Vass vs. Alfred Sargent "Handgrade"

After seeing all the sweeet shoes on the Vass Appreciation thread, I decided I needed a new pair of F last suede Adelaides. I sent Kolecho an email and was just about ready to roll but as I was looking for a picture of what exactly I was looking for I came across a picture of these new Alfred Sargents Handgrades (model Keats). This is pretty much exactly the shoe I want in a mid to dark brown suede.

The Sargents are ~$1k - a few hundred dollars more expensive than Vass. That aside, I would be curious to get people's thoughts on which of the two you would choose (assuming each was producing the exact same shoe except the last).

Keep in mind, I have never tried on either so tough to say which would fit better. I could swing by Leffot next time I'm in nyc for the Sargents MTO whereas the Vass I would have to just roll the dice.

Thanks for your input. Cheers!

I have the exact shoe you are looking at. I have often thought about purchasing a pair of Vass shoes, however, I just don't see them as appropriate for most business wear. I like the idea for a casual weekend shoe but I don't think they have the presence of the Sargents.







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Originally Posted by Burton

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I have the exact shoe you are looking at. I have often thought about purchasing a pair of Vass shoes, however, I just don't see them as appropriate for most business wear. I like the idea for a casual weekend shoe but I don't think they have the presence of the Sargents.

really?

Originally Posted by Burton

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I have often thought about purchasing a pair of Vass shoes, however, I just don't see them as appropriate for most business wear. I like the idea for a casual weekend shoe but I don't think they have the presence of the Sargents.

I understand that you qualify this with "I just . . ." but it still has to be one of the more absurd things I have read on this board, well, at least today. While I don't know what "presence" means, I can't imagine anyone thinking a F-last captoe isn't "appropriate for most business wear."

Just some off-the-cuff predictions here: - AS doesn't get a lot of love from the SF cognoscenti, while teh Vash does. So my guess is that we're going to see a lot of hate for the AS and defence of the Vass. - Much of that will be unqualified by experience with highest-end AS. In my experience with AS's top of the line shoes, they're excellent. I'd certainly put them about on par with most Vass I've bought or encountered. Not necessarily worth the higher price, mind you, but just as good. But at that price range, you can arguably get better from EG (though I haven't bought EG since the recent price hike, so my pricing info there might be out of date).

Originally Posted by Arrogant Bastard

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Just some off-the-cuff predictions here:

- AS doesn't get a lot of love from the SF cognoscenti, while teh Vash does. So my guess is that we're going to see a lot of hate for the AS and defence of the Vass.

sorry, you must have been sleeping the last two months.

shoe pron is full with them and the praise for them. "no" new vass recently.

despite my disdain for fiddleback waists, just for having one - me too appearance, the story behind the product sounds compromising. from what i have read, they are one a good way and probably they have been in the past. i'm just not aware of this.

Originally Posted by nmprisons

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I understand that you qualify this with "I just . . ." but it still has to be one of the more absurd things I have read on this board, well, at least today. While I don't know what "presence" means, I can't imagine anyone thinking a F-last captoe isn't "appropriate for most business wear."


Sorry gents that is the way I feel. Funny, I posted my stuff as purely my opinion and was slammed as if I wrote "facts." I see many of the Vass shoes as casual (read budapest, peter and new peter last)--you are, of course, free to disagree. Vass' more traditional dress shoes just don't appeal to me. I like a chiseled toe but their toe (their U) is just not to my taste and I don't like theirs on a dress shoe. Their F last leaves me uninspired. Did I miss the Vass litmus test when I joined? I am not a fan. I do like their Budapesters and Norwegians but would not ever wear those with suits--I bet most here would not either.

As to my post being the most absurd thing anyone has ever read, you must have skipped the AS thread.

Originally Posted by fritzl

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sorry, you must have been sleeping the last two months.

shoe pron is full with them and the praise for them. "no" new vass recently.

Weird. I definitely have not checked in on Shoe Pr0n in quite some time, so I definitely didn't see the new AS cool factor emerge. ****, and now here I am, looking like a bandwagoneer when I tried to be all hip and iconoclastic and whatnot.

Originally Posted by Burton

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Sorry gents that is the way I feel. Funny, I posted my stuff as purely my opinion and was slammed as if I wrote "facts." I see many of the Vass shoes as casual (read budapest, peter and new peter last)--you are, of course, free to disagree. Vass' more traditional dress shoes just don't appeal to me. I like a chiseled toe but their toe (their U) is just not to my taste and I don't like theirs on a dress shoe. Their F last leaves me uninspired. Did I miss the Vass litmus test when I joined? I am not a fan. I do like their Budapesters and Norwegians but would not ever wear those with suits--I bet most here would not either.
I actually agree with a lot of the above, but saying the F last looks too casual (casual and uninspired are not the same) for business wear is a bit out there.

Originally Posted by Arrogant Bastard

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Weird. I definitely have not checked in on Shoe Pr0n in quite some time, so I definitely didn't see the new AS cool factor emerge. ****, and now here I am, looking like a bandwagoneer when I tried to be all hip and iconoclastic and whatnot.

If there is an AS bandwagon is is definitely on the down low and not very big. There are 5 or 6 of us who realy like their product. I was drawn to them because I have a pair of BB Peal which are made by AS that fit me really well (double monks) and I really enjoy the look of the toe. I had a pair made for me and I love them. They are expensive but I think they are on a quality level with EG--again my opinion. I think if you deconstruct the shoes you will find them to be of high quality as well.

Originally Posted by Burton

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I think if you deconstruct the shoes you will find them to be of high quality as well.

I'm wondering if there's a very well-heeled (pun kind of intended) patron of the shoe arts on SF willing to buy a pair of AS handgrade solely for the educational/dissection purposes. Any takers?

Originally Posted by Burton

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They are expensive but I think they are on a quality level with EG--

probably better, according to the pictures in the AS thread versus the "tour of northhampton" by manton.

I like both of your choices and you probably can't go wrong with either. But, I still think getting the better fitting shoe is the wisest decision.

The AS welt and sole look a tiny bit more streamlined to me than the Vass, so I can sort of see Burton's point about it looking better with a business suit. But, I would not hesitate at all to wear the Vass with one, esp if you went single sole in an oxford/adelaide model. Btw, I think the Vass F-last toe is a little rounder and roomier that the AS toe which looks a tad narrower.

Originally Posted by Parker

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I like both of your choices and you probably can't go wrong with either. But, I still think getting the better fitting shoe is the wisest decision.

The AS welt and sole look a tiny bit more streamlined to me than the Vass, so I can sort of see Burton's point about it looking better with a business suit. But, I would not hesitate at all to wear the Vass with one, esp if you went single sole in an oxford/adelaide model. Btw, I think the Vass F-last toe is a little rounder and roomier that the AS toe which looks a tad narrower.

I think you are right. The U is more pointed than the AS chisel and the Vass rounded last looks rounder and wider than mine. Here are the AS lasts:




When I was at Ludwig Reiter earlier this year the female sales person told me my feet were elegant. I think this was her way of saying you don't have fat American feet. I think people will really like the AS shoes and I just wanted to share my appreciation for them with you and the OP.

Originally Posted by Burton

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When I was at Ludwig Reiter earlier this year the female sales person told me my feet were elegant.

that's the viennese charme, or have you been to germany, than she's been lying, just to sell you a pair. germans can be ice-cold...