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The Ultimate "HARDCORE" Shoe Porn Thread (Bespoke only) - Page 106

post #1576 of 1901
1/3/13 at 5:21am

Cool


Edited by Samuel76 - 1/3/13 at 9:57am
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post #1577 of 1901
1/3/13 at 8:24am

That shine is to sleep with.

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post #1578 of 1901
1/3/13 at 3:31pm
I dont think I posted my A Delos (first and last):

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post #1579 of 1901
1/3/13 at 6:41pm
Why last?
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post #1580 of 1901
1/3/13 at 7:03pm

Berluti acquired Delos workshop..  Not sure if Delos will be making shoes at all.

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post #1581 of 1901
1/3/13 at 9:24pm
I visited Berluti in September/October asking about working with Delos. They were very defensive and I got the run around for a few days. Eventually I ran out of time. Maybe someone local has a better idea.
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post #1582 of 1901
1/3/13 at 11:35pm
Code:
Quote:
Originally Posted by chogall View Post

Berluti acquired Delos workshop..  Not sure if Delos will be making shoes at all.

Yeah still feel disappointed at LVMHs decision to get rid of Delos's brand altogether.I understand Arnys's tailoring operation will still keep their name, and the clothes they make would soon be called "Berluti by Arnys' or something to that effect
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post #1583 of 1901
1/4/13 at 7:49pm
Well I can understand that ; oppositely to Arnys that is nobody's name, having a brand by the name of one of your employee would sound strange.
Anthony and his team keep doing shoes but you can't commission them anymore, you will buy Berluti and the process is then managed within whole Berluti bespoke team.
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post #1584 of 1901
1/4/13 at 8:52pm
Gentlemen. Having a new pair of Norwegians made at JLSJ. The pattern has been drawn on my last shown below. Looking for some input from those with experience with the leathers. The bunch on the left are pigskin, the right top, french grain, and right bottom, english grain.

Interestingly, some of the pigskins are much more supple than those that I have from Cleverley. The softer ones are called "Number 1" while the harder ones that are more similar to Cleverley's, "Number 2". Not sure if this refers to thickness, but "Number 1" skins are definitely softer.

Anyone know how this "Number 1" pigskin wears? Is it a PITA to care for? Similarly, does anyone have experience with the French grain? It has a really fantastic texture that is more refined than other pebble grained leathers. Opinions on which would work best for the shoe?

TIA





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post #1585 of 1901
1/5/13 at 3:36am
As the owner of a pair of shoes and a messenger bag made in pigskin (it must be Nr 2, the stiff stuff) it is not a leather I would chose again for anything that has curves. I adore pigskin and I think it makes a wonderful material for suit-cases or boxes, but I believe (now) it should be reserved for items with right-angled corners.

I don't know the "Nr 1" pigskin (which seems to have more 'drape'), it might be better material for a pair of shoes. That French (fine) grain looks very nice and it might be my first choice. Be a pest, ask them to produce a sample with the leather of your choice being lasted over a toe. In some embossed leathers the texture pulls out extremely (leaving a virtually smooth toe) while other leathers keep their texture much better.

Another thing, you might want to re-visit the design. Unless your last is severely undercut along the instep (which I would't know) it might be an idea not to let the lacing sections meet edge to edge. I am a firm believer in a gap on a Derby 'Navvy-cut' at JL (London).

Here are my specifications (this type of drawing is called a 'standard') for a (Longwing) Derby which I had recently made. Note how it is specified for the edges not to meet (with more space on the bottom).



Here is the finished upper, reflecting these specifications.



The shoes are ready now, but I haven't taken any pictures yet. I'm getting the trees commissioned next week. Once the trees are ready, I will take some photographs.)

Hope that helps.
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post #1586 of 1901
1/5/13 at 4:07am
Quote:
Originally Posted by bengal-stripe View Post

As the owner of a pair of shoes and a messenger bag made in pigskin (it must be Nr 2, the stiff stuff) it is not a leather I would chose again for anything that has curves. I adore pigskin and I think it makes a wonderful material for suit-cases or boxes, but I believe (now) it should be reserved for items with right-angled corners.
I don't know the "Nr 1" pigskin (which seems to have more 'drape'), it might be better material for a pair of shoes. That French (fine) grain looks very nice and it might be my first choice. Be a pest, ask them to produce a sample with the leather of your choice being lasted over a toe. In some embossed leathers the texture pulls out extremely (leaving a virtually smooth toe) while other leathers keep their texture much better.
Another thing, you might want to re-visit the design. Unless your last is severely undercut along the instep (which I would't know) it might be an idea not to let the lacing sections meet edge to edge. I am a firm believer in a gap on a Derby 'Navvy-cut' at JL (London).
Here are my specifications (this type of drawing is called a 'standard') for a (Longwing) Derby which I had recently made. Note how it is specified for the edges not to meet (with more space on the bottom).

Here is the finished upper, reflecting these specifications.

The shoes are ready now, but I haven't taken any pictures yet. I'm getting the trees commissioned next week. Once the trees are ready, I will take some photographs.)
Hope that helps.

Hi Bengal,

Thanks for the (as always) thoughtful post. I'm also a big fan of pigskin, and agree with you regarding its issues. The Cleverley pigskin loafers shown below, are wonderful, but the pigskin has not really broken in and remains quite stiff. This isn't a huge issue with comfort, but as you note, this causes permanent "creases" or "rolls" at the curves or at stress points on the shoe. To me this adds character to the loafers, but could look odd on the norwegers.

Hoping the thinner pigskin might break in differently, but it still appears to retain some of the bending characteristics of the thicker stuff so it's hard to say. I'm leaning towards the French fine grain. The one example I saw from them in this leather seemed to hold texture at the toe fairly well.

Good catch on the lacing. I'll have to mention this to them.

By the way your longwings look great. What a nice shade of brown. Is that boxcalf?

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post #1587 of 1901
1/5/13 at 4:58am
I met with Anthony a few weeks back to get my shoes.

The set up doesn't sound as though a new customer can request him and his team specifically (and although I can use my DELOS lasts with Berluti it was a bit unclear if I were to place an order whether the Delos team will be making them).

Move to Berluti seems like a good step for him,...
Edited by Kuro - 1/5/13 at 2:10pm
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post #1588 of 1901
1/5/13 at 6:56am
My 2nd pairs DIY homemade bespoke.


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post #1589 of 1901
1/5/13 at 7:03am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fishball View Post

My 2nd pairs DIY homemade bespoke.


Very nice. I wish my second pair had been that good.
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post #1590 of 1901
1/5/13 at 7:06am
Thank you very much, DW.
The upper isn't sewn by me, and it took me almost eight months to finish it.
It look nice in a distance, but when it come close, you will see a lot of "mistake"
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