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Things to know for first MTM/Bespoke Shirt?

post #1 of 15
Thread Starter 
So I made a post a while back about visiting with Ascot Chang tomorrow. I decided to do this at the last minute and really haven't researched what to think about when getting a shirt custom made. I've made a list below of the things I've thought about. Are there any things I am leaving out that I should mention tomorrow? Obviously still going to go in with an open mind and listen to the suggestions they make. Want to be well prepared though. Details - No Front Pocket - No Darts - Spread Collar with nice "Roll" - One button cuff - High Armhole - Slim fit (not crazy slim, though) - Soft interlining - No fusing on collars or cuff - Thick MOP Buttons - Left cuff bigger to accommodate watch - tight cuffs - regular placket Shirt Color/Fabric - White - Baby Blue - Light Blue Gingham - Not sure what fabric yet. Hopefully, use the cheapest if it feels nice. And then upgrade to TM Silverline once I get the fit down.
post #2 of 15
Also decide if you would like a placket or not I have plackets on 95% my shirts
post #3 of 15
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by my_alias View Post
Also decide if you would like a placket or not I have plackets on 95% my shirts
Thanks, I don't even know what that is. I'm going to search StyleForum for the pros/cons of plackets but do you mind sharing? Edit: Figured out that I do want a placket.
post #4 of 15
Don't forget removeable collar stays.
Google for shirts with and without placket. You will figure out what it is.
post #5 of 15
For lack of a technical term, the placket is the area where the buttons lay, once the shirt is buttoned, ( where the button holes are sewn). There are at least two ways of having this area finished, you can have it there, or not. Without it, there is no visible "ribbon" of fabric that contains the button holes. The shirt has an uninterupted smooth cloth that goes all the way to the edge past the button holes. If that makes any sense.

Modern tailors website has a very simple image of the two. It's hard to describe, but rather easy to realize once you're looking at it.

I tend to forgo all chest pockets on my more formal shirts I have made, but I do like the placket. I'm not sure if there's a differing degree of formality between having it or not, it's just a personal preference for me to have it with a placket.
post #6 of 15
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chips View Post
For lack of a technical term, the placket is the area where the buttons lay, once the shirt is buttoned, ( where the button holes are sewn). There are at least two ways of having this area finished, you can have it there, or not. Without it, there is no visible "ribbon" of fabric that contains the button holes. The shirt has an uninterupted smooth cloth that goes all the way to the edge past the button holes. If that makes any sense.

Modern tailors website has a very simple image of the two. It's hard to describe, but rather easy to realize once you're looking at it.

I tend to forgo all chest pockets on my more formal shirts I have made, but I do like the placket. I'm not sure if there's a differing degree of formality between having it or not, it's just a personal preference for me to have it with a placket.

Thanks, yeah that is the conclusion I came too as well. I like the fact that it kind of breaks the shirt up in the middle (or I think that is why I like, but I just like the look of it more than not being there).
post #7 of 15
i never get the no placket option. Sometimes I get this one:
post #8 of 15
Cuff cut? Placket? Removable Stays? Button-Thread Color? Cut of the side of the shirt? Those are most of the questions that are overlooked by first-time bespoke buyers. Mostly everyone knows what kind of collar and fit they want.
post #9 of 15
also, butterfly gusset?
post #10 of 15
I would recommend you let the "shirtmaker" ask you questions,
Look at the fabric selection , look at a shirt, If you like the interaction and it is in your price range,put in an order,
when the " shirtmaker" is finished with asking you questions,most of your requirements should be taken care of, Take your list with you and if a preference of yours as not been adressed
just mention it.
This should be an enjoyable interaction.

Freddy Vandecasteele
post #11 of 15
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by WRAdvisor View Post
Cuff cut?

Placket?

Removable Stays?

Button-Thread Color?

Cut of the side of the shirt?

Those are most of the questions that are overlooked by first-time bespoke buyers. Mostly everyone knows what kind of collar and fit they want.

Thank you for this

Can you explain what you mean by cut of the side of the shirt?
post #12 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by Freddy Vandecasteele View Post
I would recommend you let the "shirtmaker" ask you questions,
Look at the fabric selection , look at a shirt, If you like the interaction and it is in your price range,put in an order,
when the " shirtmaker" is finished with asking you questions,most of your requirements should be taken care of, Take your list with you and if a preference of yours as not been adressed
just mention it.
This should be an enjoyable interaction.

Freddy Vandecasteele

My recent experience in HK (janzten and lee baron) left me with a feeling at both places (especially janzten, who was an camp and arrogant pr**k) they just want you in and out with as few alterations and work as possible. Their opinions on fit were purely based on trying to not make any more alterations and their opinions on style were incredibly limited.
post #13 of 15
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Freddy Vandecasteele View Post
I would recommend you let the "shirtmaker" ask you questions,
Look at the fabric selection , look at a shirt, If you like the interaction and it is in your price range,put in an order,
when the " shirtmaker" is finished with asking you questions,most of your requirements should be taken care of, Take your list with you and if a preference of yours as not been adressed
just mention it.
This should be an enjoyable interaction.

Freddy Vandecasteele

Yes, this is what I plan to do. I just want to have a well prepared list to turn too in case there are things we didn't discuss.
post #14 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lowndes View Post
Thank you for this

Can you explain what you mean by cut of the side of the shirt?

Shirts can be "cut" differently depending on the tastes of the buyer. I think the three common cuts are Classic, Straight and Modern. Straight is cut the same length all away around with slide slits. The other two have gradual shape going up the hip. Check out CottonWork.com or ModernTailor.com and just design a MTM for fun and you'll be able to see all the options.
post #15 of 15
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by WRAdvisor View Post
Shirts can be "cut" differently depending on the tastes of the buyer. I think the three common cuts are Classic, Straight and Modern. Straight is cut the same length all away around with slide slits. The other two have gradual shape going up the hip. Check out CottonWork.com or ModernTailor.com and just design a MTM for fun and you'll be able to see all the options.

great, thanks
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