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Please Critique my WW Chan and Geneva - Page 5

post #61 of 85
Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzl View Post
excused, no worries ps: i better text you your sizing disability
Right, right--my stuff fits like garbage because my head is too big, I'm too short, and I don't have a personality. Oh, almost forgot, they didn't wad my shoulders with enough joy. That about it?
Quote:
Originally Posted by teddieriley View Post
You are putting too much emphasis on ironing and the shirt being "put on properly" (whatever that means - he has one arm in each sleeve, the buttons are aligned, and the shirt is tucked). While I agree it is difficult to assess the more subtle fit issues in a shirt from a few pics, its easy enough to make general assessments, as it is with suits. Perhaps the OP could have "fixed" himself up a bit by re-tucking before the pic (assuming he didn't do that already), but this is the way his shirt fits IRL and from having worn it all day. The fit should be just as good in the morning as it is in the evening, ironed or not.
Maybe my shirts just suck, then. If I so much as hunch my shoulders or stand up particularly straight, the fabric pulls in different directions. If I don't tuck in evenly, more fabric pools up in some areas than others. And, yes, ironing can make a big difference, particularly if the fabric is a very crisp poplin. I'm not saying it isn't possible the OP's shirt is terribly bad--I'm saying it's hard to tell based on the pictures posted.
post #62 of 85
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post
Right, right--my stuff fits like garbage because my head is too big, I'm too short, and I don't have a personality. Oh, almost forgot, they didn't wad my shoulders with enough joy. That about it?



Maybe my shirts just suck, then. If I so much as hunch my shoulders or stand up particularly straight, the fabric pulls in different directions. If I don't tuck in evenly, more fabric pools up in some areas than others. And, yes, ironing can make a big difference, particularly if the fabric is a very crisp poplin.

I'm not saying the OP's shirt might not be terribly bad--I'm saying it's hard to tell based on the pictures posted.

I think it is clear from the pic, that the upper chest and area around the tie need to be addressed. IMO, that is not simply due to not primping before the pic. After a day of work, none of my custom shirts look like that. There is a difference between wrinkling, which is most noticeable in the sleeves and lower half of the shirt from being tucked all day and coming out through movement. I mean unless you do push ups or jumping jacks during the day, I don't see why the upper half of the shirt should be dramatically affected by pulling/wrinkling, etc.

But look, if this is the first shirt, it will get fixed, no doubt. Not all first shots are perfect. Some people have better luck than others. Hopefully the OP can take the various, specific comments back to Geneva so he can intelligently discuss what is off about the fit of the shirt.
post #63 of 85
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

Now, this is ridiculous. Do you really think that Geneva has that kind of brand cache on the forum?

Geneva is no A.M.

But it is still a highly regarded shirtmaker among those who appreciate quality and not just a "name".

I'm just as disappointed that they let the OP walk out of the shop in a shirt like that.

Of course I take all I've said back if the OP was truly INSISTENT that that's how he wanted his shirt to look.
post #64 of 85
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post
Right, right--my stuff fits like garbage because my head is too big, I'm too short, and I don't have a personality. Oh, almost forgot, they didn't wad my shoulders with enough joy. That about it?

no, it's not about it

you seem to be a nice guy..

you did not destroy me... very nice

i just want to go into an observiaton; w/o the foo factor

ps: matt, i hope i can welcome you to the first parika trunk show, you are a serious 7UK ????
post #65 of 85
Quote:
Originally Posted by emc894 View Post
I do generally like a more conservative, American look than many on this board and the pants and shirt may reflect that. Next time I will probably take some fullness out.

I think that's pretty helpful for people here to know before they can give you feedback.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mmkn View Post
Wear the suit for Patrick/Chan next time and ask what tweaking he would do on this one and your next with them. - M

Thank you; +1.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

Well done; particularly as this seems in line with the OP's wishes.
post #66 of 85
I think the underarm front width is excessive. Too much unnecessary drape on the chest. I totally understand what the OP means by not wanting a shirt that shows the contours of the body too much -- it's popular with the fashion mags, but does not look appropriate for business. But it is truly excessive here. Also, the shoulder-sleeve seam could sit higher by a quarter inch each side. A droopy shoulder like this accentuates the appearance of a sloppy , almost anti, fit.
post #67 of 85
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lonneker View Post
I think that's pretty helpful for people here to know before they can give you feedback.



Thank you; +1.





Well done; particularly as this seems in line with the OP's wishes.

The Foofed trou is great if you want a look that works for pictures on iGent forums. If you actually want something classical and correct--something that works for someone who walks and is not a manequin--then his trou is too short and should be dismissed. I think the trouser length on the suit is hair too long, but I would have it dry cleaned first and then, if still too long by a touch, have it corrected. Otherwise the suit is very nice.
post #68 of 85
Quote:
Originally Posted by Burton View Post
The Foofed trou is great if you want a look that works for pictures on iGent forums. If you actually want something classical and correct--something that works for someone who walks and is not a manequin--then his trou is too short and should be dismissed. I think the trouser length on the suit is too long but I would have it dry cleaned first and then, if still too long by a touch, have it corrected. Otherwise the suit is very nice.

post #69 of 85
Quote:
Originally Posted by Burton View Post
The Foofed trou is great if you want a look that works for pictures on iGent forums. If you actually want something classical and correct--something that works for someone who walks and is not a manequin--then his trou is too short and should be dismissed. I think the trouser length on the suit is hair too long, but I would have it dry cleaned first and then, if still too long by a touch, have it corrected. Otherwise the suit is very nice.

What the hell does your dry cleaner do? Dry cleaning a suit doesn't shorten the trousers.
post #70 of 85
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lowndes View Post
What the hell does your dry cleaner do? Dry cleaning a suit doesn't shorten the trousers.


Lowndes, first that just isn't true. One can easily see many men who have taken their suits and trousers to be dry cleaned and seen the very negative effects of poor dry cleaning--most often where they have shrunk clothes. What I have found, and your experience may be different, (but I don't see how it can be) is that when things are cleaned and pressed professionally they will hang differently and the wool will be at its tightest. My point is simple, MTM or bespoke clothing should be pressed before you make a judgment on it. I think this board and many others have perverted men's dress trousers so that zero break is correct and a break is incorrect which is sort of Alice in Wonderland.
post #71 of 85
The suit is not bad at all, just not great. Since you likely paid a middle or the road price and got a better than middle of the road (and way better than the masses) fit, not bad. The pants break is a full break and seeing yours confirms I like a moderate break. But just a matter of taste.

If the shirt is some form of custom, well, they did a bad job. My first shirt from Mytailor, unwashed, unpressed, etc, fit better than yours.

There are many imperfections in your suit, however, and they are one more reason I will likely try true bespoke instead of an itinerant Hong Kong tailor for my next suit. This approach will cost money, however, and your Chan with a few tweaks from a local tailor is a good, likely less expensive alternative.
post #72 of 85
I think Geneva does a great job for me, but as I have noted elsewhere, I had a to eat several shirts to get to perfect (or close). For me it was well worth the time and expense. Others might be really hacked off to pay more than $200 (or $200 x 2 or 3) for shirts that they don't want to wear. I can understand this.

If you know what you want and are willing to stick with them you will end up with an excellent pattern that repays in spades the initial investment if you plan to get a lot of shirts. If you want one order of four and don't intend to come back you might be very unhappy.
post #73 of 85
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post
I think Geneva does a great job for me, but as I have noted elsewhere, I had a to eat several shirts to get to perfect (or close). For me it was well worth the time and expense. Others might be really hacked off to pay more than $200 (or $200 x 2 or 3) for shirts that they don't want to wear. I can understand this.

If you know what you want and are willing to stick with them you will end up with an excellent pattern that repays in spades the initial investment if you plan to get a lot of shirts. If you want one order of four and don't intend to come back you might be very unhappy.

I completely agree with this assessment of Geneva.
post #74 of 85
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post
I think Geneva does a great job for me, but as I have noted elsewhere, I had a to eat several shirts to get to perfect (or close). For me it was well worth the time and expense. Others might be really hacked off to pay more than $200 (or $200 x 2 or 3) for shirts that they don't want to wear. I can understand this.

If you know what you want and are willing to stick with them you will end up with an excellent pattern that repays in spades the initial investment if you plan to get a lot of shirts. If you want one order of four and don't intend to come back you might be very unhappy.

+100 - a very good summary of the Geneva 'experience'.
post #75 of 85
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post
I think Geneva does a great job for me, but as I have noted elsewhere, I had a to eat several shirts to get to perfect (or close). For me it was well worth the time and expense. Others might be really hacked off to pay more than $200 (or $200 x 2 or 3) for shirts that they don't want to wear. I can understand this.

.

Please explain why this is the case with a highly skilled artisan. Did you have a specific shirt fit in mind going in, and the "several shirts" reflections of the attempts to get there?

If Geneva did not produce a shirt to your liking such that you need to further refine it, I would think he should eat the cost of the refinement.
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