bespoke shoes?

My first pair of bespoke shoes were whole cut side gusseted and while they fitted it did take the maker a year and a half to deliver the shoes after a couple of try-ons at least. Derby shoes are the most forgiving and Oxfords next but side gusseted shoes and button boots leave no room for adjustment.
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post #1628 of 1901
2/1/13 at 1:36pm
Not a pair of mine, but I feel they should be in this thread.

G&G bespoke-made Behemoth boots:

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post #1629 of 1901
2/1/13 at 1:42pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by VRaivio View Post

Not a pair of mine, but I feel they should be in this thread.

G&G bespoke-made Behemoth boots:

gorgeous
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post #1630 of 1901
2/1/13 at 3:29pm
I cannot get myself to like that form of Norweger toe and hand sewn apron. To me it looks unbalanced. But I can appreciate the craftsmanship that went into sewing it
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post #1631 of 1901
2/1/13 at 6:45pm
E
Quote:
Originally Posted by VRaivio View Post

Not a pair of mine, but I feel they should be in this thread.

G&G bespoke-made Behemoth boots:

Elegant shit kickers? What?
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post #1632 of 1901
2/1/13 at 11:39pm
Off balance and gaudy for my taste. Would much prefer a bigger apron or less elongated toe
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post #1633 of 1901
2/2/13 at 3:11am
Quote:
Originally Posted by gsugsu View Post

I cannot get myself to like that form of Norweger toe and hand sewn apron. To me it looks unbalanced.

Quote:
Originally Posted by chogall View Post

Off balance and gaudy for my taste. Would much prefer a bigger apron or less elongated toe

The French and the Italians usually subscribe to the "long toe, short apron" design philosophy.

But currently it's Saint Crispin who presents the most extreme example of this particular look:



Oh well, one man's meat..............
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post #1634 of 1901
2/2/13 at 3:43am
What I'd really want all to remember is that any Norvegese pair will look much more dramatic up-close than when worn. When seen from 1½ metres or more and under any pair of trousers, the stitching is barely there.
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post #1635 of 1901
2/3/13 at 11:01am
Quote:
Originally Posted by bengal-stripe View Post


The French and the Italians usually subscribe to the "long toe, short apron" design philosophy.

But currently it's Saint Crispin who presents the most extreme example of this particular look:



Oh well, one man's meat..............

Saint Crispin is going full steam ahead in the classic Italian styles. Norvegese stitching, and now this. Even G&G's example above is VERY Italian looking. That reverse stitch toe was huge in Italian shoes 5 years ago.
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