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Vass vs. Alfred Sargent "Handgrade" - Page 8

post #106 of 147
Quote:
Originally Posted by Burton View Post
C One significant difference that I believe makes EG & AS superior is the bed lasting. I believe there is a video floating around which shows this being done and where EG claims they are the only ones doing it. My understanding is that AS does it as well.


Here's the only reference I could find to "bed lasting."



Could you explain what "bed lasting" is and why it is superior?
post #107 of 147
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slewfoot View Post
Pliny - thanks for comparing the two! I find the calf leathers used by Vass and the English makers to be quite different as Forex mentioned. The Vass seems smoother while the English seems a bit more grainy. Tough to say which is better although the grains of the English leather definitely seems to lend itself for more antiquing.

I'd say this pair of AS Handgrade is the best example of their calf leather I've seen in pictures. It looks very refined. I think they've only gotten better in this regard which is good to see they are constantly looking to improve.

I too am not a construction expert although I'm sure they're both on a very high level.


cheers Slew, I'm a bit confused about who uses what leather. Some say Vass uses Aniline, English makers use crust. But according to Manton in an earlier post some English makers use crust or semi-crust and some use aniline. In any case I wonder if there really is any relationship between treatment (aniline or crust) and thickness, as forex sugests. Chay told me my HGs are semi-crust.
Manton: 'One of the reasons for that, John Lobb does not like to work with crust leather (as far as I know, they do not use at all. Actually, apart from EG, nobody in England likes to work with the stuff, not even bespoke makers. Unless you know exactly what you'r doing and do it day-in, day-out like EG or Berluti, it is extremely unpredictable. You can make an entire shoe and when you start dying the finished shoe, some fault in the leather, which you had not seen beforehand, suddenly jumps out and your shoe becomes a reject. At G&G they developed a method to pre-dye or pre-wax (can't remember) the uncut skins, hoping that it will show up the irregularities; but, according to Tony: "It's not perfect".
Perhaps Chay and co have been slowly perfecting their work with semi-crust.
post #108 of 147
Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzl View Post
is this the only proof we have? then we can move on. no worries.

i like the look and i doubt, it's a disadvantage... ...but i'll do a research.

There are valid reasons to prefer a seamed heel counter. It allows 2 curved seams to be mated together and sewn with less stretching (i.e. stress) on the leather to deform to that shape.

I'm not saying this is the reason. But it's possible.
post #109 of 147
emptym - Interesting points. I feel like there are so many differing opinions out there that I'm not going to think too hard about who is doing what. The truth is always in the final product and what one's preference is when feeling it in their hand (or foot!).
post #110 of 147
Best thing is to own both AS and Vass. I don't understand why this comparison was even started. As I mentioned elsewhere, AS is twice the price of Vass and thus is a better finished and possibly even a better shoe but Vass probably offers a better value.
post #111 of 147
Quote:
Originally Posted by forex View Post
Best thing is to own both AS and Vass.

Couldn't agree more!
post #112 of 147
Burton that medallion in your pic is sweet. and the leather is immaculate. Speaking for themselves. I think the AS HG are an evolving thing, which is exciting - just getting better and better. BTW something else I forgot to mention about the AS is the trees. They have the concave 'instep' and breather hole to allow air circulation - bonus
post #113 of 147
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pliny View Post
This image below shows the thickness of the AS leather (on the left).

i prefer the definitely nicer interior of the VASS. the AS seems not even close to the VASS. fwiw, it looks primitive and rugged.
post #114 of 147
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slewfoot View Post
The truth is always in the final product and what one's preference is when feeling it in their hand (or foot!).

+1
post #115 of 147
Of the brands mentioned in this thread I own C&J, EG & AS and having dealt many times with each firm I can say that the customer service of AS is second to none.

Having said that, the current price asked is more than fair for the amount of product and personalised customer service you get.
post #116 of 147
Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzl View Post
i prefer the definitely nicer interior of the VASS. the AS seems not even close to the VASS. fwiw, it looks primitive and rugged.

?????? what can i say Fritzl? it just aint. robust rather than rugged.
post #117 of 147
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pliny View Post
?????? what can i say Fritzl? it just aint. robust rather than rugged.

nothing. you like them. that's the only thing which is important.
post #118 of 147
I would really like to buy Sargents but as the company is curently up for sale I am really concerned! Is it worth a gamble??
post #119 of 147
Quote:
Originally Posted by Col.Sanders View Post
I would really like to buy Sargents but as the company is curently up for sale I am really concerned! Is it worth a gamble??

Col. Sanders - please explain how you heard that the company is for sale. Any insights are appreciated as no one else on this forum seems to have heard that and your only two posts have now mentioned this.
post #120 of 147
Quote:
Originally Posted by Col.Sanders View Post
I would really like to buy Sargents but as the company is curently up for sale I am really concerned! Is it worth a gamble??

Why? Were you afraid you wouldn't be able to get a replacement fuel pump?
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